Best Of GT: Cuisine

May 1, 2013
2013 / May 2013

Breaking bread. It’s a gesture of friendship that spans generations, cultures and miles. Food is a common denominator connecting humans through the ages. Sharing food can be a gesture of love, compassion, kindness or charity.

I’ve been featuring chefs and sharing their recipes in our Cuisine (formerly Bon Vivant) column for almost 10 years, and the one theme that repeats over and over again is family. Almost without exception, every chef I interviewed cited a family connection that led to his or her chosen career: sweet memories of working in the family garden or learning to make cupcakes at their grandmother’s side. Some came from a long line of accomplished home cooks, while others were pioneers, learning to cook by necessity.

Commonality of the food experience, however, doesn’t mean we all speak the same culinary language. A delicacy in one part of the world may be considered taboo someplace else. Savoring the taste of even well-known foods can be challenging when the presentation is unexpected.

One of my most memorable dining experiences was also, for just a minute or two, one my most uncomfortable dining experiences.

It was late 2004. My husband, Kevin, and I were at Les Ambassadeurs, the fine-dining establishment at the legendary Hôtel de Crillon* in Paris. We were in the midst of savoring a decadent multicourse luncheon prepared by Chef Jean-François Piège. In his mid-30s at the time, Piège was already building a world-class reputation. His mentor, renowned chef Alain Ducasse, described him as a chef who “embodies French savoir-faire and the French art of living.”

The attentive staff had just cleared our table between courses when we noticed a muted flurry of activity. Piège and his colleagues were approaching our table holding what, through the haze of time, I recall as an ornate box. (It may have been simple, but we were so out of our element in that moment, the memory is like a dream sequence.) They placed the box on the table and opened it with a flourish. We gazed at the contents: at first glance, a nondescript spongy mass. It took a beat or two for us to realize we were looking at a very expensive, very large truffle, slices of which we’d enjoy with our next course.

© Valentyn75 | Dreamstime.com

© Valentyn75 | Dreamstime.com

How to react? We were baffled. We’re adept at faking our way through the swirls and sips involved in a restaurant wine tasting, but this was a whole different situation. Do we sniff? Do we touch? Do we reverently bow our approval? Truth is, we muddled our way through the entire series of reactions hoping we hit the right tone. Chef Piège, who spoke little English at the time (although far better than my elementary French), and his staff seemed satisfied. We breathed a sigh of relief. The rest of our meal was perfect.

I look back now at my columns from the past decade and realize each one — each chef — triggers a fond memory. Chef James Overbaugh at The Peninsula Beverly Hills, a native New Englander, surprised me when he recalled his earliest culinary inspiration: watching his Yankee grandfather cook Chinese food in an old and battered metal wok.

Then there’s Chef Michael Fiorelli at mar’sel, the signature eatery at Terranea Resort and Spa in Ranchos Palos Verdes, Calif., an accomplished chef and aspiring writer who satisfies both interests via his passion for cookbooks.

And I’ll always have a soft spot in my heart for Chef Fabrice Guisset, who joined us for a pre-dinner cocktail then returned to the kitchen to prepare the perfect seaside dinner celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary at Las Ventanas al Paraíso in Los Cabos, Mexico.

Speaking of seaside repasts, I must include Chef Greg Lamm in this retrospective. In the spring of 2007, at about the same time the television show Iron Chef America was reaching the height of its popularity, Kevin and I were enjoying an alfresco dinner while watching a spectacular sunset off the coast of Maui. The meal and the setting — The Westin Maui Resort’s beachfront Tropica Restaurant — were perfect. Maybe it was the wine. Maybe I was just feeling silly. More likely it’s because at the time I really wanted to be a judge on the Iron Chef panel.

In my best Iron Chef judge voice, I began critiquing each dish — all positive comments, but still assuming Kevin was my only audience within earshot. Camping it up, fork in hand, I noticed someone out of the corner of my eye. Chef Lamm was standing right behind me. Happily, I learned he’s not only an accomplished chef. He also has a genuine sense of humor.

* Closed for renovations, Hôtel de Crillon will reopen in 2015.

Introducing

FX Excursions

FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.

© Ukrphoto | Dreamstime.com

News
Sep 15, 2019

Cunard Launches Exclusive Musical

Cunard premiered the musical Top Hat aboard Queen Victoria last week. Next week, the musical premieres aboard Queen Elizabeth. The musical is slated to appear exclusively on Cunard ships for the next four years.

© GNTO

The Island of the Knights

Welcome to Rhodes, a medieval treasure beautifully preserved throughout the centuries. Rhodes is the capital of the Dodecanese, an island ideal not only for those who want to relax, but also for those looking for an action-packed holiday! With its bright green hills, rich green valleys and uninterrupted line of golden beaches, Rhodes is truly a blessed place. “The sun island” has more sunshiny days and milder temperatures throughout the year than any other location in Greece. It is, after all, one of the country’s easternmost places and among the first to welcome summer on its impressive beaches. Add in the excellent facilities for tourism, the island’s special blend of cosmopolitan and traditional, and numerous cultural and archaeological sites, the most important being the Medieval (Old) Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you’ve got the perfect holiday destination. While on Rhodes, don’t miss a daytrip to nearby Sými. An island of sponge divers and seamen, Sými used to have 30,000 inhabitants before the Second World War and was the richest island in the Dodecanese, despite its small size. Today, Sými attracts many visitors thanks to its beautifully preserved Neo-Classical buildings and the famous Archangel Michael monastery at Panormitis.

Lufthansa. Photo: Alexander Efisko | Dreamstime.com

Feature
Sep 15, 2019

Lufthansa Launches Innovative Carbon Offset Program

Lufthansa is starting an innovative new carbon offset program, Compensaid, which will allow customers to purchase CO2 neutral aviation fuels. The platform allows customers to replace the fossil fuel of their flights with sustainable aviation fuel.

Desert. Photo: Galyna Andrushko | Dreamstime.com

Daily
Sep 15, 2019

Shop New Desert-Inspired Capsule Collection From The Luxury Collection

The Luxury Collection again teamed with artist Sofía Sanchez de Beta to unveil an exclusive capsule collection, this time with 54 pieces inspired by the Arabian Desert and Emirati culture. The ready-to-wear line includes an array of separates created with Dubai’s climate in mind, such as lightweight blouses and tunics, flowing jumpsuits, long skirts and dresses.

To New Heights

United Airlines announces a number of new routes.

LG Pay. Photo: Piotr Swat | Dreamstime.com

Feature
Sep 14, 2019

LG Pay

With more mobile pay options like Apple Pay and Venmo becoming commonplace, electronics manufacturer LG is getting in on the action.

Hawaiian Airlines. Photo: Ajdibilio | Dreamstime.com

© Brett Critchley | Dreamstime.com

Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas. Photo: Jason P Ross | Dreamstime.com

Santa Monica, California. Photo: Tupungato | Dreamstime.com

© GNTO

The Island of the Knights

Sponsored Content

Google Search. Photo: Viorel Dudau | Dreamstime.com

Feature
Sep 13, 2019

Google Expands Price Comparison Tool

Google announced last month it added additional features to its price comparison tool. The tool helps users plan trips and compare rates. The new features include one that shows whether the price of a planned flight plus accommodations is low, average or high.

© VanderWolfImages | Dreamstime.com

News
Sep 13, 2019

Singapore Airlines Begins Non-Stop Service Between Singapore, Seattle

Singapore Airlines launched its non-stop service between Singapore (SIN) and Seattle (SEA), Sept. 3. Seattle is Singapore Airlines’ fourth U.S. destination following Los Angeles (LAX), New York (EWR) and San Francisco (SFO) to receive non-stop service to and from Singapore.

Beach access ramp for wheelchair on South Beach, Miami. Photo: Alkan2011 | Dreamstime.com

Daily
Sep 13, 2019

Florida Beaches Put Accessibility First

For those without accessibility issues, going to the beach can be simple. There’s nothing to do but pack up your gear, head to the shore and walk out onto the sand. For those who may be inhibited, however, the beach poses more of a challenge.