About a half-mile long, the Liulichang Culture Street in the Xuanwu District of Beijing is renowned for its traditional teashops, calligraphy, Chinese paintings, art galleries, curios and classic bookshops. Although the street has a unified look with gray tiles and bricks, watch for the brighter side of Chinese décor, including engraved dragons; reds, yellows
and greens; and foo dogs guarding entrances. Just south of the Xuanwu Peace Gate, Liulichang got its name from a colored glaze factory that operated here beginning in the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368). During the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911), it evolved into a meeting place for artists and scholars.
Mark Huang first visited Liulichang during the early ’80s as a student at Peking University. At the time, the street was undergoing a major renovation, further focusing on the study of the arts. Now, as director of operations with Zicasso-partner Access China Tours, Huang has clients who visit the famed street almost every month.
“Liulichang is for more sophisticated visitors who enjoy the literati feeling rather than hard-core bargaining,” Huang said. “What I like about Liulichang is the atmosphere created by the exterior of the stores and quieter street traffic. Most of the people who come here seem to be either local literati/ intellectuals or educated tourists who seek the ‘right scroll’
for the study room.”
Bibliophiles should be sure to check out The China Bookstore at 115 Dongxi Liulichang Jiedao. Be ready for a treasure hunt through foreign language and reproductions of Chinese literature. Look for second-hand books on calligraphy and art, postcards and photography.
If calligraphy calls to you, head to the western end of Liulichang for Rongbaozhai at 19 Liulichang Xijie Xuānwŭ, where you can pick up the four treasures of study: ink slab, ink stick, paper and writing brush. The store is famous for woodblock prints, carvings, seals and handmade paper. Be sure to allot time to take in the shop’s amazing collection. For antiques, head to Baoguzhai, 63 Liulichang Xijie. The “Studio of Precious Antiquity” is known for its paintings.
Be sure to give yourself time to visit the vendors and small stores along Liulichang. “A lot of people say one should not miss out on the small stores at both ends of the street, particularly those on the west end where you may really dig out something unique at reasonable prices,” Huang said. “I agree and suggest that you give the street a bit more time for your shopping; do some scouting before negotiating the prices.”
After immersing yourself in traditional Chinese arts and culture, indulge in a classic dish as well. Liulichang is within walking distance of Hepingmen Quanjude Peking Duck Restaurant, 14 Qianmen Xidajie. The bustling, sprawling restaurant can serve up to 5,000 meals per day. Try traditional sliced duck, perfectly made so that its thin, crispy skin melts in your mouth. Or, if you’re eager to break from tradition, choose from among the 80 or so other dishes made from duck, including innards, head, wings and web.
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