If Turin is not on your radar now, it soon will be. This capital city of Italy’s Piedmont region — home of Fiat, the Shroud of Turin and 900,000 residents — will host the world during the 2006 Winter Olympics next February.

The appeal to Olympic organizers is obvious: Turin, also known as Torino, is a lively city that combines the modern (some may even say hip) with the historic. A world-class ski region dubbed the Milky Way is just 60 miles away. To the south, vineyards known for producing prized barolo and barbaresco (in addition to the more commonplace asti spumante) share the landscape with fertile grounds that are home to the white truffle, one of the world’s most coveted culinary treasures.

The city is full of surprises. On first inspection it’s an old industrial city — an Italian version of Pittsburgh, perhaps — where carmaker Fiat is king. But then you notice the historic Fiat plant that is now a super-modern Le Meridien hotel, part of a complex designed by the acclaimed Renzo Piano, no less. And you begin to realize, heck, there’s a lot of modern art here, including two major contemporary-art museums — one in Castello di Rivoli, a former House of Savoy castle. And check out all the “beautiful people” strolling downtown’s art nouveau shopping arcades and baroque squares. And wow, look at the Italian designer duds they’re wearing. (Take a quick walk along Via Roma to Piazza Castello to find designer shops galore, including Armani and Gucci.)

Foodies will delight in this place where culinary arts are thoroughly explored — we’re not talking run-of-the-mill red sauce here. There are white truffles; prime hazelnuts; and premium chocolate, including gianduiotto, a melt-in-your-mouth combination of chocolate and hazelnuts wrapped in gold foil (major confectioner Ferrero, maker of Ferrero Rocher chocolates, Nutella and Tic Tacs, is located about an hour away, in Alba). Said designer Calvin Klein, “Turin really knows how to tempt me. Chocolate is one of the best things in life.”

In preparation for the Olympics, much of Turin is currently a construction zone. Parking lots are being created under downtown’s baroque squares, new structures are going up and old buildings are getting facelifts. For instance, the opening ceremonies will be held in Stadio Olympic, a former soccer stadium commissioned by Benito Mussolini in 1932, and additions are being made there that match the original design.

Meanwhile, life goes on in places such as the city’s charming historic coffeehouses, including Caffè Al Bicerin, where for about $5 you can enjoy its namesake, bicerin, a hot drink with layers of coffee, bitter chocolate and cream — heaven in a cup.

Want hip? Turin’s got that too, especially in the recently revived Roman Quarter, with its late-night crowd (you can dine here until midnight), restaurants, bars, cafes and wine bars. Start your night as the locals do, with an aperitif such as vermouth (invented here), then go for a late dinner and stroll the piazzas or hit some clubs.

And the Shroud of Turin? Many visitors are surprised to find it is, well, shrouded. It’s housed in the Cattedrale di San Giovanni Battista (Piazza San Giovanni, tel 39 011 436 1540), and what you see is a wooden altar encasing the shroud that some believe is Jesus’ burial cloth. There’s also a copy of the cloth on display. Once the property of the House of Savoy, the shroud is now owned by the Vatican and is traditionally displayed only in holy years (the last was 2000, the next will be 2025), although there are rumors Pope Benedict XVI will at least be asked to put it on display for the Olympics.

Turin is home to some 40 museums. A must-do for fans of Egyptology is the Museo Egizio (6 Via Accademia delle Scienze, tel 39 011 561 7776), a vast baroque palace containing the most important Egyptian art collection outside of Egypt. There are more than 30,000 items, including mummies, collected by the House of Savoy.

The National Museum of Cinema (Museo Nazionale del Cinema, 20 Via Montebello, tel 39 011 812 5658, www.museonazionaledelcinema.it) is located in a striking, 548-foot-tall historic monument originally designed as a synagogue and capped with an impressive dome; you can take a high-speed elevator to the top for city views. Inside are creative displays of film clips (watch comedies such as Airplane! while sitting on a toilet, and romances such as Romeo and Juliet while lying on a red-velvet-covered bed) as well as some props, including one of the shark dummies from Jaws.

Just outside the city, the massive Castello Venaria (4 Piazza della Repubblica, Venaria Reale, tel 39 011 459 3675, www.reggiavenariareale.it) was once the hunting lodge for the Savoy royal family, and is said to have been an inspiration for Versailles. After years of disrepair, the castle is undergoing restoration, currently the largest such project in Europe, and will host the opening ball for the Olympics. Castello di Rivoli (Piazza Malfada di Savoia, Rivoli, tel 011 956 5222, www.castellodirivoli.it) is another Savoy palace, this one converted into a cutting-edge museum of contemporary art — it’s a must-visit for modern-art lovers. A meal at funky Cobal.Zero here (see Dining, below) is an irresistible splurge for foodies. Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, or GAM, (31 Via Magenta, tel 39 011 442 9518, www.gamtorino.it) is one of the most important modern-art museums in Italy and the place to see Warhol, Ernst, Klee and more.

LODGING

GRAND HOTEL SITEA

This historic, four-star, center-city hotel has a pleasant, traditional vibe that includes a comfortable lobby, a wonderful little English-style bar and an excellent restaurant (the breakfast buffet is a full spread, including scrambled eggs). A free Internet terminal is located off the lobby. The guestrooms are larger than you might expect of an Italian hotel, and have lovely old furnishings, minibars and marble bathrooms. Some rooms are designated nonsmoking. It’s an easy walk from this property to the main museums, squares and shopping arcades. $$$-$$$$
GRAND HOTEL SITEA
35 Via Carlo Alberto
tel 39 011 517 0171, fax 39 011 54 8090
www.thi.it

LE MERIDIEN LINGOTTO AND LE MERIDIEN ART + TECH

The four-star Lingotto and the adjacent five-star Art + Tech are both located in a former Fiat factory rejuvenated by famed architect Renzo Piano. The Lingotto has a business center, a cocktail lounge and a restaurant called Torpedo that overlooks luscious gardens. Guestrooms have warm cherry tones and some boast glass walls from the original factory. The Art + Tech is all about funky and futuristic and is simply stunning, with modern art, glass elevators and a minimalist marble-and-steel lobby. Guestroom furniture reflects the work of modern designers, and some rooms are loft-style. Accoutrements include 30-inch plasma-screen TVs and multi-jet showerheads. The Art + Tech Café continues the contemporary vibe. Nearby is a convention center and shopping mall, and some of the prime Olympic sites. $$$$
LE MERIDIEN LINGOTTO AND LE MERIDIEN ART + TECH
262 Via Nizza
tel 39 011 664 2000, fax 39 011 664 2001
www.lemeridien.com/turin

GOLDEN PALACE

This brand-new luxury property, with 200 rooms and suites, is set to open in the fall in a historic building in the city center, right near Piazza San Carlo. It will boast two restaurants and a spa and fitness center (also open to outside clientele). Golden Palace is owned by the same firm as Grand Hotel Sitea. $$$$
GOLDEN PALACE
18 Via dell’Arcivescovado
www.thi.it

CASTELLO DI VERDUNO
Sleep like royalty in this castle hotel just south of Alba. Castello di Verduno, open March through November, offers not only accommodations but a winery that produces barolo and verduno. Family-owned and operated as a hotel for more than 50 years, the property supports the slow-food movement, which started in nearby Bra. Rooms are located in a 1700s wing of the castle, as well as in a 19th century garden-view addition and a restored farmhouse, with inexpensive rooms available in a restored barn. Some rooms are decorated with antiques and others feature country decor. The restaurant Real Castello is located in 18th century castle rooms and features fine country cooking — items like braised beef, pasta with chicken livers, and hazelnut cakes. There is also a more casual farm kitchen. $-$$$
CASTELLO DI VERDUNO
Via Umberto 1, 9
Verduno
tel/fax 39 0172 470 281
www.castellodiverduno.com

DINING

COMBAL.ZERO RISTORANTE

Chef Davide Scabin is so creative you might get the feeling he’s a bit over the top. Even so, his antics have earned him one Michelin star and his cuisine is divine. The 50-seat restaurant is located in a hilltop castle, now a contemporary-art museum, a few miles from Turin and with fabulous city views. Guests can choose between classic and creative menus. Go with the latter ($183 per person) and you’re in for a theatrical, contemporary-art-inspired treat; dishes include Cyber Egg, a balloon filled with egg yolk and caviar that is served in a clear plastic box (you open the box, make a cut in the balloon with a razor-sharp knife and suck). But Scabin isn’t all gloss — on the classic menu, the risotto with fontina cheese topped with white truffle shavings is to die for. (Scabin is planning special picnic menus for the Olympic Games.) $$$$
COMBAL.ZERO RISTORANTE
Piazza Mafalda di Savoia Rivoli
tel 39 011 956 5225, fax 39 011 956 5248

CAFFÈ AL BICERIN

This tiny coffee shop is believed to be the oldest in Turin (dating to the 1700s) and has become famous throughout Italy for its bicerin, a hot concoction combining coffee, bitter hot chocolate and cream. The cafe also serves pastries and sandwiches. And how cool is it that Nietzsche once dined here?
CAFFÈ AL BICERIN
5 Piazza della Consolata
tel 39 011 436 9325
www.bicerin.it

TRE GALLI

A lively wine bar, Tre Galli is credited with helping to rejuvenate the Roman Quarter. Dishes include regional favorites such as roasted veal, served simply with green beans and potatoes. The spaghetti with pesto is cooked perfectly al dente. And the flan with nettles, served with fried onions and cheese sauce, is a deliciously decadent appetizer. Accompany your meal with fine wines. $$$
TRE GALLI
25 Via Sant’Agostino
tel 39 011 521 6027, fax 39 011 431 9199
www.3galli.com

NIGHTLIFE

For a scene with lots of people on the street, head to the popular Roman Quarter. There are cafes, bars, wine bars and a generally hip crowd. For something unusual, stop by Hafa Café (23C Via Sant’Agostino, tel 39 011 436 7091), which brings a touch of Morocco to Turin — even though the place is really run by Italians. Dance clubs, which don’t get going until after midnight, can be found on the riverfront. Xo (46 Via Po, tel 39 011 817 8329) offers a live DJ and music nightly. There are music and theater performances of some sort almost every night in Turin, frequently including classical jazz, opera, musical theater and ballet. Pick up a local calendar listing or check with your hotel concierge to find out what’s happening.

DAY TRIPS

About an hour south of the city, toward Alba, the landscape features vineyard-covered countryside and charming hilltop towns. Visit wineries including Gagliardo Winery (Borgota Serra dei Turchi, La Morra, tel 39 0173 50829, fax 39 0173 509 230, www.gagliardo.it) and Marchesi di Barolo (12 Via Alba, Barolo, tel 39 0173 564 496, fax 39 0173 564 444, www.marchesibarolo.com), open for tastings and tours. Gagliardo also has a nice country restaurant where you can dine in or get picnics to enjoy while you walk the vineyards. Outside the lovely hilltop town of La Morra, you’ll find Cappella della Brunate, a tiny chapel built in 1914 and purchased by Ceretto Winery, which commissioned artists David Tremlett and Sol LeWitt to paint the structure; it’s done in striking primary colors, a bright light in the countryside.

For bragging rights back home, book a truffle hunting expedition with La Casa del Trifulau, or Truffle House (1 Frazione Burio, Costigliole d’Asti, tel 39 0347 299 1832, www.lacasadeltrifulau.it). For $110 for two, brothers Giorgio and Natale take yo u into the woods, accompanied by their truffle-sniffing dogs, to show how to find the hidden gems that can sell for as much as $1,500 per pound. They also share truffle lore, including reports of their aphrodisiac powers. A truffle and wine tasting follows the “hunt.”