Breaking bread. It’s a gesture of friendship that spans generations, cultures and miles. Food is a common denominator connecting humans through the ages. Sharing food can be a gesture of love, compassion, kindness or charity.
I’ve been featuring chefs and sharing their recipes in our Cuisine (formerly Bon Vivant) column for almost 10 years, and the one theme that repeats over and over again is family. Almost without exception, every chef I interviewed cited a family connection that led to his or her chosen career: sweet memories of working in the family garden or learning to make cupcakes at their grandmother’s side. Some came from a long line of accomplished home cooks, while others were pioneers, learning to cook by necessity.
Commonality of the food experience, however, doesn’t mean we all speak the same culinary language. A delicacy in one part of the world may be considered taboo someplace else. Savoring the taste of even well-known foods can be challenging when the presentation is unexpected.
One of my most memorable dining experiences was also, for just a minute or two, one my most uncomfortable dining experiences.
It was late 2004. My husband, Kevin, and I were at Les Ambassadeurs, the fine-dining establishment at the legendary Hôtel de Crillon* in Paris. We were in the midst of savoring a decadent multicourse luncheon prepared by Chef Jean-François Piège. In his mid-30s at the time, Piège was already building a world-class reputation. His mentor, renowned chef Alain Ducasse, described him as a chef who “embodies French savoir-faire and the French art of living.”
The attentive staff had just cleared our table between courses when we noticed a muted flurry of activity. Piège and his colleagues were approaching our table holding what, through the haze of time, I recall as an ornate box. (It may have been simple, but we were so out of our element in that moment, the memory is like a dream sequence.) They placed the box on the table and opened it with a flourish. We gazed at the contents: at first glance, a nondescript spongy mass. It took a beat or two for us to realize we were looking at a very expensive, very large truffle, slices of which we’d enjoy with our next course.
How to react? We were baffled. We’re adept at faking our way through the swirls and sips involved in a restaurant wine tasting, but this was a whole different situation. Do we sniff? Do we touch? Do we reverently bow our approval? Truth is, we muddled our way through the entire series of reactions hoping we hit the right tone. Chef Piège, who spoke little English at the time (although far better than my elementary French), and his staff seemed satisfied. We breathed a sigh of relief. The rest of our meal was perfect.
I look back now at my columns from the past decade and realize each one — each chef — triggers a fond memory. Chef James Overbaugh at The Peninsula Beverly Hills, a native New Englander, surprised me when he recalled his earliest culinary inspiration: watching his Yankee grandfather cook Chinese food in an old and battered metal wok.
Then there’s Chef Michael Fiorelli at mar’sel, the signature eatery at Terranea Resort and Spa in Ranchos Palos Verdes, Calif., an accomplished chef and aspiring writer who satisfies both interests via his passion for cookbooks.
And I’ll always have a soft spot in my heart for Chef Fabrice Guisset, who joined us for a pre-dinner cocktail then returned to the kitchen to prepare the perfect seaside dinner celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary at Las Ventanas al Paraíso in Los Cabos, Mexico.
Speaking of seaside repasts, I must include Chef Greg Lamm in this retrospective. In the spring of 2007, at about the same time the television show Iron Chef America was reaching the height of its popularity, Kevin and I were enjoying an alfresco dinner while watching a spectacular sunset off the coast of Maui. The meal and the setting — The Westin Maui Resort’s beachfront Tropica Restaurant — were perfect. Maybe it was the wine. Maybe I was just feeling silly. More likely it’s because at the time I really wanted to be a judge on the Iron Chef panel.
In my best Iron Chef judge voice, I began critiquing each dish — all positive comments, but still assuming Kevin was my only audience within earshot. Camping it up, fork in hand, I noticed someone out of the corner of my eye. Chef Lamm was standing right behind me. Happily, I learned he’s not only an accomplished chef. He also has a genuine sense of humor.
* Closed for renovations, Hôtel de Crillon will reopen in 2015.
Set to open in 2026, Rosewood San Francisco will be the last skyscraper developed in the downtown region for the foreseeable future. The projected 800-foot-tall property will host a hotel, residences, office and rental spaces. The brand’s third property in California will join Rosewood Sand Hill in Menlo Park, and Rosewood Miramar Beach in Montecito.
The Global Business Travel Association’s (GBTA) Convention 2021 will be unlike any other convention before it, as we come together in person for the first time since the business travel industry drastically changed and look forward to rebuilding and reshaping the future. GBTA Convention 2021 will bring all of us together to learn from experts and each other, in-person at Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida, Nov. 17–19. The safety of our attendees is our top priority. View health and safety protocols.
It’s not even 9a.m. in the sleepy fishing village of Rawai on Thailand’s famous Phuket Island, but already the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea swarm with local fishermen casting their lines and releasing their nets from the bows of rustic long-tail boats. The scents of lemongrass, incense and sweet pandan leaves season the air as the villagers slowly rise from their beachside bungalows to start their day. In just a few more hours, the fishermen will return with their catches, filling the stalls of the iconic Rawai Seafood Market with buckets of shellfish and displays of fresh filets. Visitors line up each afternoon for the catch of the day, selecting their fish with care before hauling their purchases across the well-worn road to the restaurants opposite the market to have the fish cooked for 100 Thai baht per kilo.
MMGY Travel Intelligence released findings from its 2021 fall edition of its Portrait of American Travelers survey. It revealed the vast majority of vaccinated and unvaccinated travelers are planning trips in the months ahead, but the types of trips are different.
Without a doubt, the pandemic changed the role of airports in the travel industry. Hamad International Airport’s role evolved in many ways since the pandemic hit. Now, more than ever, airports are responsible for creating a secure passenger experience. As the gateway to Qatar and the world, the safety and wellbeing of staff and passengers has always been at the core of Hamad International Airport’s strategy.
Airbnb.org is an independent non-profit organization dedicated to facilitating temporary stays for people in moments of crisis, sheltering those displaced by natural disasters, offering frontline workers a place to stay at the height of the pandemic and, now, helping Afghan refugees.
Italian hospitality brand AG Group announced an international collaboration with Hyatt Hotels. AG Group’s IL Tornabuoni, slated to open in Florence in October 2021, will be part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt. The Tribune in Rome will become part of JdV by Hyatt in October 2021.
Since its prestige for attracting the world elite grew in the 1960s, Greece remains the go-to destination for glittering holidays. Each step of the journey is enrobed in luxury, from culinary traditions with the highest standard of execution and name-brand, high-end shopping to first-rate wellness locales and elite accommodations, like 5-star hotels, private villas and yachts.
Hotel diversity isn’t where it could be, but it’s a work in progress. Fueled with new energy that emerged from the racial reckoning of 2020, there’s more of a sense of urgency ... and with good reason. There’s plenty to do when it comes to diversity, equity and inclusion in the hotel industry.