FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

Kick Back in Spain’s Balearic Islands

by fxgallagher

Apr 23, 2014
2014 / May 2014

Mallorca and the smaller islands of Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera, along with about 100 little islets, scatter about the Mediterranean as though they’ve fallen off the coast of Spain. The archipelago, while clearly Spanish, seems farther away from the mainland than the mere 60 miles of sea separating them. Even in Mallorca’s capital city of Palma, a holiday air pervades, and the islands celebrate a festival almost weekly; they are designed for kicking back.

Get a feel for Palma by climbing aboard an open-topped sightseeing bus, hopping off to explore the narrow streets or to tour highlights such as the Palau de L’Alumndaina, the royal palace. Rejoin the bus to the odd circular Castell de Bellver on its hilltop and enjoy the views from its ramparts and piney park. With this quick overview and the English-language descriptions from a headset, you’ll be able to explore the city’s attractions and savor its lively plazas.

Castell de Bellver was built in the 14th century on a hilltop near Palma de Mallorca. © Harryfn | Dreamstime.com

Castell de Bellver was built in the 14th century on a hilltop near Palma de Mallorca. © Harryfn | Dreamstime.com

Hints of Palma’s long Arab past linger in the rounded arches, rippling fountains and twisting narrow streets of its old medina. The impressive cathedral that overlooks the sea was begun in the 13th century, just after Christians reconquered the islands, and restored by Modernist Catalonian architect Antoni Gaudí in the early 1900s. The cathedral’s 14th-century Mirada Portal is a masterpiece of Spanish Gothic architecture, and the rose window holds sway as one of the world’s largest Gothic church windows.

Lovely and atmospheric as Palma’s old city may be, it’s not for the historic charm that most people come to the Balearic Islands. Most soon head to the beaches and their sybaritic resorts.

Mallorca alone boasts more than 200 beaches. West of Palma extend a mix of mass-tourism developments and chic resorts scattered with elegant villas. The best way to find the perfect beach is to drive around the coast until you spot your own ideal stretch of sand. In general, those closest to Palma are the most crowded and likely backed by hotel complexes.

Es Trenc, southeast of the capital, is somewhat isolated and not attached to a resort, so its mile of golden sand and Caribbean-clear water feel more natural and wilder than most. Also on the southeast coast and popular for snorkeling and diving, Cala Barca’s golden sands face a bay bordering Mondragó Park.

In the northeast, backed by the lush pine forests and mountains of Llevant Peninsula Natural Park, lies Cala Agulla, a beautiful Blue Flag beach. (The Blue Flag Programme encourages sustainable development of beaches and marinas through strict criteria dealing with safety and environmental controls.) At the northernmost point, Blue Flag Cala Formentor is very lovely and deservedly popular. To get away from crowds entirely, walk about 30 minutes from Colonia Sant Jordi to the long stretch of white sand of Es Carbo Beach, in a protected bay at the island’s southern tip.

Even the most dedicated sun worshippers sometimes look for amusements beyond the beach, and Mallorca has them. Birders and nature-lovers head for the Mondragó Natural Park, where the beaches have the added interest of winding rivers that flow out from orchid-draped oak forests. Watch for 70-plus bird species from the park’s walking trails and bike paths. Elsewhere, the coast offers dunes and cliffs cut by ravines.

On the north coast, actor Michael Douglas transformed an old estate in Valldemossa into Costa Nord Cultural Centre to preserve the landscape and customs of the Tramuntana Mountains with a schedule of cultural activities, outdoor summer concerts and exhibitions. In the same region, the old manor house of La Granja de Esporles offers glimpses into island culture with local foods, wines, traditional crafts and horse shows.

Valldemossa is perhaps best known for its Royal Monastery, where Frédéric Chopin composed Préludes while he and author George Sand spent the winter there in 1838, inspiring her book, A Winter in Mallorca. Today visitors can tour the couple’s quarters and enjoy his music at the August Chopin Festival. Although their unmarried status brought local disapproval at the time, Mallorca has since embraced them officially as the island’s adopted son and daughter, proving that fame and time forgive all. More atmospheric are the nearby gardens of Alfabia, another remnant of Mallorca’s centuries of Moorish rule.

A vintage train brings commuters and tourists from Palma to Port de Soller. A tram continues down to the port, where boats leave to tour the north coast and a narrow road climbs up to a lighthouse.

Close to Palma, the studio of Spanish artist Joan Miró displays hundreds of his works in stone galleries, and his gardens are still filled with objects and scenes that inspired him. The site, something close to a holy shrine for his Spanish admirers, is much as he left it at his death in 1983. For a breathtaking drive and views, follow the coast from Palma Nova, just west of Palma, through the precipitous village of Banyalbufar to Andratx, stopping at the overlooks.

Mallorca’s most dramatic scenery lies at its northeast tip of Cape Formentor, where rocky cliffs drop into the sea. The Coves d’Arta provide another reason to visit this far end of the island — limestone caves opening 150 feet above the crashing sea. Both fishing excursion boats and ferries to Menorca leave from nearby Port d’Alcudia.

For those who would rather look at the island from the sea, Mallorca has more than 40 marinas that cater to yacht owners and a number of firms offering charters. At the eastern end of Porto Nous, the upscale marina of Porto Portals fills with gleaming white yachts that bring European royalty and American movie stars to the island. Nor will golfers have any trouble finding courses to play. Real Federación Española de Golf has 18 affiliated clubs on Mallorca and one each on Menorca and Ibiza. Thomas Himmel’s new Golf Son Gual sits on the list of the top 100 golf courses in Europe.

Taulas at Talatí de Dalt, Menorca © Lunamarina | Dreamstime.com

Taulas at Talatí de Dalt, Menorca © Lunamarina | Dreamstime.com

Although Mallorca is the largest and most visited, Ibiza — often called La Isla Blanca for its white beaches — is considered the most beautiful of the Balearics, densely forested in pines and marked by cliffs that tower above its cove beaches. Its natural beauty, along with its cultural treasures, won it a coveted place on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Like Menorca, Ibiza is dotted with remains of all the civilizations that have passed through, including the Phoenicians. The archaeological sites of Sa Caleta and Puig d’es Molins date back to the eighth century B.C. On Menorca, the prehistoric round dwellings and caves of Torre LLafuda and megaliths of Talatí de Dalt suggest habitation as far back as 5000 B.C. Visit the Municipal Museum of Ciutadella des Bastió de sa Font to see artifacts from these and other sites.

However fascinating its history, Ibiza’s more than 50 glorious white beaches are its main draw. While some, like many on Mallorca, are backed by hotels and tourist complexes or have the usual European rows of matching umbrellas and beach chairs, most still have the remote feel of places only known to locals. You’ll find them all around the island, with the largest concentration in the southeast.

Within walking distance of Santa Eulalia, pine trees surround the surprisingly uncrowded Playa Niu Blau, and its gentle slope and clear, shallow water make it a good choice for families with young children. Nearby Cala Pada’s clear water and almost deserted golden sands are also surrounded by fragrant pines and red rock cliffs. In a cove beside a scenic rocky headland, Cala Boix’s pebbly gray sands provide a favorite spot for snorkeling and for bodysurfing when winds pick up in the afternoon.

Balearic Islands Info to Go

Frequent flights from the international airports at Madrid (MAD) and Barcelona (BCN ) connect to Palma, Mallorca (PMI) and to Ibiza (IBZ). City buses (Line 1) connect Palma Airport with the city center and (Line 21) with several beach hotels. Ibiza Shuttle Bus provides airport transfers by reservation; and although buses connect the airport to all Ibiza’s main resorts, many involve transfers in Ibiza Town.

Where to Stay in the Balearic Islands

Castillo Hotel Son Vida This 13th-century hilltop castle in a subtropical park lies minutes from four of Mallorca’s best destination golf courses. Carrer Raixa 2, Son Vida, Palma, Mallorca $$$$

Gran Hotel Son Net The opulently elegant boutique hotel in a 1672 stone villa with handcrafted furnishings sits under the Sierra Tramuntana Mountains. Carrer Castillo de Sonnet, Puigpunyent, Mallorca $$$$

Hotel Mirador de Dalt Vila Surrounded by historic city walls, the 19th-century town house offers 12 luxurious guestrooms with impeccable details and service. Plaza de España 4, Ibiza Town, Ibiza $$$$

Restaurants in the Balearic Islands

Can Curreu Restaurant Dine on the terrace, enjoying perfectly prepared traditional local dishes with a contemporary accent. Can Curreu Rural Hotel & Spa, Av. De s’Argamassa, Santa Eulalia, Ibiza $$$

Can Simoneta Restaurant Based on fresh ingredients from the 5-star hotel’s own gardens, dinners are served on a terrace overlooking the bay. Hotel Can Simoneta, Carretera Artà-Canyamel Km 8, Finca Torre Canyamel, Capdepera, Mallorca $$$

Simply Fosh Restaurant The airy and contemporary minimalist style of the restaurant complements the modern takes on Mediterranean cuisine. Carrer de la Missió 7A, Palma, Mallorca $$$

Read more about diving in Formentera.

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