Vienna wears the present century lightly, never letting its modern conveniences mask the loveliness of its past. A city of Gothic, Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture; narrow cobblestone streets; and broad pedestrian plazas, it begs to be walked. And walk I did.

First, to the Naschmarkt, dating back to the 1600s. Spread along Linke Wienzeile, this open-air market runs in a straight line past some 120 shops and dozens of restaurants and cafés. For foods to carry home, stop at Gegenbauer with its 70 varieties of vinegars; Sauerkraut Leo; and merchants selling cheese, chutneys, marmalades, coffee, teas, packets of spices and chocolates.

A short distance down Naschmarkt, turn left, cross to Schleifmühlgasse and discover the new scene that has emerged in the dozen years since the area’s mills closed.

At No. 15A, FLO sells superb vintage clothes and accessories dating back to 1880. At No. 17, check out Babette’s Spice & Books for Cooks, a cookbook store/café. Alt Wien Kaffee, at No. 23, roasts on premises and sells 35 varieties of coffee. And across the street, at No. 6, Gabarage offers amazing items made solely from discards: necklaces from the rubber of bicycle tires, vases from bowling balls, totes from old files, chairs from old books — it’s the ultimate in original gifts.

Most of all, experience the soul of Vienna in its cafés. Café Sperl opened in 1880, and owner Rainer Staub, Jr., told me, “Nothing has been changed since.” At Café Phil, we sat on used furniture which, like the coffee, cakes and other foods, can be bought. Café Hawelka’s aura is of an intellectual gathering place. Kleines Café is possibly the smallest, with seven tiny tables. Or find your own café; you can choose from hundreds.

Perhaps you prefer hot chocolate to coffee. The best? Demel, at Kohlmarkt 14, its décor unchanged since the late 19th century.

The best Wiener Schnitzel? Plachuttas Gasthaus zur Oper, at Walfischgasse 5-7.

The best exchange rate? Bankhaus Schelhammer & Schattera, at Goldschmiedgasse 3.

On my last afternoon in Vienna, I went to Café Sacher, home of the original Sachertorte. With a slice of this famous apricot jam-filled chocolate cake — with its thin layer of bittersweet chocolate icing, topped with a chocolate medallion that guarantees it is the original Sachertorte, whipped cream on the side — and a cup of Viennese coffee, I did what every true Viennese café invites one to do. I spent two uninterrupted hours relaxing, people-watching, reading and taking in the spirit, the joy and the essence of old Vienna.

Weblinks

Alt Wien Kaffee

Café Sacher Vienna

Demel Shop

Gegenbauer

Plachuttas Gasthaus zur Oper