If you visit Dublin this year, smoke probably won’t get in your eyes, but you’re likely to hear grumbling from pub-goers. Ireland’s new smoking ban carries stiff fines. It’s a big deal because it applies not only to restaurants, but to pubs, the city’s social mainstay, where having a pint and a smoke is tradition, and a tobacco-clouded environment is as much a part of the ambience as the obligatory dark woodwork.

The capital city of the Emerald Isle has changed quickly in the past dozen years or so, moving from old and dumpy to modern and trendy. It’s far from the city James Joyce-whose centenary is being celebrated this year-described as “our dear, dirty Dublin.” But in the home of Joyce, George Bernard Shaw, William B. Yeats and Samuel Beckett, where traditions die hard, tourism officials see the smoking ban as a breath of fresh air, something that will enhance rather than detract from the visitor experience.

Tourism is, after all, big business here: about 5 percent of the economy, according to Paul O’Toole, chief executive of Tourism Ireland, which thanks to the Belfast Agreement represents the whole island, north and south. Other big businesses range from high-tech and pharmaceutical companies to Waterford Crystal. Also putting Dublin on the map this year is Ireland’s presidency of the European Union. Historic meetings such as the arrival of 10 former Eastern bloc states into the E.U. (in May), will take place in Ireland’s capital city.

Dublin is a hip, happening place, but manages to retain its original charm. Sure Temple Bar, the city’s self-proclaimed Left Bank, is artsy and trendy, but even the streets there are cobbled. Divided into north and south by the River Liffey, the city offers visitors views of noble public buildings, excellent museums, historic Trinity College (where the ninth century Book of Kells is displayed), surprisingly good international cuisine, world-class hotels and tempting shopping. And nightlife not only means pubs, but also a lively music scene-think U2, Van Morrison and The Chieftains-and world-renowned theater.

You can easily explore downtown on foot, but if you have the time, buy a ticket (about $16) for one of the hop-on/hop-off double-decker tourist buses. The buses take you to the top tourist sights, including the must-do Guinness Storehouse. The entire circuit takes about an hour and 15 minutes, and if you’re lucky, your guide will treat you to commentary with
attitude and a touch of blarney.

Where to Stay

The Merrion Dublin

The Merrion Dublin is a luxury property with location, location, location (a quiet yet central spot). The hotel’s façade is four Georgian townhouses, with most guestrooms in an attractive Garden Wing. The property is independently owned by a group of Irish businessmen, one of whom lent his extensive art collection-some 180 modern and traditional paintings and other art objects-for display. The 145 guestrooms and suites have luxury amenities including broadband. The hotel boasts sitting rooms with formal fireplaces (perfect for drinks or afternoon tea), gorgeous formal gardens, an indoor lap pool, a well-equipped gym and a spa. The Cellar Restaurant has a bar located in 18th century stone wine cellars, and Patrick Guilbaud, a Michelin two-star restaurant, is on the premises.
The Merrion Dublin, Upper Merrion Street
Dublin, Ireland, tel 01 603 0600
fax 01 603 0700, www.merrionhotel.com

The Westin Dublin

A new hotel in the city, The Westin occupies a block near Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland. While the façade is a bank building that dates to the 19th century, inside is a modern hotel with 163 luxury guestrooms and suites (ranging from junior to presidential) featuring traditional mahogany furnishings and the chain’s trademark Heavenly Bed. Some rooms overlook historic architecture, while others overlook the hotel’s five-floor atrium. The hotel has a fitness center, a stylish restaurant called The Exchange and a trendy bar, Mint Bar, located in the vaults of the original bank (an excellent place to enjoy a pint).
The Westin Dublin, At College Green
Westmoreland Street, Dublin, Ireland, tel 01 645 1000
fax 01 645 1234, www.westin.com/dublin

Morrison Hotel

Located across the River Liffey from Temple Bar, this four-star hotel was created with the help of Irish fashion designer John Rocha. The building incorporates an 18th century façade, but is
all about hip and trendy. The 90 rooms and suites are done up in neutral colors, with modern artwork and amenities that include Frette linens, state-of-the-art sound systems and bathrooms with limestone floors. The penthouse suite boasts a sunken Jacuzzi bath, steam room and sauna.
The hotel’s Halo Restaurant serves modern European cuisine; The Morrison Bar is a popular drinking spot overlooking the river; and hot spot Lobo draws a late-night crowd.
Morrison Hotel, Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin, Ireland
tel 01 887 2400, fax 01 874 4039, www.morrisonhotel.ie

Jurys Inn Christchurch

This 182-room, three-star budget property is located a few minutes from downtown, opposite Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin’s oldest building. The guestrooms are decently sized and
comfortable, if nothing special-think standard chain hotel. Amenities include hair dryers, coffee/tea makers and satellite TV. There’s an informal, reasonably priced restaurant and a lively pub.
Jurys Inn Christchurch, Christchurch Place
Dublin, Ireland, tel 01 607 0000, fax 01 631 0012
www.bookajurysinn.com

Where to Dine

Dublin is an excellent city for gourmands, who will find a culinary scene that goes way beyond traditional Irish pub fare (although you can still enjoy that, too).

There are two Michelin two-star restaurants in Dublin, but getting most of the attention these days is one-star Restaurant L’Ecrivain.

Restaurant L’Ecrivain

Chef Derry Clarke and his wife, Sallyanne, run this acclaimed, multistory restaurant, where the menu is for serious foodies, but the atmosphere is hip and friendly. You might start with pan-seared foie gras with pineapple and star anise fumet, followed by a seared veal cutlet served with onion tarte tatin, gremolata and potato galette with port wine beurre blanc, apple and raisin preserve, and finish with a heavenly dessert. Fixed-price lunch costs about $45 to $51 with a glass of wine. Fixed-price dinner costs about $83 with wine. You can also order a la carte.
Restaurant L’Ecrivain, 109a Lower Baggot St.
Dublin, Ireland, tel 661 1919, fax 661 0617
www.lecrivain.com

Eden

At this modern Temple Bar restaurant, the cuisine produced in the open kitchen is contemporary, with both Mediterranean and Irish flair. Enjoy excellent bouillabaisse, roast duck with red cabbage, and creative takes on fish pie and chicken with mash. Indoors, huge hanging plants complement the eatery’s name. Outdoor seating is available in summer. Brunch is served on weekends. The fixed-price lunch costs about $31 to $35 with a glass of wine. A three-course dinner costs $45 to $70.
Eden, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar
Dublin, Ireland, tel 353 1 670 5372, fax 353 1 677 4835
www.edenrestaurant.ie

The Gotham Café

Located just off Grafton Street, this popular, casual eatery serves up a slice of New York-sort of. The menu features thin-crust pizzas, pasta and salads, and New York-style cheesecake. Why the tasty Brooklyn Bridge Pizza features Thai toppings is a mystery. Lunch costs $23 to $32 with wine. A three-course dinner costs $29 to $43 with wine.
The Gotham Café, 8 S. Anne St., Dublin, Ireland
tel 01 679 5266

Where to Go

Pub crawling is a must-there are more than 1,000 pubs in the city. Pick one and walk right in. For conversation and atmosphere, try The Stag’s Head (1 Dame Court, off Dame Street, tel 01 679
3701), with stags’ heads on the walls; The Long Hall (51 S. Great George’s St., tel 01 475 1590), boasting pretty Victorian decor; and Brazen Head (20 Lower Bridge St., tel 01 677 9549), the city’s oldest pub. For traditional music, check out O’Donoghue’s
(15 Merrion Row, tel 01 660 7194).

The city also has acclaimed theater-The Abbey Theatre (Lower Abbey Street, tel 01 475 1572, www.nch.ie) celebrates its 100th anniversary this fall-and a lively club and music scene.

What to Buy

If money’s burning a hole in your pocket, head to pedestrianonly Grafton Street, where you’ll find a parade of boutiques, department stores and specialty shops including popular British brands. Fashionistas should visit the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, South William Street (just off Grafton), a mall that’s located in historic Georgian buildings. On the top floor is the Design Centre (tel 01 679 5718), with creations for women by Ireland’s top designers (the mall also has antiques shops and boutiques). Those in search of high-quality Irish products will want to check out Avoca, just off Grafton and across from Trinity College (tel 01 677 4215, fax 01 672 6021, www.avoca.ie), which stocks Irish fashions, home furnishings and food products. In nearby Temple Bar are secondhand stores, interesting boutiques and art, book and music shops. Antiques lovers will want to make the trek to Francis Street. Popular souvenirs are Celtic jewelry including Claddagh rings, Aran sweaters and other woolens and, of course, Waterford Crystal. Don’t forget to ask for your VAT tax refund forms (which you have to have stamped at the airport).

What to See

Temple Bar, the city’s hip cultural hub, information center at 12 E. Essex St. (tel 01 677 2255, fax 01 677 2525, www.templebar.ie)

Trinity College and the ninth century Book of Kells, College Street (tel 01 608 2320, fax 01 608 690, www.tcd.ie/Library)

The Guinness Storehouse, history of the black stuff and more, St. James Gate (tel 01 408 4800, fax 01 408 4965, www.guinness-storehouse.com)

St. Stephen’s Green, bucolic center-city Victorian park (tel 01 475 7816, fax 01 4755287)

Kilmainham Gaol, historic jail where leaders of the 1916 Rising were detained, Inchicore Road (tel 01 453 5984, fax 01 453 2037, www.heritageireland.ie)

Want to Go

Dublin International Airport (IE) (tel 01 814 1111, www.dublinairport.com) is about seven miles north of downtown. A cab ride into the city costs about $31. The Aircoach bus (01 844 7118, www.aircoach.ie) operates about every 15 minutes between the airport and the city center (with several stops near key businesses and hotels). The fare is about $6.25 one way. Once in the city, public buses (about $1) are an easy alternative to cabs. Those brave enough to rent a car and drive on the left side of the road should note the city is torn up with construction for a Light Rail commuter train. The airport boasts what you’d expect of a modern facility, including lots of shopping opportunities (pick up last-minute Waterford Crystal and discounted 12-packs of Guinness). Aer Lingus and several major U.S. carriers operate flights between U.S. gateways and Dublin. On flights to the United States, a big bonus is getting to clear U.S. customs and immigration in Dublin (or Shannon for flights that stop there), meaning you save time when you get home.

Travel Tip: If you don’t want to do the pubs on your own, try the Jameson Literary Pub Crawl (tel 01 670 5602,www.dublinpubcrawl.com), which takes groups nightly (Thurs.-Sun. in winter) to pubs linked to Ireland’s literary greats. Tickets cost about $12.50 and are available at Duke Pub on Duke Street (they go on sale at 7 p.m.), or in advance at the Dublin Tourism Centre on Suffolk Street.

Travel Tip: At the Dublin Tourism Centre, formerly St. Andrew’s Church on Suffolk Street, you can get maps and brochures, make theater and tour reservations and even book a rental car.