Whatever brings you to Saudi Arabia, chances are it isn’t the nightlife. The kingdom is not renowned for nocturnal frivolity. When the working day ends, most business travelers resign themselves to the facilities within their hotel.

In the more conservative Saudi cities, leisure options are limited. Not so in Jeddah. The great Red Sea port has always been Arabia’s window on the world, serving as a hub for international trade and also as the main staging post for pilgrims heading to Mecca, 40 miles inland. Jeddah is the most open and cosmopolitan city in Saudi Arabia.

Having said that, don’t expect to find any bars here. Alcohol is illegal. Be prepared to dress conservatively (women must completely cover their arms, legs and hair; men should always wear long pants). Saudi Arabia is one of the world’s most conservative countries. Same-sex relationships are illegal, so LGBT travelers need to proceed with extreme caution. Ironically, it is common to see Saudi men holding hands and even greeting each other with kisses. Similar public displays of affection between heterosexual couples are outlawed, and only married couples can legally share a hotel room.

Daily life pauses five times a day for prayers. After the sunset prayer (usually around 6 p.m.), mingle with the locals on the Corniche, the 20-mile-long promenade that runs the length of Jeddah’s waterfront.

The Corniche is one of the most laid-back spots in the whole of Saudi Arabia and a perfect place to savor the soothing sea breeze after the ferocious heat of the day. Here you can enjoy snacks and drinks from the many local vendors while marveling at one of the world’s greatest collections of outdoor sculptures. More than 400 works are on display, including celebrated pieces by Henry Moore, Alexander Calder and Joan Miró.

For sheer spectacle, nothing beats the offshore King Fahd’s Fountain, which jets a shimmering plume of water more than 1,000 feet into the air. As darkness falls, the fountain is impressively illuminated by 500 spotlights.

If echoes of The Arabian Nights persist anywhere in Jeddah, you’ll find them in the historic district of Al-Balad. The area is at its best at night, when the temperature is less severe and the lights blaze from within the myriad shops of the souks. One of the most interesting of these old markets is Souq al-Alawi.

The city’s most prestigious thoroughfare is Tahlia Street, lined with high-end boutiques and cafés. At night, it is also a popular place for young Saudi men to show off their expensive cars. If Jeddah has a nighttime soundtrack, it is the guttural roar of Lamborghinis and Ferraris.