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Arrival/Check-In: The cool, modern lobby, infused with the scent of tropical flowers, is a welcome refuge from Borneo’s predictably humid weather, and the three people at the desk couldn’t have been more accommodating. Within minutes they sent me up to my room, which was perfectly lovely — but it was on the street side of the building. I returned to the reception desk. Was there any chance I could switch over to the river view? Yes, hesitation, but then you couldn’t have a king-sized bed — riverside rooms are outfitted with two queens. Since even a single queen-sized bed is more than adequate, within minutes I was moved across the hall to a room overlooking Kuching’s picturesque Sarawak River and the hotel’s namesake, historic whitewashed Fort Margherita, positioned on the far bank.