MY HUSBAND AND I SCRAMBLE up a steep, rocky trail, following hand-lettered signs pointing us toward the Great Wall. At first, there’s not much to see except dense foliage, but coming around a bend, we catch our first glimpse of this world-famous structure. It is massive. At the top we are alone, with only the sound of birds and the rustle of wind in the trees for company. The view of the wall snaking relentlessly through the mountains to the hazy, distant horizon is intoxicating.
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