Reports of its demise are greatly exaggerated. In fact, Mumbai’s nightlife scene is alive and well despite an unexpected police crackdown last summer that temporarily dimmed the lights in some of the city’s most popular nightclubs and bars.

The party stalled midsummer when a zealous law enforcement officer initiated raids on bars, restaurants, clubs and — in a few reported incidents — private homes. His calling card: a decades-old law requiring bar owners and consumers to carry permits to buy, possess, consume or transport alcohol. Never mind the law hadn’t been enforced in close to 40 years or that most of Mumbai had never heard of the long-forgotten ordinance. New leadership installed in September quickly dispatched the posse and, for the most part, Mumbai’s nightlife is back on track.

Start the night out right with a sunset cocktail at Aer in the Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai in Worli. The rooftop bar on the 34th floor offers panoramic views of the city, and Sunset Happy Hour (5:30–8 p.m. daily) makes it the ideal first stop for cocktails and tapas, although you may decide to stay for the evening when DJ Fatbat cranks up the volume with a well-rounded play list of jazz, funk and classics from the ’80s and ’90s.

For a taste of Bollywood, head to the waterfront neighborhood of Juhu, home to some of India’s most popular celebrities. Snag a seat on the patio at Vie Lounge to peruse the 18-page drinks menu while keeping an eye out for Bollywood bigwigs. (Call ahead to be sure the venue isn’t closed for a private party.) Aurus is another Juhu hot spot. Expect loud music and a crowded bar scene inside, or cozy up at a candlelit table on the beachside deck to steer the evening toward a more romantic ending.

Whether bars are checking permits or not (a few began issuing one-day permits on-site during the height of last summer’s crackdown), keep in mind the legal drinking age in Mumbai is 25. And while the LGBT community is gaining acceptance in Mumbai, pockets of discrimination remain. It’s best to avoid public displays of affection — the same advice holds true for conventional couples. You won’t likely find rainbow flags advertising gay-friendly nightspots, but resources abound.

Gay Bombay organizes parties on at least two Saturdays a month in addition to regular events, including film screenings and informational seminars.