Early one chilly morning i wandered the back streets of the old quarters of Ahmedabad — the largest city in the Indian state of Gujarat — and stepped back in time. The beautifully carved 15th-century gates, or darwaj, still encompass the old city. Ancient mosques and minarets stand as majestic as ever. It is a city rich in history.

Once called the “Manchester of the East” for its thriving textile industry — now more likely dubbed “Denim City” with the change in fashions — Ahmedabad weaves a vibrant energy into the fabric of its modern economy.

As one of Gujarat’s 18 textile production clusters — the state has five Special Economic Zones and six industrial parks devoted to the industry — Ahmedabad retains its reputation for textiles, exporting raw cotton, processed yarn and bed linen.

The city is fortunate to be located in Gujarat — a state that has given the world not only Mahatma Ghandi but also a fleet of top computer scientists, and which is rapidly becoming an economic powerhouse. Narendra Modi, Gujarat’s chief minister, brought about much of the recent renaissance, boosting development expenditure from $3.8 billion in 2003 to $5.2 billion in 2007. Industrial output was up more than 20 percent in 2006-2007, with the gross domestic product rising nearly 10 percent.

The most recent Global Investors’ Summit — a government-sponsored biannual event — attracted delegations from the United States, Japan, Singapore, China, Israel, South Korea, Italy and other countries, reaping more than $100 billion in investment, with expectations for even more global interest at the January 2009 event to be held at Science City in Ahmedabad.

Development has raised the per capita income 13.8 percent in 2007, and education — particularly for women — has taken center stage. The elementary school dropout rate fell from 49 percent in 1992 to just 3 percent today. Gujarat is home to India’s leading business school — the Indian Institute of Management — as well as the National Institute of Design and what will become India’s first shipbuilding university. Also impressive is the increase in telephone lines, up from 200,000 in 1981 to more than 2 million fixed lines and nearly 15 million cell phone connections today. Every village expects to enjoy broadband Internet access by 2010.

Mayank Mistri, manager of a retail loans group, is typical of Ahmedabad’s new breed of upwardly mobile executives. He continues to frequent a local chai store where a cup of tea costs just two rupees — about one one-hundredth of his hourly income, but a significant return to the shop owner. “If someone wants to make something of his or her life rather than just rely on handouts,” Mistri said, “I’m only too happy to help.”

His comment aptly sums up the region’s new “go-get-it” approach. But this attitude in no way detracts from Ahmedabad’s aesthetic appeal. In fact, tourism development is a priority on the chief minister’s agenda.

“India will soon have the largest tourism industry in the world, and Gujarat could become an important tourist destination,” said Modi. “Our state is No. 1 in the country as far as the number of heritage sites per square kilometer is concerned.”

The government is increasing its infrastructure budget with an eye toward tourism, but matching private sector investments would certainly speed improvements. The state-run Toran Hotels are often run-down, the important western city of Bhuj is not linked by air with Ahmedabad, and — while many of the trunk roads are excellent — secondary roads are often crowded and in disrepair.

Yet the tourist potential here is undeniable. Top attractions include the intricate Jain temples of Palitana, the 5,000-year-old Harappan ruins at Dholavira, and the medieval city of Champaner, on the World Heritage list. And there’s the diverse wildlife — Gujarat has the last remaining Asiatic lions and herds of Asiatic wild ass.

In Ahmedabad, you’ll find ancient mosques. Jama Masjid, construct ed in 1423, is known for its sanctuary supported by more than 300 stone pillars. Sidi Saiyed Mosque on Tilak Road, built around 1570, has exquisite stone tracery featuring branching tree motifs. Sidi Bashir Mosque boasts the famous “Shaking Minarets” — two towers that vibrate in symphony if one is struck. Miraculously, these minarets survived the giant earthquake of 2001.

Evidence of the region’s colorful textile industry, past and present, is everywhere. The Sabarmati market at Ghandi Ashram sells everything from clothing to ochres and dyestuffs, while the Law Garden district’s night market offers the gold-embroidered zari (sari-cloth) — and the entertainment of magicians, fortune-tellers and camel-handlers. Ahmedabad is home to The Calico Museum of Textiles, one of the world’s most celebrated textile museums. Guided tours give a glimpse of the intricate brocades and dazzling tie-dyes, complemented by temple hangings, carpets, Jain art and costumes and fabrics of the Mughal period.

Entry Requirements

A valid passport and visa are necessary for all travel to India. Visas must be obtained before arrival. Three- and six-month as well as five- and 10-year visas are issued to U.S. nationals, with maximum continuous stay not to exceed 180 days. Academic visas may be obtained upon request and with a formal letter of acceptance from an approved educational institute.

More Information

Consulate General of India
3 E. 64th St.
New York, NY 10065
tel 212 774 0600
http://www.indiacgny.org

Embassy of India
2107 Massachusetts Ave., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20008
tel 202 939 7000
http://www.indianembassy.org

Government of Gujarat Industrial Extension Bureau
Block No. 18, 2nd Floor
Udyog Bhavan, Sector 11
Gandhinagar
Gujarat, India 382 017
tel 91 79 2325 6009
http://www.vibrantgujarat.com