During my recent stay in Dominica, I spotted indigenous flora and fauna during a kayak ride up the Indian River, marveled at the otherworldly landscape at Red Rock formed by iron-rich lava flow that careened down from the mountainside directly into the sea, and hiked in nearby Cabrits National Park. And I found InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa to be the perfect spot from which to explore the Nature Island.

The sun hadn’t yet set when I arrived, so I was treated to the “wow view” of the Caribbean Sea through large French doors in the sprawling lobby, as well as a refreshing lemongrass and ginger welcome drink, before settling into my room. InterContinental Dominica has 131 rooms, suites and villas, including some accommodations with private pools. My room overlooked the lagoon and included a semi-private plunge pool shared with the room next to me; while this option would be perfect for families or friend groups staying in adjoining rooms, it could be awkward to swim in such close quarters with strangers, especially if you were looking for privacy.

© InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa

Décor is contemporary with a Caribbean touch, and each room has a private terrace or balcony with an ocean or mountain view. Bathrooms have spacious, freestanding bathtubs outfitted with a wooden tray for an iPad or beverage, shower rooms with two shower heads, dual vanities and separate water closets. Hexagonal tiles in shades of blue, dark green and sand evoke the hues of Dominica’s sea, sky, sand and vegetation.

The resort is actually surrounded by Cabrits National Park, which might explain in part why the landscaping here is so incredibly well-integrated. Some of it has been preserved since before the property was built, yet all of it appears to be thoughtfully planned to reflect Dominica’s verdant character. Vines creep up the façades of pool villas, bougainvilleas grow in shocking pink rows, and you may encounter gnarled trunks and branches of trees more than a century old. Bring bug spray as all that plant life attracts pesky mosquitoes — particularly bothersome if you’re staying in a lagoon-facing room.

© InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa

There are technically four pools, including one that’s zero-entry, but the design makes it seem more like one pool that meanders and flows past alfresco Kwéyòl Beach Restaurant & Bar, with tucked-away nooks and shallower areas for lounging, as well as a swim-up bar.

Despite its oceanfront setting, InterContinental Dominica isn’t exactly what you’d consider a “beach resort.” Concrete steps lead to a rocky beach that’s not conducive to swimming. While a dirt path through a line of trees does lead to a sandy beach with some large rocks, you won’t find loungers or umbrellas set up, nor is it wide enough to take a walk.

During my visit, Kwéyòl was undergoing renovations, an upcoming Asian concept wasn’t yet open, and the swim-up bar wasn’t serving its snack menu, which meant if I wanted to dine on property, my only choice was Cabrits Market. Luckily, the menu is dotted with local and Caribbean dishes any time of day. Soups are a particular strong point, including one that purees roasted pumpkin and garlic, while another is cooked with callaloo, basically Caribbean spinach. Jerk chicken with fried plantains had just the right amount of spice (and flavor in spades), Caribbean lobster spent just enough time on the grill to keep it juicy, and the simply pan-seared catch of the day was always a solid choice.

© InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa

The beverage program, on the other hand, could use a little work. Wines by the glass were limited and uninspired, mostly hailing from Australian producer Lindeman, with only two white selections. Cocktails were inconsistent. One day the bartender delivered me a gin-based sip with muddled rosemary, passionfruit and local pain-killing herbs that were fragrant, tangy and delicious. But one evening, the sugary sweet, bright red drink delivered to my table nowhere near resembled a Cosmopolitan in color or taste. It’s worth carving out some time, though, to do a tasting of house-infused rums at Rumfire.

One unequivocal high point is the spa. Treatment rooms are freestanding thatched roof huts, a tepid outdoor Jacuzzi keeps you relaxed and refreshed, and the sauna is equipped with a large window so you can continue to soak in those views as you sweat. It’s not hyperbole to say I had the best facial of my life here, with a lot of glorious hand, foot, neck and scalp massaging while those facial masks, exfoliators and moisturizers did their work. The blissful experience concluded with ice-cold coconut water sipped from the shell.

But wellness here also comes from venturing out into nature. With all that greenery above the surface and the seismic activity below it (scientists predict there’s a greater than 50 percent chance of a volcano erupting here within 100 years), Dominica is indeed alive. Conversations with guests I met during my stay often consisted of the excursion from which we had just returned or where we were headed the following day. If you’re more stirred to lace up your hiking boots and venture out rather than lounge around with a book, the staff at InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa will enthusiastically help plan daily expeditions that show off their distinctive island home.

InterContinental Dominica Cabrits Resort & Spa

Douglas Bay Cabrits National Park
Bellhall Road, Portsmouth, Dominica
tel 1 767 445 1000