In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion ruled the sky. Celebrity designers dressed flight attendants in colorful silks, psychedelic patterns and clingy dresses sporting hems as high as the times. It was quite the event to board a plane, and passengers came dressed for the occasion.

Even at 30,000 feet, on cramped overnight flights across the Atlantic, style and sophistication were never compromised. Men dressed in suits and ties; women donned their Sunday best; and flight attendants were stylish: Their attire had come a long way from the drab, green, military-style skirt-suit uniforms of the 1930s.

Things change. Today, more people fly more often, and the once requisite glitz and glam have been replaced by what’s practical and comfortable.

Many airlines are now on a mission to return to the fashion forefront as they enlist such famous designers as Richard Tyler, Kate Spade and Christian Lacroix to outfit flight crews in the top styles of today.

“It used to be that airline uniforms actually set trends in fashion,” said Cliff Muskiet, a Netherlands-based flight attendant for KLM Royal Dutch Airlines. A collector, Muskiet owns about 300 female flight attendant uniforms from carriers around the globe. “Remember the hot pants, miniskirts and short A-line dresses?”

Wait a minute!Hot pants?

“In those days, stewardesses and their uniforms were used as marketing tools to attract passengers.”

The most famous example is now-defunct Braniff International Airways. The brain behind the airline’s success in the 1960s was marketing genius Mary Wells Lawrence, who came up with the idea of painting the airline’s fleet of planes seven different colors to keep Braniff distinct from its competition. She also hired the famous Emilio Pucci, a one-time pilot better known for dressing the rich and famous, to make the carrier more appealing and distinct by revamping the look of its uniforms.

And revamp is exactly what Pucci did. The newly fashion-forward Braniff ladies were soon known as the best-looking, sexiest women in the air. They flaunted their style in shifts and silk A-line minidresses in bold colors — turquoise,parrot green,purple — and patterns — psychedelic swirls,circles, swooshes. Pucci even put Braniff ladies flying the Iceland and Greenland routes in full-length fur coats — a gesture totally unfathomable today. The thought process? If the crew looks good, they’ll be friendlier and happier. That, in turn, makes for a more pleasant flight experience — a concept not lost on the era’s male passengers.

Braniff made its mark, and other airlines followed its lead, hiring designers to soften the look of the often matronly uniforms of the day. Hemlines crept up. Necklines dropped down. And brilliant splashes of color highlighted the new look.

Jean Louis, for example, designed the bright orange minidresses and matching hats (that, incidentally, were perched high on the head like hot-dog-on-a-stick hats)that became the 1968 uniform for United Airlines. Allegheny Airline attendants sported short white dresses with the airline’s name scrawled across the uniform in different typefaces. Sabena Belgian World Airlines spiced things up by changing uniform designs and colors every couple of years, always making sure to keep things fresh while keeping flight attendants looking and feeling great. Quite fashion-forward for the time.

That’s not to say that some airlines didn’t take a more conservative approach. SAS Scandinavian Airlines didn ’t drop the neckline, but it did pump up the volume with bright green, ear-flapped hats. KLM Royal Dutch Airlines added some patterns and accessories (a belt and half-moon cap), but stayed classy with a double-breasted jacket. Then, there were the airlines that, in deference to local culture, stayed the course. Pakistani Airlines enlisted Pierre Cardin in the 1970s to update its flight crew’s traditional look. The result? A beautifully classic tunic-and-trousers ensemble.

Fads fade as quickly as they appear. The “sex sells” mentality of the 1960s and early 1970s gave way to more classic styling. With award-winning American designer Roy Frowick Halston at the helm, in-flight fashion took a turn toward conservative lines and quiet colors. What did stick was the penchant for hiring top designers — especially, if not almost exclusively — among European carriers.

Through the years, Air France has tapped such world-class couturiers as Christian Dior, Nina Ricci and Cristobal Balenciaga to design its crew uniforms. Next up, Air France has hired Christian Lacroix to take on the task of tweaking uniforms for 35,000 employees. The new style, set to debut next spring, will maintain the navy blue color, but will be sleeker in fit, and have more jacket and trouser options.

Two years ago, Lufthansa introduced new uniforms with a retro appeal. Designed by German fashion powerhouse Strenesse, ensembles for female flight attendants include a stylish blazer or elegant summer dress in dark blue highlighted by the airline’s signature yellow, silver gray and white, topped off with a pillbox hat similar to those worn by flight crews in the 1960s.

British Airways and Alitalia are two more airlines known for stylish uniforms. British Airways enlisted Julien MacDonald, whose incredible design background includes positions at Chanel and Givenchy, among other top fashion houses. British Airways’ new look, which springs into action in early 2005, is a classically tailored pinstriped suit — with a flair. The design includes branded cufflink buttons and splashes of bright red.

In the 1970s, Alitalia turned first to Mila Schon, who originated the airline’s green uniforms, then followed up with red. Subsequently, Italian couturier Renato Balestra switched things up with the green-and-blue combo flight attendants wore from 1986 to 1991. Giorgio Armani then made his mark with a very elegant and minimal look that complemented 1990s’ fashion sense. Mondrian from the Nadini Group is the creator of Alitalia’s current, military-inspired, green-and-blue uniforms.

Yves Saint Laurent mixed it up with stripes and other patterns for the uniforms Qantas flight attendants wore from the late 1980s to the early 1990s. More recently, the Australian airline turned to countryman Peter Morrissey to update its look. The famous fashion designer’s line of sleek black suits and dresses debuted last year to much applause.

Cathay Pacific hired Eddie Lau of Hong Kong to refresh its look, while Austrian Airlines turned to Sabine Kreuzspiegl, a graduate of Vienna’s highly acclaimed Academy of the Applied Arts who studied under Karl Lagerfeld (of Chanel fame), to breathe new life and style back into its flight attendants’ uniforms. The result? A sleek, red, vest and pants combo accessorized with red leather gloves that earns Austrian’s flight attendants best-dressed kudos.

All well and good for international carriers, but where do U.S. airlines stand in the fashion showdown?

“U.S. carriers used to have beautiful uniforms. The 1980 Pan Am uniform was a nice sky blue color and Northwest Airlines had burgundy red uniforms in the 1980s,” says Muskiet, whose collection is displayed on www.uniformfreak.com. “Now, when you put 10 flight attendants from 10 very different U.S. carriers in a row, you hardly see the difference in uniform.

“Most are dark blue with white shirts…very boring and conservative.”

Uniform styling for U.S.airlines does appear to have morphed into one generically staid look. Muskiet longs for the old days — the 1960s and 1970s — when standard outfits included a hat, gloves and accessories. It appears his wish is coming true.

Song, Delta’s new low-fare airline, is decking its crew in high-style threads. The airline, whose primary demographic is female leisure travelers between the ages of 34 and 56, tapped preppy-chic husband-wife design team Kate and Andy Spade to create uniforms for its flight attendants. With Kate on point for the women’s line and Andy looking out for the men, the designs — which debuted to much fanfare — feature a classic-yet-contemporary style that plays up Song’s signature colors, green and blue. For the women, the Spades created an elegantly simple, sleeveless, gray-and-parrot-green wool dress. Men don flat-front, tan, wool trousers; green-striped, short-sleeved, knit shirts; and white — yes, white — slip-on loafers. Both ensembles feature accessories in the form of handbags and totes, luggage, shoes and even sunglasses.

Not to be outdone by its new sibling, Delta Air Lines recently signed Richard Tyler to update its fashion profile. Tyler, whose couture has graced the likes of Julia Roberts, Diane Keaton and Catherine Zeta-Jones, usually rakes in upward of $4,000 per piece.

“There are many airlines for customers to choose from,” said Tyler, a Los Angeleno by way of Australia. “Service sets you apart. People who look good will be happier and perform their jobs better. They need to be comfortable in their uniforms to perform their jobs well, but they also need to feel that they look good. They want to be distinguished.”

While Tyler’s fashions for Delta won’t debut until spring 2006, he did share some insight regarding design direction.

“Both the employees and the customers notice that the uniforms lack distinction,” he said. “I plan to use a more breathable, functional fabric. The style will be in the cut and the detail. I’m also going to choose a color that is both modern and timeless.”

Designers may have differing creative opinions, but many — Julien MacDonald, Christian Lacroix, Kate Spade, Richard Tyler — agree it’s time for the return of glitz, dazzle and excitement in the air.

“My designs for Song are inspired by the glamour days of air travel,” Kate Spade has said of her creative vision. “That was a time when both the flight staff and travelers showed up on the tarmac with incredible style…I’m excited to help bring an easy sense of sophistication and polish back to air travel.”