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In the small hours of a moonless night, it’s just a road. Lit by sodium lights, it twists up through darkness, seemingly suspended in the void. We have it almost to ourselves. My cousin is driving, neatly negotiating a continual sequence of rising bends. I gaze beyond the meandering river of light into velvet blackness. This, I have been told, is one of the greatest roads in the world. I can’t see why.