THE LUXURIANT SLOPES OF MAUI are a million shades of green. I’m deep within the western side of the island, immersed in the lush, brilliant emeralds of Iao Valley State Park, where the soaring, 2,250-foot-tall Iao Needle points toward the heavens. Long ago, this naturally formed rock pinnacle served as an altar to ancient indigenous peoples. Now, hikers like my husband and me stroll the paths, making unique, individual connections to this landscape.

Hawai’ian legends tell the tale of how the demigod Maui lassoed the sun and tamed it, ensuring there would always be adequate daylight for planting and gathering crops. For visitors in search of a little rest and relaxation, that means plenty of time to enjoy the island’s beauty.

We’ve deliberately timed this visit to coincide with the return of the humpback whales that spend part of the year in the waters surrounding Hawai’i. In the morning, we head out to participate in a whale-watching cruise with Pacific Whale Foundation, a research and education group that offers a variety of seasonal eco tours departing from Ma’alaea Harbor north of the old whaling town of Lahaina.

In the company of a marine naturalist and a dozen or so other whale watchers, we board an eco-friendly catamaran and head out into the channel separating Maui from the island of Lana’i. In less than 10 minutes, the naturalist points out a mother humpback whale and her young calf, barely a hundred yards from the bow. He explains the young whale was born after the pod’s recent return from its 3,500-mile annual migration from near the Alaskan coast. For two hours we watch the baby cavort in the smooth waters while two adult males do their best to impress the mother.

Despite a number of acrobatic and graceful leaps above the surface of the sea and some fierce jostling between them, the males prove unable to capture the mother whale’s interest — evidence, it seems, that despite the island’s reputation for romance, not all its residents can be seduced.

We leave the whales to work out their own relationship issues. Following a long swim in the warm sea and a change of clothes, it’s time to shift gears and head for the legendary Hana Highway.

Unfurling before us like a length of tangled ribbon, the road slips away from the small town of Pā’ia toward Hana along Maui’s eastern shore. It’s still early in the day, and the light retains a soft quality that plays out in shadows cresting the highway.

Someone with far more energy than I’m ever likely to possess once documented more than 600 zigs and zags along the highway separating Pā’ia and Hana, punctuated by more than 50 narrow bridges. As the road becomes Highway 360, the snaking curves become more pronounced.

Hana Highway Bridge at Upper Waikani Falls © CHRIS CURTIS | DREAMSTIME.COM

On the ocean side of the highway, an exit leads to the historic Kaulanapueo Church, and we pull in to take a peek. The building dates to 1853, an architectural relic from what was once a strong missionary presence here. Just beyond Kailua town, a series of small bridges passes through the Waikamoi Bamboo Forest. The parking lot is surprisingly deserted, and we leave the car for a brief hike on the loop trail that starts near the picnic area.

Back on the road an hour later, we take note of the Halfway to Hana sign near the Garden of Eden Arboretum & Botanical Garden. There’s a fresh banana bread stand near the entrance, and we linger over our selection before adding a loaf of still-warm bread to our picnic bag. The smiling woman at the stand who wraps it for us tells us this local treat is made from small, sweet apple bananas cultivated on the island.

About four miles before reaching Hana town, we exit the main road and follow the turnoff signs leading to Kahanu Garden, a National Tropical Botanical Garden. The extensive grounds, with a forest of breadfruit trees and collections of Polynesian plants, encompass 500 acres, all of it breathtaking.

The grounds are also the location of the Hale o Pi’ilani Heiau, identified by archaeologists as the site of one of the largest sacred ruins in the entire Pacific. It was once the home of Maui’s royal Pi’ilani family, whose extraordinary achievements during the 16th century included the construction of a paved trail that completely encircled the island.

The next day we keep moving — and this time the horsepower doesn’t come from our rental car engine but from actual horses at Ironwood Ranch in the small town of Napili. We ride through pineapple fields and into a low-lying valley with a misty, rainforest quality, listening to the soft rustle of hooves among grass and a serenade of tropical birdsong.

Napili Bay © STEVENGAERTNER | DREAMSTIME.COM

The day wraps up with a moonlight cruise on a catamaran from Trilogy Excursions. We relax on the deck as the sails billow with a soft, steady wind, carrying the boat into the deeper water at the island’s edge. The night fills with sounds of water splashing against the sides of the boat, and we sip fruity cocktails as the stars slowly reveal themselves above the cliffs along the shore, while the Hawai’ian moon floats among them.

By the time we dock, I’ve devised a plan that involves running away without telling anyone how to find us. We’ll live stress-free beneath the palm trees beside the sea, with fresh mango and papaya for dinner every night.

The sweet scent of frangipani blossoms fills the air as we stroll away from the dock, and reality begins to wiggle into my dream. I simply don’t know if I have the necessary skills or patience to trade shells to keep my shoe collection up to date. And if I know my husband, he’s going to insist on a refrigerator. It is, after all, really the only practical way to keep Champagne satisfactorily chilled.

Maui Info to Go

Commercial flights from the U.S. mainland and other islands in Hawai’i arrive at Kahului Airport, about three miles east of Kahului town between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. Transportation includes taxi, Maui Bus and Maui Airport Shuttle Service (one way or roundtrip) operated by Roberts Hawaii, with multiple destinations island-wide. The shuttle service does not require reservations, and tickets can be purchased at the shuttle service counter in the baggage claim area from 5:30 a.m. until the last flight of the day. Maui Bus operates multiple routes every 90 minutes from marked stops outside the arrivals area at the terminal. Most major car rental agencies can be booked; locate the rental car building on the walkway just beyond baggage claim.

Where to Stay in Maui

KA’ANAPALI BEACH HOTEL With 11 acres of tropical gardens and an enviable position on Kā’anapali Beach, this traditional property boasts a whaleshaped pool and cultural activities for guests: hula lessons, garden walks, Hawai’ian language sessions, ukulele classes and nightly hula performances. 2525 Kā’anapali Parkway, Lahaina $$$$

THE PLANTATION INN A short walk from the harbor and Lahaina’s famous Front Street shopping district, this tropical, luxury bed-and-breakfast is adults-only, with an outdoor pool and historic plantation architecture. 174 Lahainaluna Road, Lahaina $$$

THE RITZ-CARLTON, KAPALUA On a tranquil stretch of seacoast in Kapalua, this luxury destination hotel boasts two golf courses; an indulgent spa with traditional therapies; six dining venues; and 463 guestrooms, suites and Club Level accommodations. 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Kapalua $$$$

Restaurants in Maui

ALOHA MIXED PLATE Newly renovated, this Mala Wharf institution is a local favorite, with a Poke of the Day choice and fresh vegetables from the restaurant’s own farm. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. 1285 Front St., Lahaina $$

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE Family-owned for more than 40 years, this Maui institution has a great old Hawai’i tiki-torch vibe and a menu of fresh catch delivered daily by local fishermen. 799 Poho Place, Pāʻia $$

THE MILL HOUSE Along with fresh and farm-driven menu selections by Executive Chef Jeff Scheer, diners can drink in organic, sugarcane craft cocktails and breathtaking views of the West Maui Mountains over lunch or dinner. 1670 Honoapiʻilani Highway, Waikapu $$$