Begin your tour of downtown Bologna at the Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano (Piazza Santo Stefano, tel 051 225 442). Here, seven distinct chapels and cloisters are linked by courtyards and porticoes to form one meandering complex. This series of beautiful stone structures has evolved over 1,000 years of construction and today is known as the fifth-largest church in the world. Modeled after the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem, the Chiesa del Santo Sepulcro houses the tomb of Saint Petronius, the patron saint of Bologna.

Next head up the Via Castiglione for a refreshing gelato at the Sorbetteria di Castiglione (44 via del Castiglione, 051 233 257). Bologna boasts many gelaterie, but the Bolognese consider this the best. The high traffic through this shop testifies to its quality product and old-fashioned charm. Many of the flavors available here are adaptations of such classic Italian sweets as cassata (creamy milk with candied fruit), stracciatella (chocolate chips) and zabaglione (a dessert of egg yolks, sugar and marsala wine).

Between the Santo Stefano district and the center of town you will find the Mercato di Mezzo, a fresh food market that occupies a network of Roman streets. Via Drapperie, Via Clavature and the surrounding pedestrian alleys are lined from end to end with dramatic displays of produce, cured meats, cheeses, specialty items and seafood. The enthusiasm of the locals as they search for the freshest halibut, the ripest eggplant or the finest mortadella will pique your appetite for the authentic cuisine of the region. By design, the market beckons to all the senses, and the result is an atmosphere that is unexpectedly charged with excitement.

Continuing on toward the center of town, you won’t want to miss the famous Galleria Cavour. Located just off the Piazza Maggiore, the covered gallery houses such high-end boutiques as Emporio Armani, Versace, Bulgari, La Perla, Sergio Rossi and Roberto Cavalli. The list goes on — Cavour has been ranked among the top 10 luxury retail centers in Europe. Italian leather, especially, inspires a cultlike devotion. Uninitiated visitors to Galleria Cavour may well find themselves converted for life. Come here to shop, or just to admire the impeccably well-heeled clientele.

Save the best for last and retrace your steps to emerge on the Piazza Maggiore at nightfall. The illuminated façade of the Basilica di San Petronio flanks the square on one side. The historical Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Re Enzo and Sala Boursa form the other sides and the adjoining Piazza Netuno. Here lies the very heart of Bologna, where many enjoy an evening stroll or meet with friends before heading to their nighttime destinations. One of the most beautiful features here is the 16th century fountain of Neptune. The bronze statues, fashioned by Flemish sculptor Jean de Boulogne, depict the Roman god of the sea encircled by sirens representing the four winds. Take a moment to contemplate these symbols and you likely will feel a sense of satisfaction that the winds delivered you to Bologna.