Lisbon reveals itself in a tangle of lovely layers. Cool creams, warm golden yellows and russet reds mingle in complex patterns, with streets veining inward and outward from a collection of grand plazas and small squares. A closer view exposes enchanting details: colorful azulejo tiles embellishing the sides of buildings and framing doorways and windows, ornamental fountains and leafy parks, and an amalgamation of architectural designs that span centuries.

My maternal grandfather and his family came from this place, and I’m fortunate to have traveled here before. This time, my husband, James, is with me. Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world, and he’s been looking forward to exploring the museums and historic sites. Understandably, he’s a bit confused when I steer him away from the monuments along the riverfront in the Belém District and directly into a small street where one of my favorite bakeries is located. I’m eager to share the city’s multitude of celebrated addresses, but at the moment I’m on a mission — and unlikely to be dissuaded from my search for Portuguese pastry.

One of my enduring obsessions involves Lisbon’s pastéis de Belém, delicate custard tarts best enjoyed warm, with a liberal dusting of cinnamon. Inexorably tied to the city’s history, the tarts were sold by monks as a means of financial survival following the social and political upheaval in 1820. While the tarts can be found in nearly every café, one of the best places to indulge is Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, where they’ve been produced since 1937 with a still-secret recipe that turns out upwards of 10,000 luscious pastries daily.

It’s crowded as usual, with a mix of locals and throngs of tourists on day excursions from the cruise ships docked in the harbor. Still slightly mystified by my insistence on elbowing my way to one of the large, tiled rooms in the back, James follows me to one of the small tables. He has no Portuguese blood, so I forgive his hesitation and order on his behalf, shaking cinnamon over the puckered custard surfaces — and watching with satisfaction as he takes his first bite, his face registering absolute understanding. This, I explain, is history at its delicious best.

Content, I’m ready to wander. Next to the National Archaeological Museum and close by in the Praça do Império is the Monastery of Jerónimos, named in 1983 — along with the nearby Tower of Belém — as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Built, like the tower, in an ornate, marine-heavy, late-Gothic style known as Manueline, construction on the limestone monastery began in 1501 and was completed a full century later. The monks who lived here were handpicked by King Manuel I, who had very specific expectations: They were to spend their days and nights praying for his soul and for the souls of Portugal’s navigators. The king built it to honor Vasco de Gama, who not only spent his last night sheltered here with his crew before embarking on his journey to India, but also now lies at rest in a lavish tomb located beside the entrance.

We make our way through the south portal entrance with its richly carved gables and niches and along the cloisters rimmed with delicate arches. Outside, arm in arm in the warm sunshine, we cross to the waterside promenade next to the Tagus River, pausing atop the intricately tiled mosaic compass beneath the Monument to the Discoveries along the broad, paved walkway. The colossal stone sculpture — depicting a grand sailing caravel manned by King Manuel I, seafarers Vasco de Gama and Magellan, and other vital figures from Portugal’s remarkable era of exploration — juts out over the river. Built to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the passing of Prince Henry the Navigator, it pays tribute to the host of Portuguese explorers who sailed into faraway seas and ports from this very spot, their tall ships propelled by wind along the deep river and into the sea.

Leaving the river and heading inland, we duck off the main thoroughfare. The tram is tempting, but walking in the sunshine proves irresistible. Our path climbs ever upward along uneven stairways and irregular pavements that remain a legacy of the many earthquakes that have visited this place. Along the way, we peek into the Lisbon Cathedral, noted both for its beauty and for being the oldest building in an ancient city. Inside the ornate sacristy, the remains of the city’s patron saint, St. Vincent, rest quietly.

Our destination — St. George’s Castle — slips into sight, and we enter, moving slowly among the ruins and crossing eventually to the crumbling outer wall. This is Lisbon’s oldest district, Alfama. From the castle, the city spreads out below in panoramic glory, a warren of tiered alleys and streets that open suddenly into lovely plazas. Not surprisingly, Alfama’s elevation has made it ideal for positioning several of the city’s most beautiful miradouros, balcony-like terraces that offer wonderful views, with space for relaxing and socializing. We pause at the Miradouro das Portas do Sol, guarded by a statue of St. Vincent. In his arms is a ship with two ravens, Lisbon’s symbol. A legend tells how ravens guarded the saint’s martyred body until he could be interred in consecrated ground.

The tram wins for the return journey to the lower city and delivers us in clanking splendor to the district of Baixa. This is where the city’s heart beats the loudest and where gorgeous neoclassical structures line the streets. We pass Café Nicola — once frequented by the city’s literary notables — and the imposing statue of Dom Pedro IV balanced atop his tall white pillar in Rossio Square and make directly for a marble bench close to the farthest fountain, facing the Teatro Nacional. Water sprays in wide arcs that fall into the surrounding pool, droplets running along the smooth stone skin of the nymphs who lounge against the fountain’s central pillar. The plaza’s paving of small black and white tiles makes an undulating pattern across the expanse, as though perfect waves are rolling away from the fountain’s base.

Traffic hurtles by, swinging around the perimeter of the plaza, all honks and beeps and screeches, and we head along Rua Augusta away from the noise. This is the main commercial area, and the wide, paved pedestrian street is lined with shops and cafés. James has expressed an interest in exploring the new permanent exhibit at MUDE, a museum devoted to modern design and fashion. It’s located near the towering triumphal arch that stands sentinel between the entrance to the street and Comercio Square — which means that after perusing the fascinating museum collection exploring the relationship between design and society, we can go shopping.

Later, carrying a small selection of local goods — including a set of traditional glazed ceramic Portuguese tiles that make up our house number and a belt made of cork that has the suppleness of leather — we walk the short distance to where one of the city’s most impressive funiculars is located. Connecting the Baixa neighborhood to Bairro Alto in the highest part of Lisbon, and known simultaneously as the Santa Justa Elevator and the Elevator of Carmo, it was designed by Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard. Ponsard, as it happens, was an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel, and the iron landmark clearly bears a structural similarity to the famous Parisian edifice.

Near midnight, a taxi takes us to Senhor Vinho, a fado house. No one famous is performing this evening, though the art’s luminaries can often be found in these intimate surroundings. Tonight, accompanied by a lone guitarist, a beautiful fado singer laments of heartbreak and the sea, her voice filling every candlelit corner.

Every city, of course, has its own energy — a signature of scents, sights and sounds as distinct and individual as the history that created it. In Lisbon, this energy is composed of river and sea and tiles, winding streets and lovely buildings, and the memory of brave sailors. The fado singer, her voice rising and falling in the night, manages to capture every element. James glances over, his eyes telling me that though he may not understand the Portuguese words of the sorrowful song, he understands its essence — and with it, the city itself.

Info to Go

Lisbon International Airport (LIS) is less than five miles north of the city, making for easy access via taxi or bus. Expect to pay a 20 percent surcharge for taxi service on weekends and holidays and daily from 9 p.m. to 6 a.m. The city has an excellent metro and tram system, but there is no direct link from the airport. Carris city buses include the airport on multiple routes but only accept passengers with hand luggage and small carry-ons. Passengers with larger or additional luggage must use the Aerobus, which runs between the airport and central city locations every 20 minutes; every half-hour after 9 p.m.

Lodging

Altis Belém Hotel & Spa

Set along the riverfront’s wide promenade, this luxury boutique property has an outstanding spa and excellent dining. Doca do Bom Sucesso $$$–$$$$

Bairo Alto Hotel

The stunning boutique hotel is in a terrific walking location in a plaza named for Portugal’s beloved soldier poet, between Bairro Alto and Chiado. Praça Luis de Camões 2 $$$–$$$$

Corinthia Hotel Lisbon

This elegant hotel overlooking a large nature park in the financial district offers graceful guestrooms plus a tea lounge, spa and solarium. Av. Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro 105 $$$$

Dining

Boca

Rising-star chef Alexandre Silva has won awards for his take on fresh, local ingredients at this trendy spot. Open daily for dinner; reservations advised. Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 87-D $$$

Feitoria

Playing on the flavors of Portugal’s former global colonies, Chef José Cordeiro makes a showplace of this Michelin-starred dining room. Reservations advised. Altis Belém Hotel & Spa, Doca do Bom Sucesso $$$$

Tavares

Touted as the city’s oldest restaurant, this Michelin-starred experience offers traditional Portuguese cuisine in a chandeliered fantasy complete with a gilded, wood-carved ceiling. Reservations advised. Rua da Misericórdia 37 $$$$

Weblinks

Altis Belém Hotel & Spa

Bairro Alto Hotel

Bocca

Corinthia Hotel Lisbon

Feitoria

Lisbon Visitors &Convention Bureau

MUDE Design and Fashion Museum

Monastery of Jerónimos

Senhor Vinho