Mumbai is the original “city that never sleeps.” After dusk, this megalopolis of more than 12 million people shifts into another gear. The sensory bombardments of daytime assume greater intensity by night; the city seems noisier, more pungent and more colorful.

Mark the transition from afternoon to evening by strolling along the waterfront close to the Gateway of India. You won’t be the only one with that idea: Even on an average day, there is something of a festival atmosphere as the sun sets and the myriad lights of the city switch on. You’ll rub shoulders with people from all sections of Mumbai society.

The colonial administrators used to celebrate the end of the working day with a sundowner at Leopold Café. The tradition endures to this day. The famous café, established in 1871, is located just a couple of blocks from the Gateway of India and is very popular with both Mumbaikars and tourists. After a day spent in the heat of Mumbai, a cold beer at Leopold is guaranteed to be the best you’ve ever tasted. If you’re with friends, you can order a “beer tower” — allowing you to pour your own draft beer at the table.

Having quenched your thirst, it’s time to go looking for food. You won’t have to look very far. Mumbai, one of the world’s great culinary cities, boasts an abundance of restaurants and food stalls. The stalls at Chowpatty Beach are a great place to sample street food, with an incredible array of snacks (including local favorites such as bhelpuri and panipuri).

For something more substantial and sophisticated, head to Indigo, the city’s most renowned restaurant. Housed in a trendily restored colonial bungalow, Indigo serves European cuisine with an Indian twist.

A good choice for after-dinner refreshment is Bachelor’s Juice House adjacent to Chowpatty Beach, offering a wide selection of ice cream and traditional desserts. This area is part of SoBo — South Bombay — one of the epicenters of the city’s nightlife.

A great place for live music is Blue Frog, a short ride north of Chowpatty Beach, where you can enjoy visiting artists playing anything from blues to dance music. Farther north, in the district of Bandra, there is another cluster of chic venues including the popular bar Toto’s Garage.

Controversially, city officials recently stepped up the enforcement of a strict 1:30 a.m. curfew on Mumbai’s nightlife. Regardless, life here continues to be lived frenetically from dusk ’til dawn.

Weblinks

Blue Frog
Indigo
Leopold Café
Maharashtra Tourism