FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Udaipur: Palatial Panorma

by Gtrav

Nov 1, 2005
2005 / November 2005

On my last day in Udaipur, I stood very still in the middle of the dry Lake Pichola and listened. I heard a pigeon flapping overhead, and the faint sound of bells dangling from the necks of elephants and camels as they ambled slowly along the lakebed. Even the buzz of bees was audible from where I stood.

The lake, in the Rajasthan province in northwest India, seemed a great amphitheater where perception and reality blurred. Sound bounced from rock to shore and back to settle lightly in my ears; the hawk I heard to my left was actually approaching on my right, and the men I anticipated coming from behind turned the corner around Jagmandir Island in front of me.

What I experienced was quite different from the Udaipur of just a few years ago, when the cityscape was reflected in the clear and still waters of a very full lake — Udaipur’s greatest draw, its romantic hook. But five years of scant monsoons has given way to an unexpected new beauty.

Lake Pichola is the site of the legendary founding of Udaipur. According to legend, a few years before the Mughal Emperor Akbar conquered Chittorgarh (the original capital of Mewar, in Rajasthan), Maharana Udai Singh II was hunting in the Aravalli Hills when he happened upon an old wise man meditating near the lake. The sage told the maharana to build a new capital city on that very spot — a less vulnerable location, surrounded by lakes and hills. After Chittorgarh was sacked, Udai Singh heeded the old man’s words and founded Udaipur on the banks of Lake Pichola in 1568. Though the maharana died in 1572, his son Pratap successfully defended the new city against subsequent Mughal aggression.

After years of staving off the Mughals, Udaipur was then assaulted by the Marathas. Yet, unlike other kingdoms of Rajasthan, the rulers of the Mewar dynasty refused to fall under the thumb of foreign invaders. As a result, the Mewar dynasty is the oldest ruling dynasty in world history — ruling for more than a millennium. British intervention in the early 19th century brought an end to battles and bloodshed, while Udaipur managed to maintain its monarchy under British protection. In 1947, however, when India gained its independence from Britain, Mewar rule came to an end as it surrendered its sovereignty to what is now India’s centralized government.

The many palaces in Udaipur are also an important piece of the city’s identity. On the shore of Lake Pichola rests the City Palace, where the current maharana resides. This is the largest palace in Rajasthan, a land replete with extravagant palaces. The complex was first built by Udai Singh II, and it has since grown into a large maze with additions ordered by various other maharanas. And overlooking all, resting on a hilltop high above, is the Monsoon Palace. Built in the late 19th century but now deserted, it is well worth a visit for the views it provides, particularly at sunset.

Set firmly in rock on Lake Pichola’s floor are three manmade islands, two of which bear the weight of the Jagmandir and Jagniwas palaces. Built by the celebrated Maharana Karan Singh and Maharana Jagat Singh I, both palaces were meant to “float” in the water. Yet even with no water in the lake, from my vantage point standing in the lakebed they were still majestic. It is believed that Jagmandir Palace was an inspiration for the Taj Mahal, though today it is used primarily as a venue for weddings and other private functions. Jagniwas Palace was built in 1743 as a summer home for Jagat Singh I. It was converted into the Lake Palace hotel by Maharana Bhagwat Singh in the 1960s and was featured in the James Bond film Octopussy. The much smaller, third island, known as Arsi Vilas, was built by Maharana Arsi Singh so he could watch the sunset from the very center of the lake.

Modern-day Udaipur, like much of India, can be filthy and chaotic. For me, it was initially difficult to maneuver. As a foreigner I was accosted constantly by the numerous persistent rickshaw wallahs (men), who insisted I would prefer a ride to the City Palace Museum, though I was perfectly fine walking. Or to the Crystal Gallery at the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, though I had already seen the impressive collection of Osler’s crystal. I was also finagled by a boy at Jagdish Temple (the biggest and most central Hindu temple in the city, honoring the god Vishnu). He insisted I pay him to retrieve my shoes, which I had to remove before entering the temple grounds. An elephant wallah, while riding his charge, followed me down a crowded, narrow street — past a meandering cow, a line of donkeys bearing rubble in canvas sacks, women carrying large wicker bowls on their heads, and a puff of smoke discharged by a motor bike — fiercely demanding payment for the pictures I took of his elephant.

Despite these minor difficulties, it was still amazing to see what pride the people of Udaipur have in their art and religion, two facets of Indian identity that are impossible to separate. During my stay at the Lake Palace, manager Saji Joseph relayed a sentiment that seemed central to the Indian way of thinking.

“It would be so easy to stay in these fancy hotels and never see the real India,” he said. “Every convenience is at your fingertips here, even Wi-Fi. But the old city is beautiful.”

He was, of course, right. The paintings vendors display throughout the old city, which is a center for arts and crafts, are vibrant with deep, rich tones of green, red, blue and gold. The wooden figurines of elephants, peacocks and Hindu gods are intricately and delicately sculpted. Udaipur is home to ornate temples honoring Hindu gods. And the scent of jasmine and hibiscus being strung by women in vending stalls is so strong it overpowers even the most unpleasant smells.

As I stood in the lakebed, embracing the sights and sounds bouncing around me, appreciating the dry lake that many find regrettable, I remembered something Joseph told me about an astrologer who had been consulted about the discouraging monsoon seasons.

“He claims heavy rains will definitely come this year, but they will be late,” Joseph said. “I don’t know if I believe such things, but still, you never know.”

The day I left the rains indeed came, and the Lake Palace was once again able to live up to its name. The last time the lake was dry was in 1972. It may well be another 33 years before anyone can enjoy the marvels of the empty Lake Pichola as I did.

Until then, however, nature has restored Udaipur to its original glory.

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Explore Excursions

#globility

Insta Feed
Daily
Jan 17, 2025

Michelin-Starred Chef Rolls Out New Menu at Albert Hotel in Fredericksburg, Texas

MICHELIN-starred Chef Michael Fojtasek, whose accolades include three times as a James Beard finalist for Best Chef: Southwest, introduced his seasonal menu at The Restaurant at Albert Hotel. Local ranchers, farmers and food artisans representing the Texas Hill Country region are showcased in dishes including Raw Gulf tuna with grilled kabocha, benne seed, black butter and fumet; red snapper with smoked trout roe and fennel fumet; and peach-blackberry crostata with crème fraîche whip.

United Airlines First to Purchase Sustainable Aviation Fuel for ORD

Chicago O’Hare International Airport will soon receive sustainable aviation fuel, all thanks to United Airlines, which became the first airline to purchase SAF for use at the airport, one of the largest in the United States. Neste, a producer of SAF, will provide up to 1 million gallons of its Neste MY Sustainable Aviation Fuel. The first supply arrived in August.

Daily
Jan 17, 2025

Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Goes Big for Valentine’s Day

This Valentine’s Day, skip the traditional gift and give the gift of travel and lifelong memories with a romantic getaway to Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. Thanks to its beautiful weather, delicious dining options, stunning scenery and relaxing wellness offerings, this property offers a one-of-a-kind escape for couples.

Daily
Jan 17, 2025

Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort Unveils Newly Refurbished Guestrooms

Following a four-week renovation, Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort recently unveiled its newly refurbished guestrooms, furthering the resort’s commitment to offer one of the most luxurious guest experiences on the island. Next up, the resort will introduce a new Kids and Teens Club and state-of-the-art Technogym fitness facility later in 2025.

Sailing the Ionian Sea: Explore Greece’s Nautical Gems

Sailing the Ionian Sea is an enchanting way to experience Greece's breathtaking islands and pristine waters. Known for its favorable winds, calm seas and stunning landscapes, the Ionian Sea offers a paradise for both experienced sailors and those looking to explore for the first time. From lively beaches to secluded bays, these waters have something for every traveler seeking adventure and relaxation.

Daily
Jan 16, 2025

Get a Glimpse Into One of the Busiest Transportation Stations in Europe: Roma Termini

Rome's Termini Station is a true icon of modern Roman architecture, serving as the city's largest rail station and one of Europe's major transit centers. One of the key aspects of the structure’s recent transformation was opening up the view toward the sixth century B.C. Servian Walls from the main hall, restoring visitors' visual connection to this historical legacy.

eFlyer News
Jan 15, 2025

Uber to Be Exclusive Rideshare, Delivery Partner of Delta Air Lines

Beginning this spring, Uber will be the exclusive rideshare and delivery partner of Delta Air Lines. This new, multiyear partnership allows SkyMiles members to earn miles when riding with Uber and ordering with Uber Eats throughout the United States.

Madrid: The Charm of an Authentic City

They say Madrid is in vogue for many reasons: its lifestyle, its heritage, its cuisine and all of its new attractions. And it’s true, because Madrid is on the radar of travelers looking for a cutting-edge destination that still holds onto its essence. Join us as we explore its charms.

eFlyer News
Jan 15, 2025

Mandarin Oriental to Sign 2 European Hotels

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group announced the expansion of two iconic hotels: Conservatorium Hotel in Amsterdam and Hôtel Lutetia in Paris. Following the completion of the transaction with relevant Works Councils, both properties will be rebranded, with Hôtel Lutetia transforming to Mandarin Oriental Lutetia, Paris, and Conservatorium Hotel changing to Mandarin Oriental Conservatorium, Amsterdam.