FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Fukuoka City: Rising Star

Jul 1, 2006
2006 / June-July 2006

“Gateway to Asia” is the new black, this century’s civic equivalent of the “next Silicon Valley” or “booming biotech corridor.” From Bangkok to Beijing, it’s the title every region wants; the designation every city of size is vying to earn. When the construction dust has cleared and the airport expansions finally are finished, the title may go to Fukuoka City.

Home to 1.4 million people, Fukuoka is located on Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost island. The mini-metropolis is already a winner in the convenience and congeniality competitions. It repeatedly was voted “Most Livable City in Asia” by (now-defunct) Asia Week magazine, and has received an award from the United Nations Commission for Human Settlement for building an effective partnership between UNCHS and private corporations in Japan and working toward the goal of “Cities Without Slums.”

“Everyone loves it here,” said Nick Szasz, publisher of Fukuoka Now, a multilingual monthly. “Locals, Japanese, expats … it’s a great place to live.”

It’s a great place to do business as well. An important commercial and cultural center, the city is the capital of Fukuoka Prefecture. It stands at Hakata Bay, on the northwestern shore of the island, across the Korea Strait. Hakata Port is the busiest passenger port in the country, with almost half a million passengers a year crossing the strait to Busan. A lot of cargo comes through as well: Factories in the region export electronics, semiconductors, rubber, textiles and more. Fukuoka’s seven largest companies ring up more than $20 billion annually and large-scale expositions bring in visitors from around the globe.

But it’s not all business. Sometimes referred to as the “Liverpool of Japan,” arts and architecture flourish here as well, and many successful musical artists and authors hail from the city on Hakata Bay. The entire prefecture is known for exquisite porcelain and delicate dolls that command top dollar from connoisseurs in every corner of the world.

And then there’s the food. Fukuoka’s proximity to other countries has made it a culinary crossroads. Many national favorites had their start here on the southern shore. Mentaiko, a spicy fish-egg delicacy, was inspired by Korea’s kimchee and is now indulged in all over the country. Green tea, the national drink, made its debut in Fukuoka. Seeds from the plant, which is native to China’s Yunnan province, were first cultivated at Hakata’s Shofukuji, the first Zen temple in Japan. Today, the preparation and consumption of the healthy leaf is an essential part of Japanese culture. Manju rice cakes, marshmallows and mizutaki hotpot also took hold here before being enjoyed elsewhere in Japan. The coastal location provides an abundance of seafood, and Fukuoka is renowned for the quality (and the reasonable price) of its sushi, sashimi and other snacks from the sea.

Historic yet hip, large yet livable, Fukuoka City is a solid contender for the “Gateway to Asia” title. With convenient transportation, a friendly and energetic population, and a healthy business climate, it’s definitely a winner.


LODGING

GRAND HYATT FUKUOKA

Location is everything, and the Grand Hyatt’s prominent positioning adjoining Hakata’s hip Canal City complex couldn’t be more convenient. Choose Western luxury or Eastern opulence in one of the 370 rooms and suites, some of which are outfitted in Japanese tatami style. A private roof garden provides a serene setting on the Grand Club level, while three restaurants cater to every taste. $$
GRAND HYATT FUKUOKA
1-2-82 Sumiyoshi, Hakata-ku,
tel 9 2282 1234, fax 9 2282 2817
fukuoka.grand.hyatt.com

JAL RESORT SEAHAWK HOTEL

Located right on Hakata Bay, this architecturally intriguing property offers some of the best views in the city and convenient access to the Yahoo! Japan Dome and such maritime attractions as Seaside Momochi and Marizon Pier. The largest hotel on Kyushu, the Seahawk’s 1,052 rooms and suites offer every amenity. $$
JAL RESORT SEAHAWK HOTEL
2-2-3 Jigyohama, Chuo-ku,
tel 9 2844 8111, fax 9 2844 7887
www.hawkstown.com

NEW OTANI

The Japanese royal family stays here while visiting Fukuoka. Need we say more? The New Otani boasts 389 flawlessly appointed rooms, 10 suites, and eight restaurants, right in the heart of the city. $$$
NEW OTANI
1-1-2 Watanabe-Dori, Chuo-ku
tel 9 2714 1111, fax 9 2715 5658


DINING

There may be no better place to sample local specialties than at one of Fukuoka’s yatai, or mobile food stalls. An institution in the city, they number more than 200 — far outstripping any other city in Japan. These cozy counters located throughout the city, with the highest concentration on Yatai-Dori Street near the wharves, open at sunset and don’t shutter until 3 or 4 a.m. They’re the place to go for ramen, yakitori, and almost any other tasty treat you can think of. The yatai’s shoulder-to-shoulder (most stalls hold 15 diners or less) environs also encourage casual conversations with strangers — a rarity in Japan’s structured society. And unlike many Asian food stalls that only offer one item, yatai usually have a variety of foods, ready to be washed down with an icy cold beer or a stiff shot of shochu. Another Fukuoka first, this high-octane alcoholic beverage is usually distilled from grains, (buckwheat is a favorite) but also can be made from brown sugar or yams. Kampai!

SUSHI DEN

On Yatai-Dori but miles away from the stalls in terms of ambience, Kyushu native Toshi Kizaki’s second location (the first is in Denver) offers flashingly fresh sashimi and other dishes in a stylish, English-spoken gem. Specialties are grilled black cod with duck and eggplant, and California rolls.Try original and innovative dishes such as new-style sashimi — thinly sliced white fish, salad dressing, ginger, garnish, and topped with hot olive oil. Grilled black cod served with duck and eggplant is also recommended, as are the rolls, Californian and others. $$$
SUSHI DEN
1-9-22 Minato, Chuo-ku
tel 9 2738 5510

BISTROT A VIN BAL MUSETTE

A touch of France in Fukuoka, with flawlessly executed cuisine in an intimate wine bar under a popular Daimyo cafe bearing the same name. From appetizers to dessert, the feeling is pure Parisian. $$
BISTROT A VIN BAL MUSETTE
1-14-13 Daimyo, Chuo-ku
tel 9 2736 5055


DIVERSIONS

After a late night’s indulgence, you might choose to purify yourself at an onsen. Volcanic Kyushu is blessed with an abundance of hot springs, but many are located in the countryside. Shiroyama Onsen (Yakuin 1-1-1, Chuo-ku, tel 9 2781 2211) is conveniently situated in the center of Fukuoka, next to Yakuin Station. This public bath is divided into men’s, ladies’ and family sections. The naturally heated water that feeds the soaking pools comes from a borehole drilled more than a mile into the Earth’s crust. The onsen is new and sparklingly clean. In addition to pools, saunas and steam rooms, Shiroyama has towels, lockers, and well-appointed dressing rooms — everything needed for a relaxing soak. Afterward, enjoy a massage or relax with a beer in the VIP room.

A clean mind is the perfect accompaniment for a clean body, and Fukuoka also offers purification for the soul. Kyoto it isn’t, but the city and surrounding area are home to numerous lovely temples and shrines. If you’ve seen Shofukuji, go through heaven and hell at Tochoji Temple (2-4 Gokushomachi, tel 9 2291 4459), while walking the labyrinth beneath Japan’s largest seated wooden Buddha, which measures 33 feet. Or relax in the shade of a 1,000-year-old gingko tree at lovely Kushida (1 Kamikawabata-machi, tel 9 2291 2951) shrine, Fukuoka’s oldest. In the heart of old Hakata, the shrine was founded in 757 A.D. Check out the anchor stones recovered from the harbor — remnants of the doomed Mongolian invasion fleet. Legend has it that the invaders were repelled by Kami-Kaze, “wind of the gods” which blows fiercely in Hakata Bay.

For a more modern reflection on Fukuoka, take in the bird’s-eye view at Fukuoka Tower (814-0001, 2-3-26 Momochihama, Sawaraku, tel 9 2822 4656, www.fukuokatower.co.jp), right on that windy bay. The tallest coastal tower in Japan, the 767-foot-tall tower is covered with 8,000 mirrors and anchors the city’s skyline. Enjoying a cocktail in the lounge just below the observation deck is a great way to top off an evening.

The view from Sky Dream Fukuoka (2-12-43 Odo, Nishi-ku, tel 9 2895 5511, www.evergreenmarinoa.com), the giant Ferris wheel of Evergreen Marinoa, is also spectacular. Second in size only to London’s Eye, each revolution takes 20 minutes to complete.

Those whose lives revolve around shopping will find that Fukuoka doesn’t disappoint in this area, either. Retail features prominently in the city’s commercial mix, and new centers such as Canal City Hakata (tel 9 2263 2121, www.canalcityco.jp/english/) and Hakata Riverain (3-1 Simokawabata-machi, Hakata-ku, tel 9 2282 1300, www.riverain.co.jp/english) offer shopping, dining, and entertainment options galore.


INFO TO GO

Compact Fukuoka is negotiated easily by bus or subway. Tenjin and Hakata Stations are the primary hubs. Located just 10 minutes from downtown, Fukuoka Airport (FUK) is easily accessible by taxi, bus or subway. Tokyo and Fukuoka are connected by Japan Railways’ highspeed Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen. Ocean Tokyu Ferry operates daily ferries between Tokyo (Tokyo Ferry Terminal on Odaiba) and Kitakyushu (Shin-Moji Port). The one-way journey takes 34 hours. International service to Pusan is available by jetfoil.

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