WITH AROUND 2 MILLION inhabitants, Curitiba is the largest city in southern Brazil. In contrast to most Latin American metropolises, the city stands out for its sustainable urban planning, earning it praise around the world.
One of the most noticeable effects of the planning regime is the impressive use of public space. Where other cities prioritize the car, Curitiba is paradise for pedestrians. Former mayor Jaime Lerner provoked resistance from locals when he pedestrianized the central shopping district in 1972, but it was quickly accepted as a roaring success.
Today the Rua das Flores remains a centerpiece of the city, encouraging people to spend time walking among the gardens or eating and drinking at the cafés and restaurants. At one end lies the Passeio Publico with its organic produce markets and several hotels such as the Mabu Curitiba Business. The architecture also impresses, with visible influences from the European immigrants who arrived in waves throughout the history of the city.
From Germans, Italians, Poles and Ukrainians who arrived in the 1850s to the more recent arrivals of the 1960s, Curitiba has long been known for its diverse population. One of the oldest neighborhoods in Curitiba, Bairro Alto, offers a genuine pocket of local life in the big city. The restaurants are great, such as the Italian cuisine served at Di’ Bethina, and check out good bars like Bagda Lounge and Vava Beer House if you fancy a drink.
Aside from the huge variety of culinary and cultural influences, perhaps the most important aspect of Curitiba is the amount of open space. With more than 530 square feet of green space per inhabitant, it’s one of the greenest cities in the world, and no visit would be complete without seeing some of the parks. Stroll two of the most beautiful in the whole city, the Bosque Irmã Clementina and Parque Tanguá, but you’ll find safe spaces to explore all around town.
Curitiba continues to grow, but in many ways its innovative planning makes it feel like a small city. It’s an intriguing place to visit and one that makes you feel at home.
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April 2018
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