When Lee Ehnqvist lets her three children taste her handcrafted cupcakes, she isn’t just an indulgent mother. As one of the bakers at Mormor, a boutique cupcake shop in downtown Helsinki, Ehnqvist is also studying their faces while they eat to see if the kids are enjoying both the flavor and the colorful design on top.
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Our first inkling this would not be just another noisy, fumy ride on a snowmobile was on the way up to the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier, when the Super Jeep ahead of us stalled in knee-deep snow. The second clue came at base camp, where we signed the customary liability waivers and spent half an hour gearing up in boots, coveralls, balaclavas, helmets and insulated gloves. Members of our group took turns snapping photos of each other in our spacesuit getups — goofy, sure, but totally appropriate given the otherworldly nature of the terrain we were about to cover.