The first time I saw Toronto, the signature landmark was absent. It is no easy feat to hide the 1,815-foot CN Tower, but that afternoon as I drove along Lakeshore Boulevard a low blanket of clouds had settled over the city. The only indication of the world’s tallest manmade structure was a seemingly inconsequential concrete stump.

The next few days were cloudless, so there was no possibility of missing the tower. Setting aside my lifelong fear of heights, I ascended to the viewing deck to take in the full panorama of the city and its environs. Again — this time because I was standing in it — the tower was absent from the view, and the view was better for it.

The CN Tower’s thrusting profile is at odds with the city it dominates. It represents the ultimate municipal boast — the brashest way for a place to say “look at me.” Yet, as I got to know it, I found Toronto to be remarkably modest and unassuming for a city of its size (4.2 million inhabitants) and economic stature (it’s the third most important financial center in North America after New York and Chicago).

Strategically located within the Great Lakes region, Toronto has been a natural hub for millennia. The city’s name is thought to derive from an indigenous Huron word meaning “meeting place,” a role that Toronto continues to fulfill. A quarter of Canada’s total population lives within 100 miles of Toronto, while 60 percent of the population of the United States resides less than an hour’s flight away.

It is not surprising that the majority of immigrants to Canada choose to settle in this attractive city on the shore of Lake Ontario, arriving at a rate of around 80,000 each year. It is estimated that 50 percent of Toronto residents — representing well over 100 ethnic groups — were born outside Canada. The city is home to eight times as many Chinese speakers as French speakers, which is remarkable in a country in which French is the joint official language.

The city’s economy is as diverse as its population. Key sectors include aerospace (the industry is projected to grow by $10 billion in the next decade), telecommunications, automotive manufacture (it’s the largest production center in North America after Detroit), biotechnology (the city has the second largest biomedical industry in the world), retail and financial services (Toronto’s stock exchange, TSX, is the fastest growing in the world).

At the CN Tower, I threw caution to the wind and strode confidently onto a glass-floor portion of the viewing deck. Then I made the mistake of glancing down. I seemed to be standing in midair 1,122 feet above the ground. My legs turned to jelly; I shuffled off the glass with my eyes closed.

Back at street level, I regained my composure, though each glimpse of the omnipresent tower invariably heralded a fleeting return of vertigo. So for the duration of my stay I drilled myself not to look up. And by doing so, I was able to encounter this friendly city the best way: eye to eye.

LODGING

THE FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK

The moment you enter the spectacularly ornate lobby, you know that this is no ordinary hotel. When it opened in 1929, the Royal York was proclaimed to be “the largest hotel in the British Empire,” one of a string of grand hotels located at key stops along the trans-Canada railroad. Even by today’s standards, it is huge, with 1,365 rooms, yet the service is notably personal. The location is superb, right next to Union Station at the very heart of downtown. The rooms recall the elegance of the golden age, but without compromising on 21st century amenities. $$$-$$$$
THE FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK
100 Front St. W.
tel 416 368 2511, fax 416 368 9040
www.fairmont.com/royalyork

THE METROPOLITAN TORONTO

Located within easy reach of both the Eaton Shopping Centre and the financial district, this sleekly contemporary hotel is a convenient choice for leisure or business. The 426 rooms are a little on the small side, though they are nicely designed and, from the upper floors, offer nice views. The executive suites come with all the state-of-the-art essentials for an office away from the office: broadband Internet, fax machine, laser printer and dual-line telephones with voicemail. And then there are those little luxuries that your office probably doesn’t have: a whirlpool bath and a surround-sound TV and VCR. All in all, the perfect place both to work and unwind. $$
THE METROPOLITAN TORONTO
108 Chestnut St.
tel 416 977 5000, fax 416 977 9513
www.metropolitan.com/toronto

THE GRAND HOTEL AND SUITES

Paramount among this hotel’s unique selling points is the opportunity to take a plunge in a heated whirlpool in the rooftop garden. At night, with the cityscape glittering around you, it’s a fabulous experience, and one of the many surprises to be found within this centrally located hotel. The 117 rooms and 60 suites are extremely spacious, and are equipped with everything from high-speed Internet access to DVD players. At the top of the accommodation range are the two-story Ambassador Suites and the deluxe Jacuzzi Suites. Given the quality, the room rates are surprisingly modest, making this luxury hotel one of the best value-for-money options in the city. $$-$$$$
THE GRAND HOTEL AND SUITES
225 Jarvis St.
tel 416 863 9000, fax 416 863 1100
www.grandhoteltoronto.com

HÔTEL LE GERMAIN TORONTO

Boutique hotels are all a matter of taste. If cool European-style refinement is your thing, then this is the place for you. By Toronto standards, the rooms are quite large, and are appointed with all manner of hightech toys, including flat-screen TVs and Bose sound systems. The bathrooms are similarly state-of-the-art, and each features a glass-sided shower cubicle entirely visible from the bedroom (if you’re sharing a room, bear that in mind). The Apartment Suite comes with its own boardroom, with seating for eight people — ideal if you’d prefer to conduct your business meetings in the city on “home turf.” $$$$
HÔTEL LE GERMAIN TORONTO
30 Mercer St.
tel 416 345 9500, fax 416 345 9501
www.germaintoronto.com

DINING

With more than 7,000 restaurants from which to choose, you’re not going to go hungry in Toronto. It’s not surprising, given the city’s cultural diversity, you can “eat your way around the world” here. Until last May, a local company,Taste of the World, offered excellent culinary walking tours. Sadly, the company is no more, but the itineraries are still listed on its Web site (www.torontowalksbikes.com), and provide a blueprint for do-it-yourself introductory tours of the city’s culinary heritage, taking in anything from Chinese supermarkets to Greek pastry shops, to Lebanese cafes serving Arabian coffee.

NORTH 44
Many dining aficionados consider this to be the top restaurant in the city. Happily, it doesn’t rest on its laurels. The décor, the service and the food are all first rate, and justify a splurge: this is the ideal venue for a special occasion or for impressing your business associates. The menu draws on European and Asian influences and includes a recommended fine wine — available by the glass — for every dish. Reservations are required; closed on Sundays. $$$$
NORTH 44
2537 Yonge St.
tel 416 487 4897
www.north44restaurant.com

BISTRO 990

The favorite downtown eatery for a host of visiting movie stars (including Toronto native Kiefer Sutherland, lead actor on the hit television series “24”), this cavernous restaurant provides the somnolent ambience of southern France just a short walk north of Toronto’s dynamic financial district. Under the direction of executive chef Franco Belvedere, the menu is centered on Mediterranean cuisine, though in keeping with Toronto’s multiculturalism you’ll also find inventive dishes incorporating Asian influences. Reservations are required. $$-$$$
BISTRO 990
990 Bay St.
tel 416 921 9990
www.bistro990.net

HAPPY SEVEN
When in Toronto, eat Chinese. As any gourmand knows, the very best Chinese food is rarely found in the upscale downtown establishments. You need to root around in Chinatown and find out where the Chinese themselves prefer to eat — places such as Happy Seven, which makes up for its rather kitsch décor with the authenticity of its Szechuan specialties. Portions are extremely generous, and are excellent value for money. $
HAPPY SEVEN
358 Spadina Ave.
tel 416 971 9820

SIGHTSEEING

Even if you only do it “because it’s there,” you have to do the CN Tower (www.cntower.ca). It’s the city’s most popular tourist attraction, and the 360-degree view from the 1,465-foot-high Sky Pod is spectacular (it requires a separate ticket from the one that takes you up to the Look Out viewing deck, which is located at a mere 1,122 feet). Head up the tower at the start of your Toronto visit and it will help you to get your bearings.

Vibrant Toronto looms large on the Canadian landscape.

After the absolute heights of the tower, PATH (www.city.toronto.on.ca/path) takes you to the other extreme: a 16-mile-long connecting network of underground pedestrian tunnels linking more than 50 downtown buildings. It is particularly welcome during the sub-zero winter months. Think of it as a city under the city — more than 1,200 shops and services occupy the tunnel system. For first-timers, PATH can be a confusing maze, but you soon get the hang of it. Color-coded signs help you retain a sense of direction: red = south; orange = west; blue = north; yellow = east.

For history buffs, the old garrison of Fort York (www.fortyork.ca) is worth a visit. Built in 1793, it was attacked by American troops during the War of 1812. In the summer, volunteers in historic military uniform perform daily drills, bringing the place to life. Sports fans won’t want to miss the Hockey Hall of Fame (www.hhof.com), which celebrates Canada’s national obsession. Interactive displays allow you to test your ice hockey skills. There’s no shortage of things to do after nightfall. Toronto has the world’s third-ranked theater scene after New York and London — there’s always a worthwhile show to catch while you’re here. To find out what’s on, visit www.hotoronto.com.

SHOPPING

Toronto offers the full range, from the most expensive international boutiques to wonderfully eclectic bric-a-brac stores. If your time’s short, then the top single shopping venue is the Eaton Centre (www.torontoeatoncentre.com), which houses 285 shops under a spectacular vaulted glass roof. Queen Street West is full of trendy boutiques, secondhand book stores and galleries.

AIRPORT UPDATE

Toronto Pearson International Airport is Canada’s busiest airport, handling 25.9 million passengers in 2002. Established in 1939, Pearson Airport handles more than 1,200 arrivals and departures every day; last year, that added up to more than 383,000 aircraft movements in all. By the year 2020, the number of travelers passing through the airport’s gates is expected to reach 50 million. The airport is benefiting from a $4.4 billion, 10-year redevelopment program that will transform it into one of the most advanced hubs in the world. The first phase of the new terminal opened in 2004. Once complete, the new terminal will have used enough concrete to make two CN Towers and enough steel to make three and a half Eiffel Towers. For complete up-to-date information, visit www.gtaa.com.

INFO TO GO

Most international flights arrive at Toronto Pearson International Airport (YYZ), which has routes to 43 U.S. cities and 104 overseas destinations. The airport is located 17 miles from downtown Toronto. Taxi fares from the airport to the city are fixed at around $32. From the city to the airport it is possible to negotiate a lower fare with a city cab. Alternatively, the 24-hour Airport Express (www.torontoairportexpress.com) provides a regular shuttle service, stopping at several major hotels for $14.25 one-way or $20 return.