I first visited Riga shortly after its 1991 liberation from half a century of Soviet domination, so I was unprepared for the transformation two decades (and not a little E.U. investment) brought. Its gleaming, restored buildings; spacious green parks; stylish cafés and sizzling nightlife quickly reminded me the Latvian capital was once known as “The Paris of the Baltic.”

Since the Middle Ages, Riga has been a city of business travelers. Although founded by a German bishop as a base to subdue northern infidels, it soon became a major center of trade between Russia and Europe. Less than a century after its founding, it joined the powerful Hanseatic League, a trading partnership of Baltic commercial cities that brought it wealth and prestige. Nearly a millennium later, the Latvian capital is once again a major bridge for commerce between Russia and the West and again a highly cosmopolitan city — a status I was happy to see restored along with its architecture.

Exports are crucial to Latvia’s gross domestic product, predominantly wood, metals, machinery, textiles and food products. A member of the European Union since 2004, Latvia’s entrance into the euro zone is slated for 2014.

Riga International Airport (RIX) is about a 20-minute ride from the city center, and the half-hourly Airport Express shuttle stops stops at about a dozen major hotels. You will need local currency (lats) for this or a taxi, but it’s best to exchange only a little at the airport and wait for an ATM in the city for larger amounts.

Riga is an easy city to navigate, comparatively small and with clearly defined districts. The Daugava River bounds the medieval Old Town, and the city spreads northeast from this historic core. A large swath of park, where the Riga Congress Centre is located, divides the Old Town from a late-19th-century neighborhood of outstanding Art Nouveau buildings that earned Riga its UNESCO World Heritage honors. Crossing the park is the broad Brīvības Iela, a boulevard leading into Riga’s commercial and financial district. The streets of the Old Town are offlimits to most vehicles.

Use only taxis with yellow license plates, and be sure the meter is engaged. It is better to phone for a taxi or to use those from the ranks at a major hotel. Buses, trolleys and trams (the fastest) are all covered by e-tickets, which can be bought at newspaper stands and vending machines or on the vehicle itself.

Anchoring the business and financial district is the 5-star Radisson Blu Rīdzene, whose 95 guestrooms have free high-speed wireless. In addition to its luxury accommodations, the hotel is a popular meeting place for local businesspeople. The Rīdzene Bar and Library in the lobby is a good place to meet clients informally, with intimate seating and fine cigars (open daily 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.).

In contrast to the Radisson’s contemporary polish, the Grand Palace Hotel radiates Old World charm and grace. Posh from its carpets to its chandeliers, the Grand Palace sits in the center of the Old Town (hotel guests are exempt from the traffic ban). Guestrooms are spacious and beautifully furnished. Despite the hotel’s rich history, it is filled with all the latest necessities: complimentary wireless Internet, a business center, fully equipped meeting spaces and a health club with a sauna. It is a Lufthansa Miles & More partner. The clubby Pils Bar, with its hunting trophies, is a popular place for local businesspeople to meet, and Seasons Restaurant is a good choice for entertaining clients. Orangerie offers a more casual setting for a business lunch but with the same high culinary standards.

Behind the Art Nouveau exterior, Old World meets Euro chic in the dining room of the Neiburgs Hotel, where prompt, discreet service and traditional Latvian dishes and ingredients (including Baltic herring, trout, wild mushrooms, fresh cheeses and winter vegetables), updated by a talented young chef, combine for a perfect business lunch or dinner setting. It serves three meals daily, making it a good choice for a power breakfast.

Also in the Old Town, Domini Canes is easy to find, across from the sculpture of Four Musicians of Bremen, and a good vantage point to watch local life if you arrive ahead of your guests. Reserve a window table or, in good weather, one on the terrace, and enjoy both Latvian and international dishes.

For lunch or dinner closer to the corporate and government office district, choose Restaurant Bergs in the Hotel Bergs, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World set in the heart of the commercial quarter. The hotel is a handy meeting venue, with several elegant conference rooms furnished with state-of-the-art equipment. The restaurant, which has a terrace in the summer, is known for its service as well as its contemporary fusion of Latvian cuisine with international styles.

Kaļķu Vārti is a good place to find local specialties, such as Līcīši goat cheese, crawfish, smoked eel and venison, artfully presented. Locals and tourists alike favor Vincent’s. A good option for a shorter late-afternoon meeting with clients, Café Opera, inside the National Opera House, has an elegant ambience, with marble floors and delectable cakes.

If the occasion calls for just drinks, Skyline Bar at Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija offers one of the city’s best views and is a favorite place for aperitifs (it gets a little noisy later). Churchill Club is a cigar lounge where businesspeople meet over fine brandies. Note that the local beer is Aldaris, and Latvia’s national liqueur, which you will almost certainly be offered, is the strong, syrupy Rigas Balzams.

It would be a shame to be in Riga and miss Europe’s finest collection of Art Nouveau exteriors, proclaimed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The highest concentration is adjacent to the business district, along Elizabetes Iela and streets to the east. One, Alberta Iela, goes even further with faces, animals, sinuous balconies and fantastic creatures adorning every façade.

Weblinks

Café Opera

Domini Canes

Grand Palace Hotel

Hotel Bergs

Kaļķu Vā rti Neiburgs Hotel

Radisson Blu Hotel Latvija, Riga

Radisson Blu Rīdzene Hotel, Riga

Riga Public Transport

Vincent’s Restaurant