One of the most modern, cosmopolitan and exciting cities in the world, Barcelona is chock-full of culture, commerce and high-tech energy. Ever since the 1992 Summer Olympics here, this stylish and prosperous capital of Catalonia has continued to reinvent and renew itself. Travelers of all ages flock to this sensual city by the sea to bask in its culture, revel in its architecture and enjoy myriad diversions including bullfighting, shopping, theater, cabaret and nightlife.

This sun-drenched city, which is best experienced in early autumn, comprises two distinct sections: the Gothic Quarter, which is the old city between Placa de Catalunya and the port; and L’Eixample, home to most of the modernist architecture that gives Barcelona its patina and charm. Las Ramblas — a metaphor for Barcelona with its sea of movement, people and commerce — is the must-see boulevard that cuts through the old city and ends at the Mediterranean Sea.

City streets are designed for walking. The Placa de Catalunya is a good spot to use for home base, since the tourist office is here. The large downtown square is a central point for buses and the subway, as well as a boundary for L’Eixample, Port Veil and the Gothic Quarter. The regional transit authority is installing radar systems to check traffic speed in high-risk tunnels and roads to keep the streets safe for pedestrians. And for visitors who love open spaces, Barcelona is a vista of dreams: among the homes, al fresco cafes and contemporary-art museums, Barcelona has more trees than any other city in Spain (it also has more shops per inhabitant than any other city in Europe).

Economically, Barcelona is thriving. The city has become a mecca for architecture, culture and fine dining. This romantic port city of more than 1.5 million people is a vibrant mix of business and politics. Retail is flourishing, with trendy boutiques and home furnishings stores; and the art museums and cathedrals are some of the finest in the world. This rich and diverse city is enjoying a golden age as the epicenter of design, fashion and leisure for all of the western Mediterranean.

Barcelona prides itself on its place as a commercial hub and a city on the rise. In fact, the mayor is in talks with members of the U.S. Congress to strengthen economic relations. So Americans can feel safe and secure in a city that is both prosperous, electric and modern, yet calm, orderly and old world in its sensibilities.

Through more than 2,000 years of a complex history — including 40 years of language and religious repression under Franco’s rule — Barcelona’s native Catalan language has endured. While most residents are bilingual in Castilian Spanish and Catalan, the latter remains the predominant tongue. Residents are proud of their heritage, a fact that is readily apparent to tourists visiting the city.

LODGING

From new boutique hotels to luxury high-rises, to architecturally stunning edifices, small inns, pensiones and hostales (simple, but comfortable accommodations), Barcelona hotels are among the nicest in Spain. But don’t come here looking for megaresorts: Barcelona’s lodging is as design driven as its cultural and retail architecture is.

CASA CAMPER

This brand-new, 25-room boutique hotel is owned by Camper, the Spanish footwear company. Funky and stylized, Casa Camper was created by architect Fernando Amat, who also designed the interiors of Vinçon, the fascinating retail design store here. The public reception area in Casa Camper has a series of suitcases behind a wall of frosted glass and romantic votive candelabras. Guestrooms are uniquely partitioned, with a bedroom on one side of the hallway and a lounge on the other, to give cohabitating guests independence from one another. There are also standard suites. $$$
CASA CAMPER
11 Carrer Elisabets
tel 34 93 342 6280
www.casacamper.com

HOTEL ARTS BARCELONA
This luxury landmark, with its 44-story glass tower, is perhaps the finest hotel in Barcelona, ideally located to offer views of the Mediterranean Sea, Port Olimpic and Frank Gehry’s fish sculpture. Attractive to business travelers, it is only 10 minutes from Barcelona Airport (BCN), and offers sophisticated club floors with gourmet fare and drinks. All 455 rooms, including suites and deluxe apartments, are decorated with fine art and have two independent phone lines, fax, dataports, voicemail and satellite TV. The marble baths are elegant, and the hotel cuisine is served with Mediterranean flair. $$$$
HOTEL ARTS BARCELONA
19-21 Carrer de la Marina
tel 800 241 3333, fax 34 93 221 1070
www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/barcelona

HOTEL CLARIS

Chic, elegant and close to the city center, this six-story, 124-room hotel has retained the facade of the 19th century Vedruna Palace, which looks like a jewel box from old-world Europe. Hotel Claris has a rooftop swimming pool and fitness gym, glass elevators, a stylish restaurant inspired by the art of Andy Warhol and a small museum showcasing pre-Columbian art. Superbly appointed guestrooms marry antique furniture with contemporary art. $$$$
HOTEL CLARIS
150 Pau Claris
tel 34 93 487 6262, fax 34 93 215 7970
www.derbyhotels.com

DINING

People dine late in Barcelona. With experimental, often daring cooking, Barcelona is the hot new venue for Europe’s most exciting cuisine. Catalonia is one of two of Spain’s epicurean centers; Basque country around San Sebastian is the other. While some of the region’s more avant-garde dining is located a couple of hours away from Barcelona proper, there are many fine restaurants, ranging from tapas bars to five-star extravaganzas, right in town.

CASA ISIDORO

This classic Catalan eatery offers traditional dishes in a refined, old-world setting. Try roast baby goat with wild mushrooms, and enjoy the rewards of having Las Ramblas markets nearby. This is a first-rate, old-time favorite restaurant, popular with locals and tourists. $$$$
CASA ISIDORO
12 Carrer de las Flores
tel 34 93 441 1139, fax 34 93 442 5271

CAN MAJO
This place for great fish and creative stews offers a delightful Catalan bouillabaisse. Specialties include gooseneck barnacles and crab paella. Fresh desserts never disappoint. One sure way to gauge quality? Chefs from other Barcelona restaurants often dine here on their off nights. Rest assured, you can’t go wrong here for a great meal with wine in the oldest Catalan tradition. $$$$
CAN MAJO
23 Carrer de L’Almirall Aixada
tel 34 93 221 5455

VIA VENETO

One of the city’s top restaurants, this charming international respite offered a special Salvador Dali “surreal” dessert last year to pay homage to the local artistic genius. Epicurean diners will love the great wines from all over the world, served with exotic dishes such as zucchini swimming in goose-liver sauce (especially if they are on an expense account!). The fascinating decor looks like Jules Verne’s Nautilus. $$$$
VIA VENETO
10 Carrer Ganduxer
tel 34 93 200 7244, fax 34 93 201 6095
www.viavenetorestaurant.com

NIGHTLIFE

For those who like the late-night scene, Barcelona has everything from street performers to small bars and cafes, to wild dance clubs that rival those of South Beach. You might even pass Calista Flockhart or Harrison Ford on the street. Don’t miss Cafe de l’Opera (74 Rambla dels Caputxins) for more people watching and the obligatory late-night brandy; or the Gothic Quarter’s La Cava del Palau (169 Bailen), an upscale Champagne bar with great snacks; or Els Quatre Gats (3-5 Montsio), Picasso’s old hangout, specializing in great beer, good food, old-world furnishings and fine art. In L’Eixample, the 24-hour Drugstore (71 Passeig de Gracia) offers a complete entertainment center with bar, restaurant, food store, pool tables and shops. Late-night clubs can be expensive, but are worth a few hours of fun. The famous old-style La Paloma dance hall (27 Tigre) doesn’t get rocking with rumba till 1 a.m., so be sure to sip some strong espresso to stay awake until the party starts.

SIGHTSEEING

Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926), the eccentric Barcelona architect who combined elaborate decoration with inventive building methods, created the Sagrada Familia Cathedral (401 Calle Mallorca, tel 34 93 207 3031), with tall knobby towers offering amazing views of the city. Several public buildings are not to be missed, including Casa Batllo (43 Passeig de Gracia, tel 34 93 216 0306, www.casabatllo.es), a private home renovated by Gaudi. Next door is the Casa Amatller (tel 34 93 488 0139), with information about Gaudi and other modernist architects. Visit Caixa Forum, a contemporary art center (6-8 Avenida Marques de Comillas, tel 34 90 222 3040), located in an art nouveau textile factory; the Picasso Museum (15-23 Montcada, tel 34 93 319 6310), featuring works from the artist’s young and vibrant days; Palau de la Musica Catalana (2 Sant Francesc de Paula, tel 34 93 295 7200, www.palaumusica.org), the masterpiece of art nouveau stained glass; and the Cathedral (Placa de la Seu, tel 34 93 315 1554), a magical edifice where Catalonians gather on weekends to perform their native dance demonstrating Catalan pride. Shoppers should visit stores in L’Eixample, Diagonal and Ciutat Vella areas for ready-to-wear clothing, design, home furnishings and accessories. There are also one-of-a-kind hip boutiques, artist studios and tiny bars interspersed among the larger stores.

INFO TO GO

Flights arrive at Barcelona Airport (BCN), which links to the city via a variety of modes of transportation. Take the Aerobus Barcelona Shuttle (less than $5, tel 34 90 642 7017) to the city center, Placa de Catalunya. The same trip by Airport Taxi (tel 34 93 303 3033) costs about $25. Another option, the Renfe train (tel 34 90 224 0202), costs about $3. Many U.S. travelers fly to Madrid (MAD), then take another plane to Barcelona. Smaller aircraft can fly into Girona Airport Barcelona (GRO), about one hour and 20 minutes away. Arriving passengers can then take a bus or train, or rent a car, for easy access to Barcelona.