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Lyon: Lyon’s Roar

by Gtrav

May 1, 2007
2007 / May 2007

LYON WILL ALWAYS BE KNOWN, first and foremost, as the culinary capital of France. For one thing, the Rhone-Alpes region, of which Lyon is the jewel in the crown, boasts no fewer than 11 two-Michelin star restaurants and five restaurants with three Michelin stars. But while no one diminishes the importance of fine dining — this is France after all — there is more to the city of Lyon than the pleasures of the palate.

The second-largest city in France, Lyon begs comparison with Paris. Picture a stately, elegant city bisected by a river with a cathedral perched on a distant hill and you get the idea. But on closer inspection, the differences are apparent. Lyon has not one but two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, as well as two hills, the Fourvière and the Croix.

Situated in the heart of France, Lyon also benefits from its location, within two hours of Paris by TGV rapid train and within an hour-and-ahalf of Marseilles. As of 2004, nearly 500,000 people lived in the city itself, more than 2.5 million in the greater Lyon area and almost 6 million in the Rhone-Alpes region.

The region also boasts a gross domestic product that ranks sixth in the European Union and surpasses that of entire countries, such as Portugal and Greece. Major industries are chemistry, biotechnology, textiles and a thriving transportation system that employs a whopping 31,000 people.

There are more international companies in Lyon than anywhere else in
France, with 900 firms backed by foreign capital, and the region ranks second for initial public offerings.

The Lyon area attracts company headquarters — 1,500 in all — including
such well-known firms as Renault Trucks, Scotts International, bio-
Mérieux and Bayer CropScience. International organizations with a presence in Lyon include the World Health Organization, Interpol and Euronews.

Research and development operations are well represented in Lyon, with 10 percent of all French researchers — about 10,000 in all — working in the region. There are more than 500 public and private laboratories, and 12 percent of all French patents are filed here. Overall, research and development accounts for more than 2 percent of the region’s GDP. Large-scale research centers, foundations and scientific facilities dot the region, with names that read like a who’s who in the field: the Minatec Center for Micro and Nano-Technology, the European Organization for Nuclear Research, the International Agency for Research on Cancer and the Information Technology Electronics Laboratory.

To encourage and fuel its growth, the city offers robust assistance to companies that want to relocate to the area, through the Lyon Area Economic Development Agency. Despite the impressive statistics, however, Lyon is not resting on its laurels.

Major improvements in the city’s economy and development include the Lyon Confluence, one of the largest urban renewal projects currently underway in Europe. The multi-phase project will revitalize a 370-acre industrial area south of the Presqu’ile district, effectively doubling the size of the city center. The project will house office and residential space as well as a variety of services and leisure facilities. Companies already committed to occupy the Confluence include the headquarters of Le Progres, Lyon’s daily newspaper, and the headquarters for the Espace Group radio stations. Most of the project is slated for completion by 2009, with the final phases complete by 2015.

Other improvements include the June 2006 opening of the 3,000-seat amphitheater at the Lyon Convention Center, which dramatically boosted the capacity of the complex for large events. The amphitheater was designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano with an eye to luring conventions, trade shows and international conferences.

The Eurexpo Convention and Exhibition Center also is expanding with the addition of 400,000 square feet of exhibition space this year. When the expansion is complete, the center will be France’s third largest exhibition center, the first two being located in Paris. At present, the center draws more than 15,000 exhibitors and 1.5 million visitors a year.

Also new is a development project on the left bank of the Rhone River, which will be transformed into about three miles of parks and walking and biking paths.

Tourism is a booming industry in the city, with business travel accounting for 70 percent of the market. Lyon drew nearly 2.5 million business travelers in 2005, according to the Union of International Associations. This group generated about $250 million, representing a 12-percent increase over 2004. Theaverage length of stay for business travelers is 1.5 days, and the number of hotel rooms, currently about 11,500, went up by 300 between 2004.

The average length of stay for business travelers is 1.5 days, and the number of hotel rooms, currently about 11,500, went up by 300 between 2004 and 2005.

To accommodate the increase in traffic, the transportation infrastructure of the city is in expansion mode, with the 2006 kick-off of ULYS, a project at Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS) that will include a four-star hotel, office space, a business center and a
covered parking garage. The improvements are expected to add to the already strong list of attractions in what has long been one of France’s ost interesting and dynamic cities.


LODGING

HOTEL DE LA CITÉ CONCORDE LYON

The Hotel de la Cité Concorde Lyon, which opened in November 2006, is situated in the city center near Lyon’s business district on the edge of the Parc de la Tête d’Or. The ambience is contemporary and low-key with 14 meeting rooms outfitted with tate-of-the-art equipment.The 164 guestrooms include five suites, and the restaurant features a terrace that can hold up to 70. The bar scene is lively and spills onto a panoramic terrace that accommodates up to 50 people. $$-$$$$
HOTEL DE LA CITÉ CONCORDE LYON
22 Quai Charles de Gaulle
tel 33 4 7817 8686, fax 33 4 7817 8686
http://www.concorde-hotels.com

SOFITEL LYON

The Sofitel Lyon walks that fine line between business hotel and cultural haven, thanks to its location near the toney art galleries and antique dealers of Lyon.There are 164 guestrooms, 26 of which are junior suites and five of which are designed for travelers with disabilities. Guestrooms are equipped with wireless Internet and satellite TV. Foodies can enjoy the talents of the Michelin-star chef, Alain Desville, who oversees the cuisine at Les Trois Domes. More casual fare is served up at Le Sofishop brasserie, while jazz lovers flock to Le Mehlor bar. Le Frigoli bar is set up for business confabs, or meeting attendees can set up in any of the nine meetings rooms, which can accommodate up to 400 people. $$$$
SOFITEL LYON
20 Quai Gailleton
tel 33 4 7241 2020, fax 33 4 7240 0550
http://www.sofitel.com

THE COUR DES LOGES HOTEL

The Cour des Loges Hotel, comprising four restored Renaissance buildings, is tucked down a narrow street in the heart of Lyon’s charming historic district. The decor of this 62-room property is ultra modern, with WiFi and Philippe Starck-designed bathrooms, contrasted with rich fabrics and other dramatic touches of the 14th to 17th centuries.The lobby features a glass atrium with dramatic interiors, and the public rooms are organized around an inner courtyard and a swimming pool.The restaurant de Cour des Loges lives up to Lyon’s reputation for gastronomy with a mix of traditional and cutting edge cuisine. $$$$
THE COUR DES LOGES HOTEL
2-8 Rue du Boeuf
tel 33 4 7277 4444, fax 33 4 7240 9361
http://www.courdesloges.com


DINING

NICOLAS LE BEC

This restaurant holds the distinction of winning its first Michelin star just two months after it opened, thanks to the culinary talents of its chef and namesake. Diners with sophisticated palates can expect lenty of truffles in season, along with oysters and, of course, fois gras. The décor is restrained, with blond woods, white table linens and a private room for separate functions. The good news is that all this culinary splendor can be affordable, thanks to the business lunch menu, priced from about $65. $$$-$$$$
NICOLAS LE BEC
14 Rue Grolée
tel 33 4 7842 1500, fax 33 4 7240 9897
http://www.nicolaslebec.com

LE CARO DE LYON
Le Caro de Lyon offers atmosphere in abundance, with a fire crackling in the fireplace and walls covered with bookcases and paintings.The wheelchairaccessible restaurant seats 150, and diners can expect an eclectic, creative menu, including some traditional Lyon-naise dishes along with inventively prepared beef and seafood. $$$-$$$$
LE CARO DE LYON
25 Rue du Bât d’Argent
tel 33 4 7839 5858, fax 33 4 7207 9896
http://www.lecarodelyon.com

CAFÉ COMPTOIR ABEL
Café Comptoir Abel is an example of a Lyonnaise bouchon, so named for its traditional fare featuring, among other things, organ meats, sausages and fowl, served in surprisingly appetizing fashion in a variety of sauces. Café Comptoir Abel has preserved much of its historic décor and offers an ambience not too different from that which drew its first customers in the 18th century. $$-$$$
CAFÉ COMPTOIR ABEL
25 Rue Guynemer
tel 33 4 7837 4618, fax 33 4 7837 1731


Just the Facts

Time Zone: GMT +1
Phone Code: 33 France, 4 Lyon
Currency: Euro
Entry/Exit Requirements: U.S.
citizens need a passport for entry into France. A visa is not required
for tourist/business stays up to days. For more information concerning
entry requirements for France, contact the Embassy of France at 4101 Reservoir Road, N.W.,Washington, D.C. 20007, tel 202 944 6000, or the French Consulates General in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, New York or San Francisco. Official Language: French
Key Industries: Research, chemistry,
biotechnology, textiles, transportation and tourism.


Checking In With Valérie Ducaud
Director of the Lyon Convention Bureau

Global Traveler: What are the most significant industries in Lyon today?
Valerie Ducaud: We have 15 competitiveness clusters, as determined by the state, in Rhone-Alpes, five of which are located in Lyon.Virology, immunology, vaccines, cancer treatment, post genomics, neurosciences and bio services are excellence sectors in the Lyon region that have attracted world leaders such as bioMérieux, Sanofi Pasteur, Merial and DS Pharma.

GT: How important is the Lyon Confluence project?
VD: The Confluence is the largest European work in a city, and it will result in a real new city center, including a museum, restaurants, hotels and apartments. The Confluence will also attract jobs, services, institutions and major events to the city center. Finally, it will announce the entrance of the city to people as they arrive from the South.

GT: Is there more to the textile industry in Lyon than just a preponderence of silk shops in the city ?
VD: The textile industry is one of our clusters. Lyon is inventing what we call “intelligent textiles,” and 65 percent of French high-tech fabrics are produced in the Rhone-Alpes region.We represent 12 percent of their European production.

GT: Lyon is considered the culinary heart of France. How important is that to the economy?
VD: Gastronomy is a crucial point for business travelers. As our city is known for good food, visitors have high expectations when they come to Lyon. Twenty-five restaurants in the Rhone-Alpes and 15 in Lyon are starred in the Michelin Guide, but Lyon also embraces the food revolution. Our eating habits have turned upside down as our cuisine has become less rigid and more eclectic. Lyon’s chefs are having fun destructuring [the cuisine], and the advocates of this … trend are also laying out the foundations for a new culinary dynamism.


DIVERSIONS

Explore Old Town, known to locals as Vieux Lyon, an area of the city so picturesque that it’s been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ask the tourist office (Place Bellecour, tel 33 4 7277 6969,

 

www.lyon-france.com) for a map of the traboules, a series of secret passages that provide shortcuts through the winding Old Town streets, offering a peek into architecturally interesting and historic courtyards tourists would otherwise overlook.

Work off that last meal at the Tête d’Or Park (Jardin Botanique Parc de la Tête d’Or, tel 33 4 7989 0203, http://www.fourviere.com), known for its four dramatic towers. From here, you can enjoy a sweeping panoramic view of the city and the Roman amphitheater below.

Jump forward in history to World War II at the Centre for Resistance and Deportation (14 Avenue Berthelot, tel 33 4 7273 9906,http://www.lyon.fr , which served as a Nazi headquarters during the occupation.Take a selfguided audio tour of the site, which also features traveling exhibitions that highlight more recent conflagrations worldwide.

Snap up a silk scarf at the Crois-Rousse silk district and observe the master artisans at work.The Atelier de Soierie (33 Rue du Romarin, tel 33 4 7200 2936,www.atelierdesoierie.com) offers demonstrations of silk-printing techniques that are likely to pop up on the runway next season. Or visit the silk boutiques along the Passage Thiaffait (http://www.passagethiaffait.fr),where young, cutting-edge artists make and sell their wares.

Paris may be the “City of Light”, but Lyon sparkles with its own nighttime glamour when 1,000 lights illuminate some of the city’s most
important sites. Discover why the city is known for being the No. 2 spot for nightlife in France, particularly in Vieux Lyon.Try Les Annees Folles (13 Quai Romain Rolland, tel 33 4 78 42 44 14,

< a href=”http:www.anneesfolles-lyon.com”>

www.anneesfolles-lyon.com) for a dinner show featuring a traditional menu, or go after hours — it’s open until 5 a.m. for breakfast. Or find out why disco never really died in France at the Black and White (18 Quai Romain Rolland,
tel 33 4 78 42 36 34,www.bwnight.com).


INFO TO GO

Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS), which serves 6 million passengers
a year on average, is situated some 15 miles from the city center.
Among the airlines that serve the airport are Air France, British
Airways and Alitalia. TGV connections (http://www.raileurope.com) from Paris Gare de Lyon and from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport serve Lyon, which operates two train stations: Perrache and Part- Dieu. The Satobus (http://www.satobus.com ) offers inexpensive shuttle service every 20 minutes or so from Saint-Exupéry to the city for about $11 each way. Expect to pay $50-plus for a taxi from the airport to the city center.

A second airport, Lyon Bron Airport (LYN), located about nine miles from the city center, specializes in business aviation and special VIP ervices and offers no commercial flights.

Once in the city, the metro (http://www.tcl.fr) not only provides extensive service, but is also well connected to the bus and train stations.Visitors can also get around in Tourist Taxis (http://www.lyon-taxis-touristiques .com) driven by guides who add commentary to their navigation.

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