I’m eavesdropping. Again. At the rail beside me at Bern’s BärenPark, a slender, ginger-haired man leans over, pointing toward a distant spot where the sun hits the river water and sparkles. The glint causes the scene to vibrate slightly, perfectly underscoring everything within view. Though I’m shamelessly listening, the man is speaking not to me but to a small girl of 5 or so who’s wearing a bright blue sweater embroidered with pink birds.

Her facial features and the identical shade of coppery hair suggest more than coincidence; confirmed when I hear her address the man as “Papa.” Though my German is far from perfect, I catch enough of the story he’s sharing to grasp the gist: It’s a tale involving bears and magic and the beloved literary character created by author Walter Moers, the indomitable Captain Bluebear.

The city’s symbol — a large brown bear — ambles across the grass on the ground below us where it slopes to the water. He (or she, perhaps) is one of three bears that reside in the BärenPark. The trio — Björk, Finn and their daughter, Ursina — occupy a treed and grassy hillside enclosure allowing them private swimming access to a walled-off stream that parallels the River Aare.

There’s a tap on my shoulder, and I turn to find my husband, James, standing there, fresh from a reconnaissance mission to locate a couple of bottles of chilled water. Holding them aloft, victorious, he turns his attention to the furry creature below. After careful assessment, he determines the bear is only slightly more massive than the one that raids the hummingbird feeders on the deck of our Colorado home each spring.

Leaving the park to the little girl, we wander away into the sunshine to locate the Altes Tramdepot, a beer café located close by. Trading in our empty water bottles, we settle in to sample the contents of the copper brewing vats that fill the café center, sipping and comparing notes as the afternoon sun spills across the landscape outside, content to be together on a romantic escape from day-to-day business.

For a capital city, Bern is astonishingly serene. Filled with fountains and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the old city center exudes the very best of Swiss charm. The majority of the fountains were the work of Swiss Renaissance sculptor Hans Gieng, including the nefarious Child Eater Fountain, with its frightening figure of a large ogre sitting above the water and busily devouring an armful of children. I have a fleeting thought of the little girl in the cheerful sweater and hope her path leads her past a less alarming fountain.

Federal Parliament Building © Justin Black | Dreamstime.com

We make our way to the Federal Parliament Building, or Bundeshaus, where a group of alert-looking and far friendlier statues are clustered above the north façade. Standing among them is the figure of a woman dressed in long robes, holding a flag in her left hand in a representation of national independence.

As former residents of Washington, D.C., both James and I are admittedly fascinated with capital buildings and decide to take a peek inside. Built in Florentine Renaissance style, the central section is flanked by wings on the east and west that seat the Federal Council and Parliament. A national statement from top to bottom, the building was decorated by Swiss artists and constructed almost entirely of Swiss materials, including beautiful green sandstone.

We pause at the entrance guarded by the imposing bronze statues of the Historian and the Chronicler, created by Maurice Hippolyte Raymond. Inscribed with a maxim denoting the ancient Roman Senate, they’re said to collectively weigh the events that take place beneath the federal roof.

Inside the domed hall, shaped like the cross of the Swiss flag, symbolism is everywhere: statues of soldiers representing the German, French, Italian and Romansch-speaking areas of the country; battle heroes and intricate plaster reliefs; and glass windows painted with scenes detailing Switzerland’s industries of trade, transport, metal, textiles and agriculture. James suggests that the building’s designers could have done a better job here, as his favorite Swiss industry — chocolate — has been glaringly overlooked.

The mention of chocolate conjures a mutual longing for dinner, and we enjoy a meal of local specialties at the historic Kornhauskeller that includes pork prepared with mushrooms and herbs, and large helpings of rösti potatoes. By the time we eventually cross the threshold of our hotel, the magnificent Bellevue Palace, we’re both ready to call it a night. A break from business in Bern, but a tiring day of immersing ourselves in the beauty of the city nonetheless.

In the morning, a short walk from the hotel along the Aarestrasse brings us within view of the grand spire of the city’s Gothic cathedral, the Berner Münster. Beautifully silhouetted against the purple, gray and alabaster shades of the nearby mountains, it seems to be intentionally posing for a postcard shot. Earlier, the Bellevue concierge informed us the views from within the spire are even more astounding, and we proceed in a mostly vertical direction to find out if it’s true.

We admire the range of decorative details, from the main portal’s mostly 15th-century carved wood and stone rendition of the Last Judgment to a relief of frolicking bears, then head for the stairs. After 320 steps, I lose count, but we soon reach the bell tower’s platform, and it’s clear the journey was worth the effort. Below, the view of rooftops, trees and streets unfolds like the pages of a storybook, framed by the Alpine peaks and the bright sapphire ribbon of river.

Farther north and not far from the river’s edge, we make our way to the Kunstmuseum Bern, housing the city’s fine arts collections. The building isn’t difficult to find, rising from the streetside with an odd combination of sternness and welcome, due in part to the marble figures peering intently from above the entrance of the front façade.

Beginning to feel as though we’re being watched, we duck inside. Within, the stunning permanent collection of major works from around the world keeps us busy for hours. We meet up in the museum café and share our favorite finds over tea, cream cake and chocolate torte: Rothko, Pollock and the graphics collection for James; Dalí, Van Gogh and works from the Blue Rider School for me. When on a break from business in a new city, discovering the artwork is one of my favorite activities.

The day winds down with a stroll along Kramgasse past the house at No. 49 where Einstein once lived and a visit to the gate that served as the city’s original western entrance centuries ago. Today it’s recognized as one of the most famous medieval clock towers in the world, housing the Zytglogge astronomical clock.

We’ve scored a private tour of the tower that takes us inside to watch the clock’s mechanisms in action. The colossal clockwork is a maze of wheels and gears, with a gigantic pendulum and a movement crafted in 1530 by clock master Kasper Bruner. After the tour, we go outside in time to watch as the hour is struck. The dial is an astrolabe, with an intricate and colorfully layered face representing daybreak and the horizon, its enormous Roman numerals in rich gold. The zodiac is also portrayed, encircled by a moon dial and a sun that moves across the clock’s face each day and circuits the zodiac once each year.

Bern Clock Tower © Valeria Cantone | Dreamstime.com

Suddenly, the large, gilded figure of Chronos, who represented time to the Greeks, appears, announcing the hour with a fell of his hammer. James turns and smiles but doesn’t need to say a word. We both understood Chronos’ message perfectly: It’s officially time for dinner and a bottle of wine.

Bern Info to Go

Bern Airport, also known as Bern-Belp, has limited international traffic, with connections from other Swiss locations and major European cities. It’s located about 30 minutes from the city, with taxi or bus transport (No. 334) to Belp train station; from there, frequent S-Bahn trains connect to Bern’s main station. International arrivals at Zürich (ZRH ) allow transport to Bern via direct trains (90 minutes) from the airport station, located directly beneath the Airport Center’s Check-In 3 area. Purchase tickets from counters (6:15 a.m.–10:30 p.m.) and machines at the SBB Travel Centre and in Customs halls 1 and 2.

Where to Stay in Bern

Bellevue Palace Bern Elegant and timeless, this grand hotel is close to the river and the Bundeshaus, the seat of the Swiss government. Deluxe rooms come with built-in views of the Bernese Alps. Kochergasse 3-5 $$$$

Hotel Belle Epoque Located within the historic district, this sleek luxury design hotel’s interior reflects its namesake Parisian sensibility, with a museum-worthy art collection that boasts pieces by Klimt and Toulouse-Lautrec. Gerechtigkeitsgasse 18 $$$

Schweizerhof Hotel Adding to its classic décor and a refreshingly contemporary twist, this newly renovated property just opened an outstanding spa center. Bahnhofplatz 11 $$$$

Restaurants in Bern

Kornhauskeller Restaurant A wide staircase leads from street level down beneath arched ceilings. Gleaming wood and lovely wall decorations complement an excellent menu of traditional Bernese fare. Kornhausplatz 18 $$$

Restaurant La Terrasse This is a gourmand’s dream, with 16 GaultMillau points and no shortage of atmosphere. In fine weather, choose the broad terrace with views of the majestic Alps. Bellevue Palace, Kochergasse 3-5 $$$$

Restaurant Lötschberg Retro 1960s delicatessen kitsch defines the décor, but the food is absolutely up to date, featuring regional specialties for an eclectic clientele of celebs, politicians and tourists. Zeughausgasse 16 $$$

Read more about outdoor sports in the Swiss Alps.