Within the region of Andalusia in the mountains about an hour west of Marbella, Spain, the ancient city of Ronda sits sedately above a deep river gorge, cobbled and flowered. Three ancient bridges, including the New Bridge (Puente Nuevo) constructed between 1751 and 1793, span the Guadalevín River through the El Tajo canyon. Settled by wandering Celts in the 6th century B.C., followed by Phoenicians and Romans, Ronda later became a beloved destination of authors Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway due to its old, ornate bullring, Plaza de Toros de Ronda. Today, the attached museum contains a broad collection of embellished saddlery and ceremonial clothing, including the distinctive manoleto shoes worn by matadors and named for Manolete, a famous matador who was eventually bested by a bull.

A study in contrasts, Ronda’s Plaza Duquesa de Parcent — edged by three churches — served as the original location for the bloody bullfights. High balconies above the patterned stone courtyard provided a protective viewing space for esteemed members of the clergy, who watched the gruesome spectacle from a safe distance.

Less controversial and equally historic, the town’s Museo del Bandolero houses a fascinating history of the bandoleros who once roamed the mountain roads surrounding Ronda. Lining the walls are old newspaper stories, wanted posters, artifacts, documents, weapons and graphic photographs detailing the results of being captured. There’s also a comprehensive collection of the film and literature that sprang up around the more famous of the bandolero brethren. Some of them — most notably Diego Corriente, José María El Tempranillo and the notorious El Tragabuches — were widely regarded as romantic figures for their efforts at social reformation.