Regardless of what time it is, Edinburgh’s horizon is dominated by its spectacular castle, permanently at rest above the city on a massive slab of ancient volcanic rock. From April 1–Sept. 30, you can tour the castle’s deep nooks and mysterious crannies until 6 p.m.

With 2013 dubbed the Year of Natural Scotland, the focus is on the outdoors and nature. Get a taste at the Royal Highland Show June 20–23 and the Edinburgh International Festival Aug. 9–Sept. 1, featuring indoor and outdoor theater and music and dance performances that culminate in a stunning display of fireworks over the castle.

For entertainment spilling well into the wee hours, the city’s infamous Festival Fringe, billed as the largest arts festival on the planet, kicks off Aug. 2, with music, comedy, magic and theatrical performances by top names and plenty of talented unknowns at venues throughout town. It wraps up on Aug. 26, overlapping with the International Book Festival Aug. 10–26.

Music fans flock to the city July 19–28 for the Edinburgh International Jazz & Blues Festival, while devotees of cutting-edge film gather June 19–30 for the International Film Festival, this year featuring a retrospective of the works of French director Jean Grémillon.

Though there’s no shortage of excellent restaurants, the Michelin-starred Number One at The Balmoral, Edinburgh’s famed hotel address, always delivers outstanding modern British cuisine. Save room for dessert — the Valrhona chocolate cremeux, served with a dollop of banana ice cream, is not to be missed. After dinner, walk through the softly lit streets to one of Edinburgh’s excellent whiskey bars. Always a great choice: the award-winning Whiski Bar, located on the Royal Mile, with 300 malt whiskeys and blends and live Scottish music every night of the week. Whiski Rooms, its newly opened sister property on the Mound near the castle, offers tastings.

For club action, The Hive is a local favorite. This underground collection of caves-turned music-rooms is open until 3 a.m. If you’re looking for the best live local musical talent, you’ll find it at Henry’s Cellar Bar; for a high-energy DJ experience, the tiki-themed Lola Lo specializes in dance music, rum cocktails and Polynesian décor. LGBT visitors flock to The Citrus Club, with themed nights; high-energy CC Blooms, with a cabaret night; and Blue Moon Café, with its adjoining Deep Blue club. Catering expressly to lesbians, hip Planet Out keeps Fanta Orange soda on tap, thanks to its popularity as a mixer.

Running from this November through March 2014, the Royal Collection Trust presents the special exhibition “High Spirits: The Comic Art of Thomas Rowlandson” at The Queen’s Gallery, Palace of Holyroodhouse. Private evening showings and talks highlighting Georgian England’s most famous caricaturist can be scheduled for small groups.