Poor Pui. Little did our Thai tour guide, Khattiya Thongjeen — who goes by the nickname Pui — know she would be constantly readjusting the agenda to meet the demands of our diverse and particular group of travelers. When we 12 landed in Phuket, some wanted to see local attractions, some were anxious to try sports activities on the Andaman Sea and some were insistent about seeing spots hit by the tsunami.

Upbeat and friendly Pui didn’t miss a beat. Even after the December disaster, she, like hundreds of other southern Thai people, was an example of the power of the human spirit. The locals are understanding of visitors’ curiosity and are eager to please those willing to come back so soon. Pui showed us with her grace and optimism that this southern paradise, although damaged, was ready for us. Especially Phuket.

The island, just off the mainland, is one of the most popular beach destinations in the world and is responsible for a large chunk of Thailand’s tourism dollars. Even post-tsunami, it remains an ideal place to kick back for some well-earned R&R, with a steamy tropical climate, crystalline beaches, hospitable locals and a wide array of resorts and restaurants.

Thailand is known for its abundance of spas and nowhere are they more evident than in Phuket, where nearly every village and resort property offers inexpensive bodywork in the form of traditional Thai massage and other treatments. When not being kneaded and stroked with exotic oils, visitors and locals paddle off in kayaks into the Andaman Sea to maneuver around limestone outcroppings and small islands, or take the local boats out to scuba dive along the famed coral reefs here. Although some reefs were damaged during December’s tsunami, most were unharmed. Those that did suffer damage are being delicately tended by volunteers.

Many travelers were hesitant to visit Phuket after the tsunami in light of media broadcasts that gave the impression the entire island had been devastated. The reality is that few beaches were actually destroyed. True, Patong Beach, one of the most popular among tourists, and nearby Kamala did suffer serious damage, but these and others are quickly recovering. Tourists are returning, though not yet to the point where there are overwhelming crowds. The island feels as if it has reverted to the sleepy undiscovered beach destination it was just 20 years ago, when avant-garde travelers shopped, dined and lounged in relative seclusion.

Phuket’s well-established infrastructure and a flurry of rebuilding in the past nine months have enabled most businesses to return to full operation. The Thai government, in an effort to avoid another disaster of this magnitude, has made a commitment to create a safer beach environment, focusing on the redevelopment of natural landscapes and on physical infrastructures with the strength to withstand tsunamis and other natural forces. It is on a mission to bring tourism business — one of the strongest industries in Thailand — back to full force in record time. And the people, like Pui, are making it happen with their resilient and welcoming spirit.

LODGING

Phuket offers the fullest range of accommodations imaginable, and most of them at extremely low prices — many are currently discounting their rates by 50 percent. Beach locations are ideal, the most popular being those along the western shores. Nearly all the resort properties feature private beaches, pools, spas and multiple restaurants. Patong Beach properties have traditionally been first choice for those who crave the nightlife scene. Although some are still in the rebuilding phase, a number of others are in full swing and offering exceptional deals. There are a few luxury properties worth considering (Amanpuri, J.W. Marriott) in the north, not far from Phuket International Airport (HKT), as well as loads of excellent four-star properties throughout the island.

KATATHANI THANI RESORT & SPA

Manicured lawns, three pools that c urve along the beach and two low-rise buildings housing 265 rooms sit alongside quiet Kata Noi Beach, the quieter of two beaches in this small and inviting village. Located on the southwest shores of Phuket, Katathani also has a full spa, shops, health club, dive shop and other unique options such as Thai cooking classes.
KATATHANI THANI RESORT & SPA
14 Kata Noi Road
Karon, Muang
tel 66 76 330 124, fax 66 76 330 127
http://www.katathani.com

AMANPURI

Known worldwide as the most deluxe and luxurious property on the island, Amanpuri is offering rate reductions of 50 percent through October — an unprecedented move, according to its parent company, Amanresorts. This was the very first of the company’s many upscale resorts, opening in 1988. Much closer to the airport (10 miles) than are the hotels in the south, Amanpuri offers guests PADI-accredited dive programs, golf, tennis, a full spa and an array of other activities. Thai-style pavilions and villas sit amid a coconut grove. It was here at Amanpuri that local staff recognized the signs of potential disaster and ensured all their guests were off the beach before the tsunami struck.
AMANPURI
118/1 Moo 3, Srisoonthorn Road
Pansea Beach, Chengthalay
tel 66 76 324 333, fax 66 76 324 100
http://www.amanresorts.com

THE TUBKAAK KRABI

To vary your stay in southern Thailand, consider venturing to a nearby province, such as Krabi (on the mainland, just east of Phuket), where massive craggy limestone formations jut out from the land and the sea. The Tubkaak, a new property on a secluded beach, can be a challenge to find, but it’s worth the effort. Forty-four rooms in Thai cottages are clustered around the pool and beach, which looks out over the Hong Islands. Rooms are impeccably designed in Thai style with outdoor soaking tubs, platform beds and orchids strategically placed throughout. The open-air restaurant, Arundina, is situated on platforms over a water lily–filled lotus pond.
THE TUBKAAK KRABI
123 Moo 3, Tubkaak Beach
Tumbol Nongtalay, Amphur Muang
Krabi 81000
tel 66 75 628 400, fax 66 75 628 499
http://www.tubkaakresort.com

DINING

France and Italy may be the only other countries in the world besides Thailand where food is so closely tied to national identity. The Thai people, known for their warm hospitality, are extremely proud of their cuisine — and not just the pad thai. Stir-fries, curries and an abundance of seafood, meat and produce make their meals varied and interesting. The spices tend to run much hotter than they do in North American Thai restaurants, so inquire before indulging. Exotic tropical fruits are exceptionally sweet and delicious. Beachside tables that pop up unexpectedly can sometimes mean discovering a sensational dining experience that marries the senses of sight and taste in new ways. In addition to traditional Thai restaurants, Phuket is packed with eateries serving international cuisine, from Russian to Italian to French — all scattered throughout the island.

KAN EANG

Along the southeastern shore of Phuket, not far from the temple of Wat Chalong, Kan Eang is situated along the shores of Chalong Beach. This seafood restaurant with outdoor seating overlooks the pier and a bevy of small fishing boats. Many kinds of Thai dishes are served, but the fresh-caught seafood is most memorable.
KAN EANG
44/1 Viset Road
Chalong Bay
tel 66 76 381 212

BAAN RIM PA

Its dramatic setting — a cliff overlooking Patong Beach — makes Baan Rim Pa one of Phuket’s most popular and critically acclaimed dining choices. This award-winning restaurant, set in a Thai teak house, serves everything from fresh lobster to fried prawns and nuts wrapped in an egg net.
BAAN RIM PA
100/7 Kalim Beach Road
Kathu, Patong
tel 66 76 340 789
http://www.baanrimpa.com

ORIENTAL SPOON

On quiet Surin Beach on the west side of Phuket — not far from Amanpuri — the Twinpalms Phuket resort is home to Oriental Spoon, a chic two-level restaurant with its own entrance and martini bar. This highly acclaimed spot serves up a variety of seafood — both Thai and Western style — as well as an extensive buffet brunch (approximately $21) featuring seafood, pasta, sushi, roasted meats and 16 imported cheeses.
ORIENTAL SPOON
106/46 Moo 3, Su rin Beach Road
Cherng Talay, Thalang
tel 66 76 316 577
http://www.twinpalms-phuket.com

SPA CULTURE

Although there is a plethora of spas across Phuket, including those on site at most hotels, some of the independent spots can provide the most authentic Thai experience. Thai massage, the gentle stretching of the body (client is fully clothed in loose cotton), is the most popular treatment, but a variety of body and skin procedures are available, including scrubs, wraps and baths.

SUKHO@THAI SPA

I was at this unassuming spa in Phuket Town, enjoying a traditional Thai massage, when I experienced my first tropical storm: crashing thunder, torrential downpours and brief power outages. I couldn’t have timed it better. By the time my two-hour treatment was complete, the storm had passed — and even if it hadn’t, I would have been too relaxed to care. The spa recently finished a renovation (complete with ozone-treated Jacuzzi), bringing the total number of treatment rooms to 22 — all air-conditioned. Most resorts, including those listed in the lodging section above, also feature spas on the property, many of them upscale and all reasonably priced.
SUKHO@THAI SPA
100/497-499 Soi 11
Srisuchart Grand View Village
Chalermprakiat Road, Muang
tel 66 76 261 111, fax 66 76 261 633
http://www.sukkospa.com

DIVERSIONS

For those who choose not to lounge poolside or unwind at the spa, there are loads of activities in Phuket — from snorkeling and diving to amusement parks and elephant rides. Most cities throughout Thailand, and most of the islands, also have temples for prayer and reflection. Most concierges on the island can book activities through a variety of legitimate operators at no extra charge.

Elephant safaris: There are a number of locations on the island where visitors can trek through Phuket’s tropical habitat atop one of the world’s most astonishing creatures. Treks vary from an hour to a half-day. Guests are perched two to an elephant in a somewhat rickety seat called a howdah, while a young Thai mahout (elephant trainer) sits atop the animal’s wide neck, directing it by applying pressure with his feet to the back of its ears. Many companies offering elephant safaris also offer ox-cart rides, Jeep safaris and Thai boxing and Thai cooking classes.

Sea kayaking in Phang-nga Bay: Famous for its tidal sea caves and hongs (narrow caves mysteriously open to the sky), Phangnga Bay is best explored by paddling through its natural limestone formations accompanied by an English-speaking guide. Many companies offer these “soft” adventures, as well as tours by speedboat, and most depart from Ao Po in the northeast corner of Phuket. Guests are transported via ferry and, once in the bay, commence their kayaking around rocky islands (including James Bond Island) and marine national parks. Kayaking options range from half-day excursions to seven- or eight-day camping adventures, and could prove to be the most memorable experience of a trip to southern Thailand.

Reflection and meditation: Phuket is home to a number of wats, or Buddhist temples, some small and inconspicuous, others colorful and striking. Phuket’s best-known, oldest and largest temple is Wat Chalong, near the southern end of the island.The bright red temple and surrounding buildings are where a famous abbot who locals believe had mystical powers once resided. Wat Chalong is also said to house a holy relic: a piece of one of Buddha’s bones, brought from Sri Lanka. Visitors remove their shoes before entering the temple and offer small gifts of lotus flowers, gold leaf or incense before meditating. Other Phuket temples include Wat Phra Ton and Wat Naka.

INFO TO GO

Bangkok International Airport (BKK) is located 16 miles north of the city of Bangkok. It serves the city and surrounding areas, and acts as a principal hub for Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia. The airport has two international terminals and a domestic terminal, serving more than 80 airlines. Thai Airways International (http://www.thaiairways.com or 800 426 5204) recently added a direct nonstop flight from New York (JFK) to Bangkok, with a flight time of just over 17 hours. The connecting flight to Phuket (HKT) is about an hour and a half. For more information, visit http://www.tourismthailand.org or www.phukettourist.com.