If you dream of a Caribbean getaway with blinding white sands and aquamarine waters, a destination with year-round temps in the mid- to upper 80s, less than 15 inches of rain a year, a steady breeze and absolutely no threat of hurricanes, it’s hard to top the Dutch island of Aruba. Only 16 miles long and seven miles wide, this speck of land just off the South American coast remains a popular escape year after year simply because visitors are guaranteed a week or two of a warm, therapeutic climate. It doesn’t matter that the interior is mostly arid desert, not nearly as lush as other Caribbean isles like Jamaica or St. Lucia, because travelers come here primarily for that glorious seven-mile stretch of beach.
This is an island of big hotels like the Marriott and Riu resorts that line Palm Beach, splashy casinos and excellent dining. Expect fresh fruit like papaya, mangos and small sweet bananas in the morning; salads with roasted chicken or grilled tilapia at lunch; and delicious fare at dinner, whether you select a Mexican or seafood eatery or the popular French restaurant Papillion.
A typical day starts with a long stroll on the boardwalk that borders the beach in front of all the hotels. Much like the paved walkway in Miami Beach, you can walk as long you like in either direction, past the immense Marriott or toward crescent-shaped Eagle Beach. Unlike other Caribbean locales, during our visit we never felt unsafe on the island, nor were we hassled. Vacationers we met were a mix of Americans, Europeans and South Americans.
Before our walk each day, we reserved a hut down by the beach by dropping our towels on the chairs. The big decision of the day is whether you prefer sun or shade. Be forewarned the sun is hot here, so lather up or you’ll be returning home with the skin of a prune. With such a potent sun, anything offering shade on the island fills up quickly, so get down to the beach on the early side to reserve your hotel’s palapa, especially during the high-season weeks of New Year’s and February/March school breaks.
All along the beach, you can find outfitters to take you scuba diving, snorkeling, parasailing or on banana boat rides. You can also rent personal watercraft such as Jet Skis. (These are not allowed at Palm Beach, so you don’t have to worry about the noise while you’re peacefully reading your thick novel on the beach. Outfitters take people out at neighboring Eagle Beach.)
By all means, go snorkeling. The visibility of the clear water is excellent, and the reef’s vibrant live brain coral teems with parrotfish and colorful queen angelfish. You can go on a morning sail with one of the boats to a popular snorkeling site, Boca Catalina, at the northwestern tip of Aruba. Or simply rent a car and snorkeling equipment and make Boca Catalina the first stop on a drive around the island.
Take the turn-off to the California Lighthouse and you’ll see a small parking lot on your left. Grab your snorkeling gear and plunge into the Caribbean Sea. Swim around the rocks and neon-colored fish, and a healthy dose of brain coral will soon surround you. It’s a good idea to wear a light T-shirt while snorkeling to avoid sunburn; bring a second shirt to stay dry on land.
Next stop on your island tour is the charming Alta Vista Chapel, perched on a bluff overlooking the sea. The three caves of Arikok National Park, including dome-shaped Guadirikiri Cave, are also worth checking out. After dining alfresco at the national park for lunch, drive down to Boca Grandi Beach to see one of the most mesmerizing sights in Aruba. The country is known for its steady breeze and swaying palms. But this is nothing compared to what you witness on the southeastern tip of the island, where winds are far more severe and the waves crash ashore, spewing foam into the air. The wicked winds attract the best kitesurfers in the world. Head down to the beach and watch the intrepid zip across the bay at incredibly fast speeds, catch air for a good five seconds and then turn their boards around with the slightest of ease while the choppy sea swirls around them. Judging from the smiles plastered on the kitesurfers’ faces, they love every minute of it.
Back at your resort, relax on the beach and dive into that best-selling mystery. The sun sets every evening around 6:45 p.m., and it’s hard to resist watching the red orb melt into the sea while having a drink and toasting your good fortune. Then everyone makes their way to dinner and live reggae and calypso music at the nearby bars, within easy walking distance of most properties.
One day quickly fades into the next as the week slips by. You’ll no doubt meet and be envious of people who spend their entire winter on the island. Others have simply retired and live on Aruba year-round. You can visit the isle in summer, when resort prices are often half the cost of winter, and experience the same exact climate. The shoulder season months of April and May also offer an ideal time to visit since foot traffic on the beach and boardwalk is greatly reduced. Rest assured that whatever season you visit Aruba, you’ll have superb weather to savor what this country does best: kicking back.
Aruba Info to Go
All travelers arrive at the Queen Beatrix International Airport in Oranjestad. Cost of a taxi to the Palm Beach resorts is approximately $25 and takes 20 minutes. There’s really no need to rent a car, except for the one day you see the sights around the island. Most resorts have a car rental desk on property.
Hotels in Aruba
Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino The iconic Palm Beach property just completed a $50 million renovation, with new features like the luxurious adults-only Tradewinds Club boutique-hotel-within-a-hotel on the top floor and the H2Oasis adults-only pool. 101 L.G. Smith Blvd., Palm Beach $$$
Bucuti & Tara Beach Resorts Aruba’s premier boutique resort, this adults-only property offers 104 guestrooms and suites, a freshwater infinity pool and Intermezzo Spa. 55B L.G. Smith Blvd., Eagle Beach $$$$–$$$$$
Hotel Riu Palace Aruba At this all-inclusive family favorite, the perky entertainment team keeps guests happy with water aerobics and Zumba classes. (Note: The adults-only Riu Palace Antillas just opened next door.) 79 J.E. Irausquin Blvd., Palm Beach $$$
Restaurants in Aruba
Elements Restaurant Three-course meals feature locally grown organic produce, freshly caught seafood and grass-fed cattle. Try grilled mahi mahi with ginger or skirt steak with homemade chimichurri sauce. Bucuti & Tara Beach Resorts, 55B L.G. Smith Blvd., Eagle Beach $$$$
Gasparito Restaurant Five minutes south of Palm Beach, dine on Aruban specialties like keshi yena, melted Gouda cheese stuffed with seafood or chicken; and stoba di bestia, a hearty goat meat and vegetable stew. 3 Noord $$
Papillon Restaurant Within easy walking distance of the Marriott and Riu is the beloved French restaurant Papillon. Entrées include pan-fried shrimp and grouper dishes, roasted lamb and filet mignon. 348A J.E. Irausquin Blvd. $$$
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