In the Étang de Biguglia, a narrow stretch of salty water framed by low shrubs and coastal grasses, a pat of at least 50 flamingos pose in the shallow depths, elegantly indifferent to the presence of nearby humans bearing binoculars. A common haunt for birdwatchers, this northern coastal area of Corsica and its sea pools, along with the island’s large segments of protected parkland, draw a base of visitors keen to embrace the multitude of outdoor activities offered by the superbly varied landscape. Cradled by striking beaches, cliffs and intriguing coastline, the rugged interior includes its own chain of mountains — making Corsica a marvelous destination for pursuits ranging from hiking and kayaking to diving, horseback riding and golf.

Once a part of the Roman Empire, the island has been invaded and occupied by numerous conquerors throughout its long history. Home at various times to Etruscans, Vandals and Visigoths, it came under the power of the Genoese in 1347. The Genoese maintained ownership until the drawn-out Corsican Revolution of 1729 led to its independence 26 years later. Following a relatively brief period of autonomy, it was eventually taken over by France in 1769 and has remained mostly under French dominion ever since — despite a few ownership hiccups during the French Revolution and various other episodes of war. Today, the Genoese influence is still readily apparent in the lyrical Corsican language.

To the south, the Strait of Bonifacio physically separates Corsica from Sardinia. To its east, beyond a section of the Tyrrhenian Sea, lie the small Tuscan island of Elba and the coast of Italy. From Corsica’s northern tip, the Ligurian Sea rolls toward the French coast. All these watery borders translate into one magical word: beaches, played out in variants of alabaster sands, towering cliffs and bird-filled coastal pools. Edging the entire coastline is a series of ancient stone watchtowers — 67 in all — legacies of those long-ago Genoese rulers. Varying in size and shape, the towers served multiple functions, most notably as viewing stations enabling residents to detect approaching pirates and other unwelcome guests.

Among Corsica’s other fascinating stone structures are its collection of burial chambers, called dolmens, and the figures of stone men, or menhirs, which can be found across the island and rank as some of the oldest discovered in Europe. The menhirs, with their austere, expressionless faces, vary in size, often towering more than 12 feet. Some of the dour figures are armed with weapons, thought by archaeologists to reflect that they were constructed during times of unrest.

Riddled with ancient, winding footpaths, Corsica is a walker’s paradise. Divided into four subregions — south, north, west and interior — its 3,300-plus square miles include the vast central Parc Naturel Régional de Corse. The park encompasses the west coast’s Réserve Naturelle de Scandola, now a UNESCO World Heritage site populated by ospreys, shearwaters and other protected species including mouflon (a type of wild sheep) and hundreds of species of rare algae.

The jagged, granite peaks of Monte Cinto, which towers 6,600 feet above the sea, dominate the interior region. Thick forests of conifers cover the slopes of the mountains, which run in an uneven line from northwest to southeast over a full two-thirds of the landscape, with groves of olive and chestnut trees growing at lower elevations.

The historic town of Corte, considered the seat of Corsican culture and history, crowns the interior’s lovely mountain wilderness. It was here
in the 18th century that Corsica’s original constitution was drawn up, and here in the Palais National that the island’s independence was first declared. A solid memento of the island’s past conflicts, the sprawling Citadelle complex, dominated by an ancient castle and soaring nid d’aigle (eagle’s nest) tower, remains a focal point. Today, the various buildings house an art institute and the fascinating collections of the Musée de la Corse. Close to the Citadelle’s entrance is the Place du Poilu, where Napoleon’s father once had a house.

The island’s other main municipalities can be found along the coasts. Sitting just above the Étang de Biguglia at the base of the island’s northeastern thumb-like peninsula is Bastia, the second-largest Corsican town. Delightful in its crumbly splendor and an excellent location for shopping for the island’s distinctive ceramics, the small, colorful port town is easily walkable — though you can board an interesting electric train in the main square near the tourist information office. It meanders through the town and through a short tunnel that runs

beneath the Vieux Port.

Farther up, on the thumb’s tip, is the Sentier des Douaniers, one of the most majestic walking trails on the island. It follows the coast from Macinaggio to Centuri along beaches and through wildflowers, past several of the old Genoese watchtowers. Some of the higher paths traverse the seaside cliffs and provide particularly spectacular views. This northern area is made even lovelier by the profusion of Mediterranean maquis — shrubs and blossoming vegetation known as macchia in Corsican — that grow here in a verdant, fragrant mix of lavender, rockrose, heather, rosemary, myrtle and strawberry trees.

Following the artisan’s trail, or Strada di l’Artigiani, through the rustic villages along the western coast toward Calvi is perhaps the best way to explore the island’s traditional handicrafts. Along the route, you can find handblown glass in Feliceto, pottery in Corbara and sandstone lamps and vases in Occhiatana. In Calvi, Pol Demongeot sells exquisitely handcrafted knives, one of the island’s more interesting crafts given Corsica’s historic connection with the practice of vendetta — blood feuds ending in murder that quite often spanned generations within warring
families. A more enchanting local craft is the making of lovely music boxes, constructed in all sorts of imaginative shapes and tinkling with traditional Corsican tunes. The village of Pigna is renowned for its music box artisans, and wonderful examples of the craft can be found at shops along the narrow, cobbled lanes.

On the toothed and rocky western coast, with its series of deep gulfs, is Ajaccio. The largest town on Corsica, it was the birthplace of the island’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte. This is also the location of the Parc Naturel Regional de Corse, a source of expansive natural beauty. Gorges and canyons, forests of chestnut and laricio pine, and beaches sheltered by fantastic rock formations provide extraordinary scenery. Ancient rock shelters called bergeries, used by shepherds, still dot the landscape. An abundance of paths and hiking trails twist across the land, including the Mare a Mare Centre, a week-long hike that follows a trail from the seashore to the island’s center; and the more daunting GR20, a 124-mile-long path of sometimes intimidating terrain that’s usually tackled in stages.

At the island’s narrow southern tip, the town of Bonifacio looks out over vast limestone cliffs, carved by wind and water, toward the strait and Sardinia. Not far away from the town’s posh summer resorts, peaceful hiking paths and charming villages are easy to find in the Col de Bavella area. Even better, and close to the small towns of Sartene and Levi, are some of Corsica’s most impressive megalithic monuments and menhirs, including the Cauria plateau and the sites at Capula, Renaggiu, Filitosa, Palaggiu and Stantari. Gazing on the stone men’s enigmatic faces, it’s easy to imagine this wild island as it once must have been: fierce and untamed, adored by the wind and water endlessly stroking its shores.

Info To Go

There are no direct flights from the United States via major airlines to Corsica, but connecting flights from numerous European cities arrive at Ajaccio Napoléon Bonaparte/Campo dell’Oro Airport (AJA) and Bastia- Poretta Airport (BIA). Two small airports — Figari Sud Corse (FSC) and Calvi-Sainte-Catherine (CLY) — provide more limited services. Arrival options include car and passenger ferry service from France and Italy; boat lines include Moby Lines and Corsica Ferries. Once there, a train system (laughingly referred to by locals as the TGV, the Train of Great Vibrations) connects the island’s main towns. Renting a car is by far the best way to get around with any efficiency.

Lodging

Grand HôTel De Cala Rosa

This fabulous hotel offers seaside
luxury with mountain views, a private
dock and an extensive spa. Closed
January to March. Route de Cala
Rossa, Porto-Vecchio $$$$

HôTel Palazzu U Domu

Each stone-floored room is unique in
the elegant former home of the Duke
Pozzo di Borgo, in the heart of historic
Ajaccio. 17 Rue Bonaparte, Ajaccio $$$–$$$$

La Vila Calvi

With stunning views of the historic
citadel, full-service spa and gourmet
dining, this property defines luxury,
Corsica-style. Chemin de Notre Dame de la Serra, Calvi $$$$

Dining

L’Arbousier

This local institution serves Mediterranean
cuisine with a distinctly Corsican
flair in a rustic, elegant dining room
or on a seaside terrace. Reservations
recommended. Hôtel Le Maquis, BP 94, Porticcio $$$–$$$$

Chez Huguette Restaurant

Enjoy fresh local seafood, creatively
prepared game and an excellent wine
list in a gorgeous setting with views
of the old port. Reservations necessary.
Rue de la Marine, Bastia $$$$

La Table Du Marché Saint-Jean

Situated portside in Bastia’s marketplace,
this casual restaurant specializes
in fresh seafood and shellfish
prepared with traditional Provençal
flavors. Closed Sundays. Place du Marché, Bastia $$–$$$

Weblinks

Corsica Ferries

Corsica Tourist Board

Moby Lines

La Villa Calvi