We’d been friends for nearly 20 years, but this was our first time traveling together — unless you count Girl Scout beach and ski trips (we fancied ourselves Troop Beverly Hills back then). But it had been about as many years since our last Scout excursion when we prepared for four days in Madrid.

We spent the days leading up to our departure emailing back and forth the activities and sights we deemed most interesting. For the most part, our lists were in sync, but Jill was fighting a losing battle trying to convince me to row a boat in Retiro Park.

We were in agreement that we wanted to experience the major hallmarks of Spanish culture — fútbol; the age-old tradition of bullfighting; the great works of art by Goya, Velázquez and El Greco; history; tapas; wines; flamenco and more — in our short visit. We were going to be busy.

Intermittent, severe thunderstorms derailed our afternoon plans on our first day, but we started our tour of Madrid with a visit to the mecca of art, Museo Nacional del Prado. Here we had our first taste of the Spanish greats. We stood in front of Diego Velázquez’s Las Meninas and recalled elementary school art classes spent studying this very work of art.

Las Ventas Bullring © Kimberly Krol

The next day brought the sun, and we resumed our planned itinerary. Absolutely a divisive activity, bullfighting played a major role in the history of Spain, and Las Ventas Bullring still stands as a symbol of Spanish culture. We took one of the offered self-guided audio tours. Standing in the middle of the bullring, I could feel the ghosts of the glories and triumphs of those who had achieved past greatness there; I could also understand the pain and agony most certainly experienced where I was standing.

To know Jill and me is to know we love to eat. Some of our fondest memories come from nights spent catching up over long dinners, the bill compared to that one time our appetites resulted in serious pain for our wallets. Our time in Spain would be no different. Both of us quickly came to embrace indulgent meals sampling tapas and tasting good wines. I especially was a fan of mid-afternoon coffee and sweets breaks.

Churros and hot chocolate © Kimberly Krol

Our food exploits took us all over. For traditional tapas, we visited Taberna Almendro in the Latin Quarter; Casa Labra for a bit of cod; Taberna Malaspina for Manchego; La Bardemcilla de Santa Ana (owned by actor Javier Bardem) for a brush with celebrity. When we craved sweets, it was off to Chocolateria San Ginés for the decadent churros and hot chocolate and to La Mallorquina, one of the most — if not the most — popular bakeries in the city. We sought out recommendations for Madrid’s best, most authentic paella, which we sampled at El Pato Mudo. And for libations, we stopped by El Madroño, which serves madroño liqueur. The madroño tree only grows in Spain and is immortalized in the Puerta del Sol statue of a bear reaching for the fruit of this same tree. Also emblazoned on the Madrid coat of arms, the statue stands as a symbol of the city. The tree fruit is most closely compared to a strawberry. I was a fan of the statue and of the shot of liqueur served in a chocolate-coated cone.

Without a doubt, foodies must visit Mercado de San Miguel. Historically, the area has been the site of a marketplace since 1916. After years of disrepair and years of renovation, the market reopened in 2009. The modern-day incarnation is full of gourmet food stands — every delicacy one could imagine from sweet to savory. Wine stalls and seating areas complete the experience; the No. 1 tourist attraction in the city is also popular with locals and busy day or night.

Continuing our quest to discover what makes Madrileños tick, our next morning started with a visit to Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, home to the Real Madrid fútbol team, the richest fútbol club in the world in terms of revenue. Die-hard fans surrounded us as we wandered through the trophy hall, locker room, field and press conference area. I could liken the experience to rabid baseball fans behind the scenes at their favorite team’s stadium. As an outsider, the energy was contagious; as a sports fan, the excitement understandable.

It was time for more art, this time modern. Finding our way from the metro station, we made a right down what appeared to be an alley to the striking glass entrance of the Reina Sofia, holding court over a square of tiny cafés and restaurants. Striking in its contrasts to the illustrious Prado, the Reina Sofia felt more open, more light. Artwork took up less space on the walls and multimedia installations filled entire galleries. Here it was the Picassos that captivated our attention.

We found ourselves hopelessly lost trying to locate Café de Chinitas later that evening. Once we entered the Flemish tablao flamenco restaurant in the basement of a 17th-century palace, it felt like we discovered traditional Spain … off the beaten path and authentic. Less flashy, one could tell it was genuine and we were sampling a legacy — from the atmosphere to the dancing, singing and décor. From old to new, we toasted our trip with a nightcap at The Roof at ME Madrid Reina Victoria. From the top of the former historic Gran Hotel Reina Victoria — renovated by hip hotel group Meliá — the entire city is visible.

On our last day, there was no itinerary. We savored the opportunity to explore the city by foot and celebrate the exterior of the city we had spent days discovering from the interior of sights and monuments. We perused a street market off the Plaza de España as we made our way to the Debod Temple. The temple, built to honor the Egyptian gods Isis and Amon, was gifted to Madrid in 1972, one of four Egyptian temples located outside of their original home. We shopped, wandering from Puerta del Sol, navigating each of the “rays” (streets) branching off the plaza, to Plaza Mayor.

We ended the day in Retiro Park, again stopping for a closer look at the local artisan wares and street entertainers. Strollers, cyclists, runners and skateboarders whizzed by as we navigated the massive — and scenic — park. The lake, the focal point of the park, is magnificent to gaze upon; the stone steps, pillars and statues centered on the northern side of the water so picturesque they seem unreal, as though painted by one of the artists whose work adorns the walls of the city museums.

It was here I happily indulged Jill’s whim to row a boat.

Where to Stay in Madrid

Hotel Ritz Madrid For art lovers, this hotel’s location, overlooking the famed Museo Nacional del Prado, can’t be beat. The 1910 Baroque palace is also known for its afternoon tea. Plaza de la Lealtad 5 $$$$

Occidental Miguel Ángel Conveniently located for business or pleasure, club-level guests enjoy complimentary breakfast and afternoon snacks; a full-sized gym is an added bonus. Miguel Ángel 29-31 $$$$

Silken Hotel Puerta América Madrid A total of 19 architects contributed to this hotel. Each floor is unique in its design, bringing different materials, colors and techniques under one roof. Av. de América 41 $$$

Restaurants in Madrid

Botín A bit cliché, but it’s not often one can say one ate in the Guinness Book of World Records-designated oldest restaurant. Calle de las Cuchilleros 17 $$$

El Jardin del InterContinental The intimate courtyard setting at Chef José Luque’s international restaurant is the perfect spot for alfresco dining in the city; live music and a popular Sunday brunch are draws. InterContinental Madrid, Paseo de la Castellana 49 $$$$

El Pato Mudo A secret hideaway, this is where the locals go to experience traditional paella. Quaint and intimate; pair your pick with a selection of Spanish wines. Calle de Costanilla de Los Ángeles 8 $$

Madrid Info to Go

Madrid-Barajas Airport (MAD) is about a 30-minute trip from city center, no matter which method of transportation you choose: bus, metro or taxi. The bus and metro are approximately €2 (about $2.60); a cab ride costs around €30 (about $39). Madrid’s metro system is easy to use, clean and convenient for navigating the city on your own. Tickets range from single ride to unlimited day passes.

Read more about Spanish tapas here.