Norway is celebrating 100 years of independence from Sweden this year, and Oslo’s main downtown area has been suitably spruced up for the occasion with new pedestrian-only areas, stone walkways and fresh plantings. Born as a Viking village on the edge of a fjord, Oslo has grown into the capital of one of the most prosperous countries in Europe, and it is doing its nation proud. With half a million residents, Oslo is home to about 10 percent of the population of Norway, a largely rural country marked by spectacular mountains, fjords and forests. Although Norway is geographically the fourth largest country in Europe, about half of its land lies within the Arctic Circle, and it is home to only 4.5 million people. The discovery of off-shore oil and gas in the late 1960s first catapulted this small country onto the world stage. Now the second largest exporter of crude oil in the world, Norway is also a major supplier of natural gas to Europe. With wealth has come influence: already home to the Nobel Peace Prize, Oslo gained additional diplomatic cachet with the 1993 signing of the Oslo Accords, a series of agreements between Israel and the Palestine Liberation Organization designed to lay a path to peace in the Middle East. On June 11, in conjunction with the city’s centennial celebrations, Oslo opened the Nobel Peace Center, “an institution designed to bear witness to humanity’s best efforts to achieve peace in all its forms.” Norway is a constitutional monarchy that offers a rich array of social benefits to its citizens. Although not a member of the European Union, Norway is strongly tied to Europe through the European Economic Area agreement. Oil and gas remain dominant industries, but Norway is also a major exporter of fish, timber products and aluminum. Its companies control around 10 percent of the world’s shipping fleet. And, the information technology industry is growing: it’s an ideal business for this nation’s highly educated workforce. The country’s success is paying off for Oslo, which just 10 years ago was a tough place to find a decent cup of coffee. Now coffee shops are everywhere, and business travelers can easily find the world-class accommodations, sophisticated meeting facilities and gourmet dining they expect from a European capital. More development is under way. Over the next few years, the physical city of Oslo will undergo a major transformation. A project dubbed Fjord City will reclaim land next to the sea for new housing, shops, museums and recreational areas. Construction has already begun on Fjord City’s signature project, the Opera House, and the entire development is expected to be completed in 2008. Fortunately, Oslo has not forgotten the past as it’s built the future. The Viking Ship Museum offers visitors an extraordinary look into the lives of the hardy seafarers who left Norway to travel the world more than a thousand years ago. The Polarship Fram Museum tells the amazing story of the turn-of-the-20th-century race to the poles, and houses the actual ship that was used. The open-air Norwegian Museum of Cultural History features traditional houses brought in from all over the country, plus a rare stave church. And don’t miss the Holmenkollen Ski Jump and Ski Museum, if only for an excuse to get up into the Oslo hills. Norway is at its heart a country of people who enjoy the great outdoors. So, go skiing. Go hiking. Get out on a boat in summer. Just don’t complain about the climate. As the saying here goes, there is no bad weather; there is just bad clothing.

LODGING

HOTEL CONTINENTAL

Indisputably Oslo’s premier hotel, the Hotel Continental was built in 1900 and has been run since 1912 by four generations of the same family. Each of the hotel’s 154 rooms and suites is individually furnished, and all are equipped with broadband Internet access. Ideally located across the street from the National Theater, the Continental boasts both the famous Theatercafféen an d the one-Michelin-star restaurant Annen Etage. There are even 12 original Munch lithographs in the hotel’s lobby bar, Dagligstuen. Did I mention it’s the only Norwegian member of the Leading Hotels of the World? Superb. $$$$ HOTEL CONTINENTAL 24/26 Stortingsgaten P.O. Box 1510 Vika tel 47 22 82 40 00, fax 47 22 42 96 89 www.hotel-continental.no

GRAND HOTEL

This somewhat faded grand dame occupies a premier spot on Oslo’s main street and is famous as the host each year of the winner of the Nobel Peace Prize. Built in 1874, the hotel features an attractive grand staircase and 289 rooms (50 of which are suites), all classically furnished, with absurdly small televisions. High-speed wireless Internet access is available throughout. The hotel has three restaurants, two bars and a swimming pool. $$$$ GRAND HOTEL 31 Karl Johans Gate tel 47 23 21 20 00, fax 47 23 21 21 00 www.grand.no

HOLMENKOLLEN PARK HOTEL RICA

Perched 1,150 feet above the city center, near the ski jump built for the 1952 Winter Olympics, this 220-room hotel is ideally situated for those who want to enjoy the great outdoors, as Norwegians do, by skiing, hiking or cycling. The views down into the city and the Oslo Fjord are extraordinary, but the hotel itself is great to look at, too. The oldest part dates from 1894 and is in the distinctive Norwegian dragon style – something like a log cabin with carved wooden dragon heads popping out all over. Rooms feature digital TVs and Internet access, and some suites come with sauna or Jacuzzi. The hotel has three restaurants, a spa and fitness center plus well-equipped conference facilities. $$$$ HOLMENKOLLEN PARK HOTEL RICA 26 Kongeveien tel 47 22 92 20 00, fax 47 22 14 61 92 www.holmenkollenparkhotel.no

RADISSON SAS PLAZA

Recently renovated in a modern style, this hotel is deservedly popular with business travelers for such amenities as hotel-wide wireless Internet access, dual-line phones, in-room coffee and flat-screen TVs. The SAS Plaza has 673 guestrooms and suites and boasts 30 meeting rooms, several of which afford stunning views of the city. The hotel also has three bars and one fine restaurant, a business center and a small indoor pool. Among the tallest buildings in Oslo, the SAS Plaza is known for its fabulous views, but is ill-served by its location in a gritty area just steps from Oslo’s main bus and train stations. $$$ RADISSON SAS PLAZA 3 Sonja Henies Plass tel 47 22 05 80 00, fax 47 22 05 80 10 www.plaza.oslo.radissonsas.com

DINING

Many businesses in Oslo have impressive dining facilities of their own, so business lunches typically occur on site, rather than at restaurants. Many city restaurants aren’t even open for lunch. At home, Norwegians typically eat dinner at around 5 p.m., so dinner out is usually scheduled for 7 or 7:30 p.m. On a winter Monday, don’t be surprised to find the downtown deserted and the restaurants empty, if open. Things are livelier in Grünerløkka, an area popular with young professionals. And, in summer, be sure to wander down to the Aker Brygge area by the harbor, where you’ll be able to make the best of the good weather at any of several outdoor cafes.

BAKER HANSEN

An inexpensive place to stop for coffee and a pastry or sandwich, Baker Hansen has several locations in the city, including this tiny cafe just a block from Oslo City Hall. $ BAKER HANSEN 12 Tordenskiolds Gate tel 47 22 41 63 65 www.bakerhansen.no

THEATERCAFÉEN

Popular for business lunches and dinners, this Vienna-style cafe has been the place to meet and greet in Oslo for more than 100 years. Although reservations are a must, the atmosphere here is warm rather than formal. Viennese music is played live in the evening from a balcony tucked under the vaulted ceiling of this art nouveau gem. Enjoy such classic Norwegian dishes as marinated salmon with stewed potatoes and mustard sauce, or reindeer steak. $$$$ THEATERCAFÉEN 24/26 Stortingsgaten P.O. Box 1510 Vika tel 47 22 82 40 50, fax 47 22 41 20 94 www.hotel-continental.no

FROGNERSETEREN

This cafe and restaurant, open since 1892, offers a classically Norwegian experience. Perched high in the hills over the city center, Frognerseteren has the feel of a hunter’s lodge, complete with big stone fireplaces. The self-service cafe offers a range of sandwiches and hot dishes – don’t miss its famous apple cake. The fine-dining restaurant offers three- and four-course dinners with seasonal menus highlighting such typically Norwegian ingredients as reindeer, salmon and cloudberries. One recent winter special was pink roasted fillet of reindeer dressed with mushrooms and vegetables and served with thyme-flavored gravy. Private rooms are available. Cafe $$; restaurant $$$$. FROGNERSETEREN 200 Holmenkollveien tel 47 22 92 40 40, fax 47 22 14 32 21 www.frognerseteren.no

GRAND CAFÉ

Once a favorite haunt of the playwright Henrik Ibsen, the Grand Café has an unbeatable location on the ground floor of the Grand Hotel, which is right on Karl Johans Gate, Oslo’s main street, between the parliament building and the royal palace. The clubby interior features dark wood and leather seating, and a mural takes up one wall. Dishes range from red-wine-braised leg of lamb to guinea fowl with tagliatelle and roquefort sauce. The menu also includes the Norwegian classics: reindeer and salmon. $$$$ GRAND CAFÉ 31 Karl Johans Gate tel 47 23 21 20 00, fax 47 23 21 21 00 www.grand.no

ANNEN ETAGE

When you tire of salmon and reindeer, the one-Michelin-star Annen Etage offers fabulous French cuisine. Three- to seven-course tasting menus are the best value, at about $82–$127 per person. One recent menu included terrine of foie gras of duck to start, followed by petit pois soup with king crab and chorizio sausage; a choice of main courses, including seared bay scallops with lemon risotto and vanilla hollandaise; a cheese course; and, for dessert, a mille-feuille with Norwegian strawberries and vanilla cream. Let the wait staff help you with the extensive wine list. Recently refurbished in a classic, contemporary style, Annen Etage occupies a grand space with high ceilings and crystal chandeliers. $$$$ ANNEN ETAGE 24/26 Stortingsgaten P.O. Box 1510 Vika tel 47 22 82 40 70, fax 47 22 41 20 94 www.hotel-continental.no

NIGHTLIFE

Grünerløkka is the hip area of town for young revelers. Among the coolest spots here is Bar Boca (30 Thorvald Meyers Gate, tel 47 22 04 10 80, www.barboca.no), a small 1950s-style bar with a reputation for making excellent cocktails. Jazz lovers will enjoy Blå (9 Brenneriveien, www.blx.no/english), the largest jazz club of its kind in Scandinavia. During fine weather, Blå opens an outdoor cafe on the banks of the Aker River. Downtown, Macondo (1 Badstugata, tel 47 22 20 82 55) keeps the beat alive with a 1970s-style interior and nightlong disco dance hits. And Onkel Donald (26 Universitesgaten, tel 47 22 42 44 20, www.onkeldonald.no), a pub with good music, is popular at all hours. Check out Oslo’s excellent rock scene at Café Mono (4 Pløensgate, tel 47 22 41 41 66, www.cafemono.no), which features live music several times a week. Most bars and nightclubs are open until 3 a.m. Smoking is prohibited indoors.

Checking In with Oslo Mayor Per Ditlev-Simonsen

Oslo’s mayor, Per Ditlev-Simonsen, made a small fortune running the shipping and oil-drilling arms of Sverre Ditlev-Simonsen & Co. before going into politics. Ditlev-Simonsen served in the Norwegian Parliament from 1980 to 1985 and was minister of defense during 1989 and 1990. He was first elected Oslo’s mayor in 1995. The mayor chairs the city council, the supreme municipal authority. The council is made up of 59 representatives, each elected for a four-year term. Here’s what he had to say about doing business in Scandinavia’s oldest capital. Global Traveler: How has Norway’s resistance to incorporation into the European Union affected Oslo’s ability to compete as an attractive place to do business? Per Ditlev-Simonsen: The financial and maritime section (including shipping, oil, shipbrokers’ insurance, Det Norske Veritas) has for decades, and will continue to be, an interesting arena for this part of international business. But as for establishing international headquarters, Oslo is a clear No. 4 after Copenhagen, Stockholm and Malmø.

GT:

Is Oslo an expensive place to do business, relative to its neighbors? Have relative operating costs increased in recent years? PDS: Oslo is expensive and always will be. I also feel that relative costs have increased over the years. On the other hand, Oslo has a lot to offer: fantastic nature, fine hotels and restaurants and international nightlife, good schools and universities. In total, Oslo is a modern and international and trendy city with a friendly population.

GT:

How will the redevelopment of Oslo’s waterfront, the Fjord City project, affect the business environment in Oslo? PDS: The Fjord City development will strengthen the points made above.

GT:

From a personal perspective, name some reasons Oslo is a better place to do business today than it was 10 years ago. PDS: The international character of the Oslo business community has improved over the years and become increasingly professional. A foreign company will meet counterparts with a wide range of international business experience. Foreign companies are popular and will receive a warm welcome by the business community.

Just the Facts

Location: Centrally located in the heart of Scandinavia, Oslo is a coastal city situated at the head of the Oslo Fjord in southeastern Norway. Despite Oslo’s northern latitude, the gulf stream makes it one of the warmest areas in the country, with an average summer temperature in the 60s F and average winter highs around 30 F. Time Zone: GMT +1 Phone Code: 47 Currency: Norwegian krone Official Language: Norwegian (there are two official versions of Norwegian and the country has small Sami- and Finnish-speaking minorities) Key Industries: Oil, natural gas, fish, timber products, aluminum, shipping, information technology

INFO TO GO

Oslo Airport (OSL) is about 20 minutes from the city center by express train (www.flytoget.no), which costs about $50. For about half that price, you can take a bus, SAS Flybussen (www.flybussen.no), but that takes about 45 minutes. Oslo has a comprehensive public transportation system that includes buses, trams and subways; pick up a map from your hotel. Business travelers with time for touring will want to buy an Oslo Pass, which provides free admission to 25 museums, free travel on public transport and more. A one-day pass costs about $27; two days, about $41; three, $53.