Husband-and-wife team Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee made their mark by reinventing the term “hidden gem” through their surprising and intentional collection of destination restaurants. While they launched the original Scratch Kitchen in 2013, an expired lease prompted them to relocate to an unassuming strip mall in suburban Encino in 2015 and rename it Scratch Bar & Kitchen. Even at a time when the San Fernando Valley was not known for innovative 5-star dining, the Lees’ concepts gathered such a strong buzz that discerning diners cheerfully followed them “over the hill.”

Inevitably, the original restaurant gave way to the. Scratch Restaurants Group, which quietly yet boldly expanded beyond Los Angeles. Sushi by Scratch at Grand Hyatt Deer Valley opened earlier this year, pushing the stylish, intimate approach of the Lees’ omakase-inspired tasting menu with an immersive experience where visual and aural elements are as important to the 17-plus course dinner-and-a-show presentation as is each morsel of food painstakingly prepared with intention.

© Elyse Glickman

There are three seatings offered Wednesday–Sunday, with advanced reservations and the whole party of up to 10 people arriving on time required. The journey begins in a plush lounge.

Members of the party are served several impeccably constructed bites prepared á la minute alongside a visually unassuming but sophisticated cocktail made from sake, Japanese whiskey and ginger syrup. The maître d’ explains this prelude to the 17 omakase courses is intended to open up the palate.

The group is then shown into a dark, intimate room transporting diners from the open spaces and mountains of Utah to a tiny speakeasy-inspired space that could be in Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto. There is 1920s-era Japanese big band music softly playing, and lighting focused on the refrigerated case and cold rail prep area creates the feel of a close-up magic show. The area is filled with the omakase’s essential ingredients, underscoring that a good deal of the fish, seafood and condiments are flown in twice a week from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market and other esteemed purveyors in Japan or Utah.

© Elyse Glickman

On the back wall, the lineup of courses is arranged into a visual bento box. This serves as a starting point for Chef Josh Schrader. He first introduces diners to freshly grated wasabi; signature house-fermented soy sauce; special rice foundation; and addictive palate-cleansing pickled cucumber, ginger and shiitake mushroom salad.

“We use Koshihikari short-grain rice that holds together well, so we prefer using prehistoric chopsticks—your fingers and hands—so be sure to wash them to be ready for the evening,” said Schrader. “The black slab in front of you is not a coaster but the place where we will hand you every bite throughout the evening. While it is convenient to move it closer to you when you are eating the course, we just ask that you put it back ahead of the next one. I will be giving a brief 10 to 15 second description of the bite, and if I can have your attention at that time, it would be greatly appreciated.”

© Elyse Glickman

Liquid chef Asia Dove or another high-ranking member of the bar team, meanwhile, stands to the side of the chefs, and is impressively quick on her feet ready to pour or refill the right sake, whiskey, Japanese lager or light sake cocktail to further supplement the flavor profiles and textures, be they delicate or bold, depending on the protein. The flow of service is flawless, from chefs slicing and torching seafood or Wagyu, or using condiments in preparation including prawn butter, black lava salt, Fresno chiles, bone marrow and herbs.

While conversation is politely discouraged during the two-hour journey, it guarantees this unique branch of Sushi by Scratch will be talked about long after Chef Margarita’s seasonal matcha desserts is presented. Even if you happen to be a fan of the Lees’ flair from their other restaurants, this mountain-high outpost is worth seeking out in the heart of Deer Valley.

© Elyse Glickman

Sushi by Scratch at Grand Hyatt Deer Valley
1702 Glencoe Mountain Way
Park City, UT 84060
tel 435 731 4658