Having a mild case of acrophobia, I thought heading to Northern China’s largest coastal city of Tianjin on the outskirts of Beijing might help channel my dreaded fear of heights into something uplifting.

After all, this city — nicknamed the “Pearl of the Boha” due to its proximity to the Boha Sea — boasts several natural and manmade monuments with lofty perches that splay out on a land mass slightly larger than Los Angeles.

My other half came along on my quest to help soothe my anxieties. After finishing up business in Beijing, a 30-minute ride on the high-speed bullet train from the smoke-choked capital deposited us at the Tianjin train station, where bustling commuters emerged from the billowing fog of early morning. Armed with a guidebook and a map, we started the eye-opening journey, discovering the city’s towering landmarks, old and new.

We first encountered what is arguably the world’s only Ferris wheel built on top of a bridge. The Yongle Bridge spans the Haihe River, revered as the mother river of the city. The observation wheel is dubbed “The Tianjin Eye Bridge,” a nod to London’s wheel. The red, enclosed gondola capsule gently climbed to a height of 35 stories, offering stunning views of the sprawling metropolis built upon the salt-flat coast.

Wedged between the bridge’s busy freeways, it was easy to feel a bit squeamish as we hovered above oncoming traffic. The cityscape buzzed beneath our feet as whizzing vehicles emerged from a forest of high-rise apartments which abuts ancient Chinese neighborhoods. The sightseeing experience provided a fabulous introduction to the contrasts within this dynamic ancient city.

Tianjin experienced a massive renaissance as the world’s first ecocity to be developed by two countries, known as the Sino-Singapore Tianjin Eco-City. To boot, Tianjin Eco-City is also lauded as the country’s first national green development zone. With historic vestiges of intermingling cultures dating back 600 years nestled alongside foreign modern buildings of the 20th century, you can see how some districts are morphing into modern urban centers in which high-rises play a leading role.

My lofty pursuit took a surreal twist with a visit to the Tianjin Economic-Technological Development Area, or TEDA, a new neighborhood in the heavily expat Binhai District about 40 minutes from downtown. You’ll spot a large glass pyramid similar to the one at the Louvre, known as the TEDA Citizen Plaza. This impressive Arthur Erickson-designed multipurpose building features retail, galleries and an attached hotel that is quite impressive.

Over by the redeveloped commercial Heping District, it’s Blade Runner-meets-the-21st-century with the opening of the new Riverside 66 Hang Lung Plaza. Located along the Haihe River, the seven-story building was designed by James von Klemperer of KPF (the company that designed London’s Pinnacle, one of the tallest buildings in the U.K.). The whale-shaped building constructed of glass echoes visions of Herman Melville’s Moby Dick. Folks can head inside to see a spacious, sunlit glass atrium at the pre-certified LEED Gold shopping emporium.

Tianjin Radio and Television Tower © Moelo | Dreamstime.com

Feeling as though I’d mastered my height phobia — though I was still on terra firma gazing skyward at the concrete forest — we set off to see the Tianjin Radio and Television Tower, the world’s 32nd-highest freestanding structure, in the Hexi District. While it’s deemed old in Chinese terms (constructed in 1991), the needle-thin, 1,362-foot skyscraper still seemed pretty high as a bullet elevator zipped us up to the observation pod in minutes. We were lucky to have a clear early afternoon to spot the Tianjin Zoo and the two Olympic parks. As the revolving restaurant was busy, we opted for quick street eats safely back on the ground.

After ticking off some of the new ambitious high-rises, we visited the Tianjin Museum by Galaxy Square in the Hexi District to better appreciate the city’s illustrious history. This flying swan-inspired façade designed by Japanese architect Mamoru Kawaguchi houses a massive collection of more than 200,000 artifacts, from calligraphy to ceramics to Ming and Qing paintings. One wing is devoted to historical photographs, industrial equipment and marine relics integral to the coastal town’s development. Seeing the extraordinary pieces helped put into perspective some of the questions about this coastal juggernaut that continues to make big waves.

In an effort to resume my mission of tackling heights, I figured it couldn’t get any loftier than visiting the heavenly place known as the Tianhou Palace, aka “the Palace of the Queen of Heaven,” in the fabled Nankai District. Built during the Yuan Dynasty, the palace is revered as the city’s oldest architecture. Four ghoulish warrior giants guard the main hall entrance, holding threatening spears that would certainly ward off any unsavory intruder. The figures loom high upon their pedestals, away from mere mortals. The air was acrid with incense as the old faithful came to pray to Mazu, the goddess of the sea, originally for the safety of hundreds of sailors and fishermen who sailed the treacherous Pacific Ocean. These days, however, it appears just about anything goes at this Taoist temple. I made a quick offering, burned some incense and prayed for continued strength as I prepared for our last stop: the Huangya Pass, meaning “Yellow Cliff Pass.”

The next morning, after about a 90-minute drive by cab, we made it to the legendary wall nicknamed “a miniature Great Wall of China” for all its watch towers and fortresses and considered one of the 10 most visited sites in Tianjin. Seeing the historic structure with its long stone wall hovering high above the mountain ridge did not disappoint.

As at the Badaling Great Wall in Beijing, you tread on steep, polished stone steps that slither beneath your feet and zigzag like a dragon’s back. But that’s where the comparisons end. Restored in the 1980s, the Huangya wall features a well-maintained staircase. Better yet, it was void of crowds. Here we found solitude, a welcome pause from the bustle of business and sightseeing. A green carpet of trees, shrubs and low-lying wild grasses cloaked the mountains, and seeing the long stone wall cresting over the endless ridges, I suddenly understood the Chinese fascination with the dragon.

Huangya Fortress and Great Wall, offering a bird’s-eye view of the city © Yanxiaodong | Dreamstime.com

For a moment, my fear of heights totally subsided. My prayer to Mazu had been answered.

Tianjin Info to Go

For about $11, take a 30-minute speed train from Beijing to Tianjin. Trains depart daily every five minutes. Taxis in downtown Tianjin charge from $1.50 for the first kilometer plus an extra $3 for a 10-kilometer ride, which increases based on mileage. Cab price varies to the train station and could cost $25 from the Binhai District. The easiest way around the city is by metro. Service is frequent, inexpensive (starting from 30 cents) and well-mapped, with station stops announced in Mandarin and English.

Where to Stay in Tianjin

The Astor Hotel Tianjin Opened in 1863, The Astor Hotel is reminiscent of a bygone era in the city’s history. Completely restored in 2010, it’s 5-star and state-of-the-art, in the heart of Tianjin’s financial district. 33 Taier Zhuang Road, Heping District $$$$$

Hotel Indigo Tianjin Haihe On former grounds of the German Consulate residence, the elegant boutique hotel features new buildings with Germanic architecture, free Internet, a fitness center, yoga classes, an indoor pool and restaurants with European menus. 314 Jiefang South Road, Hexi District $$$

Pan Pacific Tianjin Situated along the Haihe River near key commercial districts, this new 319-room luxury hotel features suites decorated in soothing tones of blue, gray and gold with earthy wood and stone textures. 1 Zhang Zi Zhong Road, Hong Qiao District $$$$

Restaurants in Tianjin

Bai Yun With fabulous riverside views, this finedining restaurant in the former Austrian concession district meshes Cantonese and local Tianjin touches in a bold northsouth Chinese culinary fusion. Banyan Tree Tianjin Riverside, 34 Haihe E. Road, Hebei District $$$

Din Tai Fung This popular dumpling house boasts contemporary local favorites like xiaolongbao dumplings, superior meat-stuffed steamed buns and the classic goubuli soup dumplings. 18 Binshui Road, Hexi District $$$

Dublin Irish Pub Expect typical pub fare that won’t break the bank. The chef, formerly of Beijing’s Great Wall Hotel, makes New Zealand steak, shepherd’s pie and German bratwurst. 52 Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping District $$