London, the largest city in Europe and once the center of an empire so large the sun was said to never set where its flag flew, conjures up brilliant and colorful images, both historic and contemporary. The city that survived plague and fire and war retains its eminence and glory, the very house of sophistication. These days, a walk though the bustling streets of the Kings Road or along the cobblestone alleys of Shepherd’s Market yields everything from the latest designer clothing to world-inspired cuisine.

London is a financial powerhouse as the European headquarters for more than 25 percent of the world’s multinational corporations. Boasting a young and vibrant population of more than 7 million, close to half of whom are between the ages of 16 and 44, London is an active destination offering a variety of opportunities for both work and play. The city once known by occupying Romans as Londinium, hosts elegant hotels, numerous conference and expo venues, a collage of tourist and commercial attractions and that comforting, almost intoxicating feeling that comes from being in a truly historic world-class city.

One of London’s more contemporary conveniences is its ability to stay on top of the technology wave, a serious plus for travelers who are becoming increasingly dependent on the Internet and immediate transfer of information. As one of the wealthiest cities in the world, London is technologically sophisticated-a factor that’s making its way into the hospitality industry. It’s safe to say it won’t be long before most of the city’s hotels and lodging establishments are fully wired for high-speed Internet access.

More and more Internet providers are sprouting up, each offering faster Internet connections and increased innovation. Wireless technology is also moving into hotels and conference centers and a wireless card in the side of the laptop will soon replace all those cables. One craze that has hit London recently is “Warchalking.” Renewing a Depression-era tradition in which members of the homeless population would leave chalk markers on the sidewalk to indicate friendly homes, gangs of cybernerds are marking wireless Internet areas, known as hot spots. This basically means, if you can understand the symbols, which include bandwidth on offer, you can tap into a business Internet connection to surf the Web or check email.

With all this Internet jazz, it was only a matter of time before the tourism industry hopped on the bandwagon. Some of the best sites include www.visitlondon.com and www.visitbritian.com. Both provide up-to-date information about both business and leisure travel, functioning as a sort of Web concierge service. Mark my word, it won’t be long before we see business travelers and Internet-savvy holiday makers roaming the city district, laptop open, looking for chalk symbols on the walls.

London can be an expensive destination. A recent survey conducted by Corcoran.com, a global real-estate company, found that London apartments are the most expensive per square foot in the world, beyond even Hong Kong and Paris. A two-bedroom apartment, averaging 1,400 to 2,000 square feet, will set you back $2.12 million on average. And despite the fact that accommodation is so expensive compared to many other parts of the world, millions of people from as far away as New Zealand head to London each year in search of employment and experience in what is globally known as the Overseas Experience or the Big OE.

A highlight of my first trip to London came in the form of an experienced guide by the name of John Carter. A Benny Hill look-alike with the gift of gab, Carter has been a limo driver in London more years then he cares to remember. He makes a living transporting celebrities-supermodel Rachel Hunter was a recent passenger-for the prestigious London City Chauffeurs (www.londoncity chauffeurs.com). This limo company does not limit itself to airport transfers, but also offers comprehensive, accompanied tours of London, from gliding through Piccadilly Circus in a late-model Mercedes to discreet buying trips at early morning antiques markets. Tours also include landmark attractions such as the Tower of London, Buckingham Palace’s Changing of the Guard and the London Eye Ferris wheel.

Where to Stay

When it comes to hotels, London, like any world city, has every variety at every price range. From world-class brands to one-of-a-kind hostelries, from large properties to small boutique hotels, most offer all the amenities travelers need to conduct business away from the office.

The Hilton on Park Lane

Situated at Mayfair, The Hilton on Park Lane is a world-renowned 450-room property offering quick and easy access to both tourist spots and business venues. Green Park and Buckingham Palace are nearby and Piccadilly and the city district are only a few stops away on the London Underground, aka The Tube (convenient stations at Piccadilly and Hyde Park). The three executive floors consist of 95 rooms with stunning city views. Although some of the standard rooms are smaller than at other five-star properties, they offer all the amenities needed to conduct business, including high-speed Internet access from in-room jacks, multinational power plugs and a comprehensive business center in the form of the 26th floor executive lounge. There’s also a fully equipped fitness center, perfect for those travelers who like to stay in shape.
Hilton Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, London GBW1K1BE
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 74938000, fax 44 20 72084142
www.london-parklane.hilton.com

The Lanesborough

Those in the know consider The Lanesborough one of the best properties in the city. Standing at Knightsbridge, close to Westminster and Sloane Street, it is the epitome of old English luxury and charm. The 95-room hotel is furnished in Regency style with 1820s antique furniture throughout. Arriving guests are issued personalized business cards with their private line contact details. In terms of business technology, The Lanesborough boasts an interactive TV/computer with infrared keyboard and printer. Each room has a dual-line cordless phone and dedicated fax machine, DVD and CD library. The hotel has six meeting rooms and specializes in high-quality business dinners. There is also the delicate and colorful Conservatory Restaurant and the suitably named Withdrawing Room for after-dinner drinks. The Lanesborough is a true five-star property for travelers who can mix business and pleasure.
The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner,London SW1X7TA
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 72595599, fax 44 20 72595606
www.lanesborough.com

Dukes Hotel
One hotel that stands for quiet indulgence in after-work hours is Dukes Hotel in St. James’s Place, known as one of the most civilized properties in the city. It has a much more homey feel to it than a lot of hotels, a godsend for frequent travelers who sour at the thought of staying at just one more cookie-cutter property. Privately owned, the first surprise is that Dukes Hotel has 89 rooms; you feel as if you never left a stately home. Guestrooms feature air conditioning, private bar, satellite television and a dual telephone line with voicemail and dataport access. Located near Green Park and Buckingham Palace, the hotel is convenient to the Financial District and tourist attractions. The hotel bar is known for its martinis and its cognac collection, some aged over 150 years. It offers a small but modern fitness center and a health club, open daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Dukes Hotel, St. James’s Place, London SW1A1NY
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 74914840, fax 44 20 74931264
www.dukeshotel.co.uk

The Gore Hotel

Owned by two antiques dealers, the Gore Hotel is filled with fantastic and fanciful furniture, including massive four-poster beds and an original shower built for an Indian Maharaja. Not quite fitting into any particular niche, the corridors are narrow and the dining and bar simple yet inviting. It is the perfect example of a small and unique property living up to international expectations and has created a bit of a buzz as a social spot favored by models from some of London’s top agencies. Guestrooms feature deep mahogany and walnut tones. One room even has a massive fireplace and gallery. A fitness center is available through the hotel’s membership at the nearby Imperial College Health Club. While it may lack some of today’s technologically advanced features, the Gore Hotel is a great place for informal business meetings and is definitely a good choice for people looking for something just a bit out of the ordinary.
The Gore Hotel, 190 Queen’s Gate, London GBSW7SEX
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 75846601, fax 44 20 75898127
www.gorehotel.com

Radisson SAS Portman Hotel

Located near Marble Arch in a secluded corner of Portman Square, the Radisson SAS Portman Hotel is close to Oxford and Regent streets. Security cards give travelers entry to 272 newly refurbished rooms in five styles: classic, Oriental, Italian, British and Scandinavian. Each has modem and fax lines. The hotel offers 24-hour room service, express checkout, express check-in for guests arriving on SAS flights, a comprehensive business center with secretarial services, valet and express dry cleaning services and a large gym with sauna and steam rooms. Dining options include an 89-item buffet breakfast in the Talavera Portman Corner Restaurant, which also serves light lunches and dinner. Situated on leafy Portman Square, Selfridges, Marks & Spencers and the famous shops of Bond Street are just minutes’ walk away, while Hyde Park is just around the corner, offering a peaceful haven in which to stroll and relax. The hotel is a short walk from Paddington Station, which offers a 15-minute ride to Heathrow.
Radisson SAS Portman Hotel, 22 Portman Square
London W1H7BG, United Kingdom
tel 44 20 7208 6000 or 800 333-3333, fax 44 20 7208 6001
www.radisson.com

Where to Dine

With so many cultures, people, influences and districts, London is becoming a great place to eat and drink, breaking away from the traditionally poor reputation of British cuisine. It’s no wonder Londoners and visitors alike are reveling in the city’s culinary revival.

If you’re the sort of diner who likes to wander until something strikes your fancy, head for Shepherd’s Market. Located behind the Hilton Park Lane, the market is a series of picturesque
courtyards featuring an array of trendy little brasseries and restaurants. There is also the bar/club scene in Soho or Shoreditch and Hoxton including Alphabet with its seating made out of reclining car seats, complete with Space Invaders consoles straight out of the ‘70s. Carnaby, a well-known “swinging ‘60s”-era haunt is also making a comeback with restaurants and trendy clubs galore.

Hampstead Haunt

Located in leafy Hampstead, Hampstead Haunt specializes in French and Mediterranean cuisine. If you’re looking for a relaxed setting without the fuss of the city, this is a little gem. For starters, try chilled gazpacho with fresh crab and wholesome warm onion tart and then move onto something more robust, like a roast rump of lamb with flageolet beans and potato fondant. The
ambience is warm and inviting; staffers are so friendly you want them to sit down and dine with you. Dinner costs about $43.
Hampstead Haunt, The Wells, 30 Well Walk,London NW3
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 77943785

Boisdale

Sit under the stars in the flower-filled courtyard at Boisdale Scottish restaurant and enjoy the cuisine of Head Chef David Morey. The menu includes sandwiches like roast Aberdeen Angus topside of beef served pink with horseradish, chargrilled free-range chicken breast with Caesar dressing, and Atlantic prawns with harissa mayonnaise and wild rocket. Try the Aberdeen Angus beef burger with red onion relish and thick hand-cut chips or the Macdonald wild Highland venison burger with Bloody Mary sauce. The restaurant also offers a comprehensive wine list. Dinner costs about $25.
Boisdale, 15 Eccleston St., London SW19LX
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 77306922, fax 44 20 7300548
www.boisdale.co.uk

Caravaggio

Caravaggio is rumored to have the best modern Italian food in London. Opened in 1996 by opera legend Luciano Pavarotti, the restaurant is situated in a restored bank building, complete with a great high-ceiling. Try spaghetti marinara with crab, roasted wild boar or sea scallop salad with goat cheese. Dinner costs about $75.
Caravaggio, 107-112 Leadenhall St.
London EC3A4AA, United Kingdom
tel 44 20 76266206, fax 44 20 76278108

Spaghetti Opera at Trat Est

If you enjoy a bit of entertainment while you dine, check out Spaghetti Opera at Trat Est. The restaurant offers 15-minute operatic performances at regular intervals. You can even join in, if the mood strikes. And, you might run into some of the media personalities who frequent London’s famed Fleet Street. Spaghetti Opera at Trat Est is a nonsmoking restaurant. Dinner costs about $20 to $35.
Spaghetti Opera at Trat Est, 109 Fleet St.
London EC4A2AB, United Kingdom, tel 44 20 73532680

St. John
This restaurant offers a rare insight into the little-known intricacies of British cooking. Winner of the Moet & Chandon London Restaurant Award for best British restaurant in 2000 and best in London in 2001, the property operates under the ever-watchful eye of Head Chef Fergus Henderson. Try the oysters or Welsh rarebit at the bar. Enjoy whole crab, duck or faggots as an entrée. There’s usually a vegetarian option on the menu, too. St. John is a nonsmoking restaurant. Dinner costs $50 to $80.
St. John, 26 St. John St., London EC1M4A4
United Kingdom, tel 44 20 72510848, fax 44 20 72514090

Windows

Windows Restaurant at the Hilton on Park Lane is a piece of London’s culinary history. Perched on the 28th floor of the landmark hotel, it offers amazing evening views across Buckingham Palace all the way to the River Thames and the massive London Eye Ferris wheel. Reservations are essential. Windows turns into a jazz lounge in the later hours with well-known international performers making regular appearances. A popular event is Sunday afternoon tea (about $15), featuring cakes, savories and champagne. Entrées cost about $25.
Windows, Hilton Park Lane, 22 Park Lane
London GBW1K1BE, United Kingdom
tel 44 20 74938000, fax 44 20 72084142
www.london-parklane.hilton.com

Shopping

London is where wealth, culture, fashion and sophistication come together in the form of shopping districts, each catering to specific styles of retail and product. Although London has a reputation for being an expensive city, a lot of what you want to see, from galleries to landmarks and from window shopping to river cruising, range from free to very reasonable. At the city’s many markets, you’ll find everything from ostrich burgers and fresh cider at the Borough High Street, to jewelry and contemporary blown-glass art at Covent Garden, to secondhand knickknacks at Spitalfields near the Financial District. These well-known areas often boast more than meets the eye, like Trafalgar Square, with the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery. Each piece of the London jigsaw has its own complex history, making a stroll through the city very enlightening. London is also known for its world-class shopping, ranging from the elitist enclave at Harrod’s to more contemporary offerings at
King’s Road, Sloane Street and Bond Street.

Soho once had an infamous reputation as London’s red-light district, but the hustling pimps and neon lights have given way to a daytime café culture with many expensive giftware stores and boutique houseware shops. On Fridays and Saturdays, the area becomes a clubbing mecca for the city’s youth. Old Crompton is still the flamboyant gay district and retains some of the naughtier stores, while Leicester Square continues to be London’s Chinatown, with every small plastic toy or mainland-produced imitation sport shoe conceivable, at bargain basement prices.

Many Londoners claim Oxford Street is the busiest street in Europe and is known for all the big names and big department stores like Selfridges, which promise to have everything. This area is especially convenient for those staying in hotels near Hyde Park, including The Lanesborough and The Hilton Park Lane. It is 11/2 miles long running from Hyde Park to Tottenham Court via other famous thoroughfares like Bond Street and Regent Street. Most shops are open from 10 a.m. to 6 or 7 p.m. Some shops are open later on Thursday nights.

Regent Street runs from Oxford Circus to Piccadilly Circus, about three-quarters of a mile, and although the stores have smaller signs to try to preserve the historic nature of the neighborhood, they are by no means less expensive. This is a great place to buy tailored clothes especially shirts. Workmanship is great and you will not be paying out as much
as you would at Saville Row.

Want to Go?

London is known for its well-planned and convenient public transportation system.
Heathrow Airport (LHR) (www.baa.com/main/airports/heathrow), one of the largest in the world, is but one of three international airports serving the Greater London area. Once home to the now-retired fleet of Concorde supersonic jets that zipped back and forth across the Atlantic Ocean at staggering speeds, Heathrow consists of four massive terminals, one of which is used exclusively by United Kingdom flagship carrier British Airways. The airport serves more than 90 airlines flying to 170 destinations. An air travel hub catering to 63 million people a year,
Heathrow is a fundamental component to London’s eminence as a business destination. Gatwick (LGW) (www.baa.com/main/airports/gatwick) is London’s second international airport while Stansted (STN) (www.baa.com/main/airports/stansted) serves mainly tour operators and low-cost carriers.

Heathrow Airport is accessible by bus, Underground (tube.tfl.gov.uk) via the Piccadilly Line and by Heathrow Express (www.heathrowexpress.com), which makes the journey from Paddington Station to Terminals 1-3 in 15 minutes and to Terminal 4 in 20 minutes. A cab to or from the airport will cost about $65. The Gatwick Express (www.gatwickexpress.co.uk) runs between Gatwick Airport and Victoria Station in 30 minutes.You can take Airbus No. 5 to Victoria Coach Station or you can get a cab for about $110. The Stansted Express will get you to Stansted Airport from Liverpool Street Station in 45 minutes, Airbus A6 will take you to Victoria Coach Station or you can get a cab for about $120.

Most major carriers including American (www.aa.com), Delta (www.delta.com), United (www.ual.com),Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com) and British Airways (www.ba.com) connect cities throughout the United States and London.