It’s gotta be Haleiwa Joe’s signature calorie-laden and oh-so-sinful burnt-caramel-macadamia dessert. That’s the only way to explain why portly Hurley (Jorge Garcia) — a lead character on the hit ABC television series Lost — hasn’t lost an ounce despite being stranded on a mysterious tropical island with the other survivors of doomed Oceanic Air Flight 815. Hurley must be the only survivor to have figured out that they’re not lost at all — they’re on the North Shore of Oahu, steps from an Arnold Palmer–designed golf course and a world-class resort, and just 20 minutes (heck, he must hitch a ride) from the harbor-front Haleiwa Joe’s (http://www.haleiwajoes.com) and its extensive menu of freshly caught seafood, succulent steaks and mouth-watering desserts.

I visited the Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu in mid-September, completely unaware that its expansive waterfront landscape — much of which has been left in pristine natural condition, criss-crossed by a miles-long network of walking trails — does double duty as a filming location for Lost. Think back to an early episode last season when Jack (Matthew Fox), Charlie (Dominic Monaghan) and Kate (Evangeline Lilly) run like crazy through the jungle after a mysterious monster (are we ever going to find out what’s up with that?) snatches the pilot of the downed flight and summarily does away with him. Turtle Bay. Or when Walt (Malcolm David Kelley) is trapped inside a banyan tree as a giant polar bear lurks outside. Turtle Bay. Or when Charlie is strung up in a tree by mystery man Ethan (William Mapother) until Kate arrives to save the day and cut him down. Turtle Bay.

In this tight-knit community just 45 minutes — but a world away — from the traffic jams and hustle and bustle of Honolulu, “star-spotting” has become a hobby of sorts. (While I’m happy for the actors, I have to admit I was disappointed to learn that my visit coincided with this year’s Emmy Awards presentation in Los Angeles, so the cast and crew were off-island, basking in their victory.) I did, however, discover that Haleiwa Joe’s is one of Terry O’Brien’s (the actor who portrays Locke) regular hangouts. In fact, Haleiwa Joe’s general manager Chris Pirrone told me lots of the Lost cast mix and mingle with locals at the harbor-front restaurant’s friendly bar. The reason? Simple, according to Pirrone. Most of the cast members are looking for peace and quiet when they’re not in front the camera, and they know they’ll find just that at Haleiwa Joe’s, where hero worship is much more focused on the North Shore’s championship surfers than on television celebrities.

So it’s no coincidence that one of the world’s best surfing schools has several locations on Oahu, including one at Turtle Bay. Noted for their finesse with beginners and advanced surfers alike, the instructors at Hans Hedemann Surf School Hawaii (http://www.hhsurf.com) strive to make surfing an exciting, memorable, fun and successful experience — whether you’re a seasoned surfer looking for local knowledge about Hawaii’s breaks or a brand-new surfer ready to catch that first wave. The school boasts a team of lifeguard- and CPR-trained instructors who guarantee even the newest surfer will be up and riding by the end of a two-hour lesson. A physical ailment kept me out of the water on the day of my scheduled two-hour semiprivate lesson. I did, however, catch up with my almost surf-mate later that afternoon. A absolute beginner, he told me he’d had the time of his life, raved about the instructor, and was looking forward to getting back out in the surf the following day.

More at home driving a golf ball than catching a wave? You’re in luck. Nestled among acres of ironwood trees and unspoiled wetlands, Turtle Bay’s two golf courses combine to offer 36 championship holes amid excellent year-round conditions. The resort’s Palmer Course hosts the annual PGA C hampions Tour’s Turtle Bay Championship and the LPGA SBS Open, while the Fazio Course (designed by George Fazio) offers duffers a memorable golf experience. Check out the resort’s golf academy for individual instruction, golf school and a junior golf program for students ages 4 to 17.

Turtle Bay is named for the honu, the common green sea turtles that once frequented these waters and laid their eggs in the sand along the bay’s shoreline. Although the turtles are not as abundant as they once were, they can still be seen surfacing for air on calmer days, especially in the early mornings when they come to feed. Since Turtle Bay is the reigning queen of the North Shore — and the only full-service hotel and resort in the area — it’s easy to spend an entire stay exploring the beaches, swimming pool, restaurants, golf courses, spa facilities, walking trails, horseback riding trails and more, but the surrounding landscape is so beautiful — with lush valley gulches, fields of pineapple, coffee groves, expansive beaches and the fortress-like Waianae Mountains — it would be a shame to miss it all.

The North Shore’s “biggest little town,” Haleiwa, was first established by two Protestant missionaries, the Rev. John Emerson and wife Ursula Sophia, at Waialua Bay in 1832. The Emersons’ Queen Liliuokalani Church still stands, as does the structure of their original adobe home, located across from Matsumoto’s Shave Ice. (Queen Liliuokalani, who had her choice of locations on Oahu, chose Haleiwa as her special place for bathing and retreats from the royal palace.) In 1899, the development of the Haleiwa Hotel and the extension of the Oahu Railroad led to growth in Haleiwa’s business community. More and more businesses were set up in front of family buildings, with living quarters in the back. The half-day trip by train was considered long, and kept the small plantation town a quiet getaway. In 1984, Haleiwa was designated a state historic, cultural and scenic district. It is also part of America’s Main Street program for historic preservation and economic vitalization. A worthwhile destination in itself, Haleiwa beckons travelers to see all that it has to offer: history, unique shops, white sand beaches, surf, ocean sports and a variety of eateries.

Waimea Bay Beach Park, an idyllic bay beach, heralds the start of the most famous stretch of the North Shore, extending to the peninsula at Turtle Bay Resort. Ironwood groves and tropical countryside ensconce some of the world’s finest white-sand beaches and surf breaks on this unspoiled coast. Sunset Beach, Banzai Pipeline, Ehukai and Three Tables are just a few of the legendary spots. In the winter, waves of 30 feet or more break offshore. Roadside fruit stands and local vendors line the main artery of Kamehameha Highway. From December to April, humpback whales can be spotted offshore as they make their annual migration from the north.

Minutes away from the resort is the historic sugar-plantation town of Kahuku. For eight decades, sugar was the livelihood for the Portuguese, Japanese and Filipino immigrants who came to Oahu to work the plantation. Kahuku is also home to the 42-acre Polynesian Cultural Center (http://www.polynesia.com), which has an IMAX theater and three restaurants in addition to its famous interactive experience of village life in Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, New Zealand, the Marquesas, Fiji and Samoa.

In nearby Kaaawa Valley, Kualoa Ranch (http://www.kualoa.com) — located on what was once one of the most sacred places on Oahu — is a 4,000-acre working ranch offering a variety of outdoor activities, educational programs and scenic tours including horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking and trolley rides. A boat takes visitors across an 800-year-old Hawaiian fishpond to Secret Island, where they can enjoy snorkeling or windsurfing.

Waimea Valley Audubon Center () is another popular destination among visitors and locals alike. Strolling the 1,800-acre historic nature pa rk, surrounded by rare and endangered Hawaiian flora and fauna, is a tranquil experience. The center features hundreds of acres of walking paths and hiking trails, world-class botanical gardens, rich archaeological sites and the 45-foot-high Waihi Falls (aka Waimea Falls). In addition, the center boasts more than 5,000 species of documented tropical plants and a bird sanctuary.

But if you simply must get lost, head for the maze at Dole Plantation (http://www.dole-plantation.com). First operated as a fruit stand beginning in 1950, Dole Plantation and its popular “Pineapple Experience” opened to the public in 1989. These days, more than 1 million visitors each year stop by to tour the plantation and try their navigational skills in the Pineapple Garden Maze, named the World’s Largest Maze in the 2001 Guinness Book of World Records.

LODGING

TURTLE BAY RESORT
Set on 880 acres of Hawaiian paradise on Oahu’s scenic North Shore, all of Turtle Bay Resort’s 401 guestrooms and 42 luxury beach cottages offer breathtaking ocean views. World-class golf and tennis facilities are set against a backdrop of sun-drenched beaches, seaside pools and spectacular island beauty. Additional amenities include a full-service spa, surf school, horseback riding and 12 miles of oceanfront hiking trails. $$$-$$$$
TURTLE BAY RESORT
57-091 Kamehameha Highway
Kahuku, Oahu
tel 808 293 6000, fax 808 294 9147
http://www.turtlebayresort.com

NORTH SHORE VACATION HOMES
These four beachfront homes, nestled on lush acres between Sunset Beach and Turtle Bay Resort, are perfect for weddings, reunions and other groups of up to 28 persons. All homes include spacious lanais with sweeping ocean and sunset views. $ varies
NORTH SHORE VACATION HOMES
Team Real Estate
66-250 Kamehameha Highway, Suite D103
Haleiwa, Oahu
tel 800 982 8602 or 808 637 3507
http://www.teamrealestate.com

DINING

MATSUMOTO’S SHAVE ICE

Established in 1951, Matsumoto’s Shave Ice snow cones are an island tradition. Try pineapple, coconut, li hing, watermelon, lychee or banana. The store also sells souvenirs and snacks. Famous visitors include actor Tom Hanks, figure skater Kristi Yamaguchi, and retired Japanese sumo wrestler Konishiki. $
MATSUMOTO’S SHAVE ICE
66-087 Kamehameha Highway
Haleiwa, Oahu
tel 808 637 4827

ROMY’S SHRIMP

One of the most well-known among the North Shore’s ubiquitous “shrimp shacks,” Romy’s is owned and operated by Romy Aguinaldo and his daughter, Kaylene Arneson. Romy’s prides itself on cultivating and preparing the freshest possible shrimp, right on its own shrimp farm. Look for the red shrimp stand on the right side of the road on the way to Turtle Bay. $
ROMY’S SHRIMP
56-781 Kamehameha Highway
Kahuku, Oahu
tel 808 232 2202

21 DEGREES NORTH

Passing through the entry featuring a waterfall and tropical flora and fauna, you know you’re in for a memorable dining experience. 21 Degrees North’s floor-to-ceiling windows offer breathtaking views of Turtle Bay. Time it right and you’ll witness a stunning sunset while enjoying contemporary island cuisine with a Pacific Rim influence. (I heartily recommend the tasting menu.) $$$-$$$$
21 DEGREES NORTH
Turtle Bay Resort
57-091 Kamehameha Highway
Kahuku, Oahu
tel 808 293 8811, fax 808 293 9147
http://www.turtlebayresort.com

Beach Baby

Oahu’s North Shore is a beach lover’s nirvana.
Kuilima Cove: A sandy inlet at Turtle Bay Resort. One of the best swimming and snorkeling areas on the North Shore.
Kawela Bay: A picture-perfect, uncrowded sandy beach, it’s a hidden treasure with safe swimming year-round. Public access only from the ocean or by a short hike from Turtle Bay Resort.
Sunset Beach: The site of professional surfing contests in the winter. Surf here occasionally reaches heights of 20 feet or more.
Ehukai Beach: Best view of the famous “Banzai Pipeline,” where you’ll see surfers disappear inside the barrel of a wave and emerge seconds later. Also a site for professional body-boarding contests in the winter.
Pupukea Beach Park: A beautiful cove and tidal pools in a marine reserve.
Sharks Cove: Explore the knee-deep tide pools and snorkel in the cove, which is named for its shape and not its inhabitants.
Waimea Bay: The largest surfable waves in the world — heights of 30 feet or more are not uncommon during the winter months. In the summer, the swimming is ideal in this bay’s calm turquoise waters.

INFO TO GO

Honolulu International Airport (HNL) is located four miles west of Honolulu and about a one-hour drive from Oahu’s North Shore. Parking is available in a multilevel garage and also in open-air lots. Your best bet for getting around Oahu — and the North Shore — is to rent a car. Most major car rental companies have locations at or near the airport.