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Most people cruise by the small sign for Carara National Park, in a rush to drive from San José to the Costa Rican coast. But I know better, having been told by a local to not only make a mandatory stop at this sliver of rainforest, but to get here when the gate opens at 7 a.m. Three minutes later, I hear loud squawking overhead and look up at an extended branch of a white cedar tree. Above me is a pair of scarlet macaws in their impressive pageantry of red, blue and yellow dress. The male and female are perched side by side, a symbol of the macaw’s life-long monogamy. They’re all over each other, kissing and grooming their feathers, when I realize there’s a little red head peeking out of a hole behind them. It’s Junior — and above him, another head pops out of another hole, a sibling.