As I enter the lobby of le Riad at Club Med Marrakech La Palmeraie, I’m greeted by a staff member dressed in a tan djellaba and green scarf. He escorts me to a sofa with pillows adorned with the Moroccan chevron. Then, in a traditional ritual, he pours rose-scented water from a silver kettle onto my hands, before offering me a crescent-shaped cookie served in a tiny tagine.

It’s part of the check-in process at le Riad, the upscale enclave within the resort located in La Palmeraie, a 54-square-mile region about 25 minutes outside the medina dotted with resorts, camels and more than 100,000 palm trees. I’d never been to a Club Med property before, and this was already squashing the stereotypes I heard decades ago about bare-bone rooms and guests having to swap beads for drinks.

As I learned a few days later from Henri Giscard d’Estaing, president of the brand that pioneered the concept of the all-inclusive vacation 70 years ago, that’s by design. While families may be drawn to the brand because of kid-focused amenities and activities, Club Med also has a renewed focus on curating vacations for luxury-seekers.

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Le Riad, one of Club Med’s Exclusive Collection Spaces, is one such experience, a resort within a resort that feels decidedly exclusive. After my individual check-in, I was personally escorted to my accommodation, a sprawling suite with white- and terracotta-glazed Zellige tiles, luxurious textiles and other authentic touches throughout, including stamped golden fixtures, hanging lanterns with cut-out patterns and embossed mirrors. A separate living area by the entrance was outfitted with a banquette sofa and the bathroom had dual bowl vanities; a bathtub wrapped in marble; separate shower room; and adjacent closet, shelves and vanity. The white-leather headboard behind the king-sized bed was framed by intricate carved wood, and a cozy built-in loveseat was set underneath a tri-fold window. Outside on the patio, a conversation set situated underneath a pergola filtered out the intense Moroccan sun, and overlooked lush vegetation and palm trees. Renovated in 2021, le Riad is a stunning private oasis inside a real one.

As an homage to an authentic riad, where rooms surround a courtyard and pool, the focal point at le Riad is the tranquil swimming pool, bedecked with small tiles in various shades of blue, ample loungers and shade provided by both umbrellas and the fronds of all those tall palms. Adjacent is an à la carte restaurant and bar available only to Riad guests, with specialties like spicy shakshuka and crispy pancakes called baghrir for breakfast. There’s also spreads, grilled whole fish and zaalouk (eggplant salad) for lunch. I also had great fun sampling the various vins gris on the menu, Morocco’s version of rosé produced in a light, quaffable style befitting the climate. (Unless you prefer your cocktails on the sweet side, you’re better off sticking to local and French wines at the resort’s restaurants and bars.)

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While guests staying in other areas of the resort don’t have access to amenities at le Riad, there’s reciprocity for Riad guests to enjoy everything, including the other pools and two restaurants. El Kebir’s menu features skewers, tabbouleh and daily specials like herbed lamb chops, chicken, fish and beef tagines. The main restaurant, La Palmeraie, is buffet-style — but don’t let that scare you off. Stations are replenished with local and international specialties, and design elements are as striking and well-thought-out as those throughout the rest of the property, with dramatic cone-shaped pendants hanging from the ceiling, stone columns and a massive copper range hood flanked by gilded tiles. There’s lots of seating inside, but it’s prettier to dine al fresco at a table set amid the olive trees.

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Since Club Med perfected the all-inclusive vacation, there’s a staggering number of activities each day offered at no additional charge and organized and led by friendly staff members called Gentle Organizers. You can take group lessons in tennis, archery, golf or flying trapeze; have access to the driving range or nine-hole pitch and putt; sweat it out in a fitness class or a guided bike ride; play beach volleyball, badminton or bridge; or attend a cooking class. One morning I took a yoga class (in French) on the peaceful pavilion, with the chirping of the common bulbuls adding to my Zen.

As heavenly a sojourn here is, though, being isolated from the souks and sights in one of the world’s most vibrant cities may elicit a little FOMO. Luckily, le Riad’s dedicated concierge can book tours or excursions to soak in the region’s culture. One afternoon we visited the famous Majorelle Garden, a 2-acre botanical garden built by French artist Jacque Majorelle and purchased in the 1980s by Yves Saint-Laurent and his business partner. Another day, I donned a cobalt blue djellaba and shesh to ride a camel through the nearby palm groves; my guide captured the moment in a zillion photos and videos on my smartphone and gave me a ring woven from palm fronds during my ride.

On my last day, as I hopped into the golf cart to be shuttled to the resort’s main lobby where my private transport to the medina was waiting, a staff member handed me one of the tightly wrapped bouquets of roses gifted to departing guests. Later, I arranged them in a makeshift vase in my room in a riad just a block away from the bustling souks. After I returned from a fun afternoon strolling the stalls, seeing those flowers was a sweet reminder of the few days I spent luxuriating in a whole different side of Marrakech.

Club Med Marrakech La Palmeraie

Sidi Yahya La Palmeraie
Marrakech 40000, Morocco
tel 212 5244 25800