Yosuke and Masumi are Japanese friends of mine who are living in Stamford, Conn., while Yosuke works for an international shipping company in New York City. Since their daughter, Sakura, was born seven years ago, they have been visiting their families in Tokyo at least once a year, always taking their daughter with them. For little Sakura, Tokyo is a wonderful world of brilliant colors, high-intensity neon, mesmerizing aquariums, amazing toy stores and, of course, Tokyo Disneyland. While her grandparents wish she would pay more attention to them, it is Tokyo’s pulsating energy and kid-friendly parks, amusement centers and museums that captivate her, along with Tokyo’s more than 1.5 million kids under the age of 14.
Japan’s invigorating capital city is an irresistible attraction for adult visitors, and it is no less so for children. Kids quickly acclimate to Tokyo’s creative and futuristic atmosphere by visiting the Tokyo Metropolitan Children’s Hall, a six-story building filled with innovative play areas, hands-on art and music studios, scientific craft areas and the fun-filled human body maze. Japan’s superiority in the world of children’s high-tech games is evident in the Sega-operated Tokyo Joypolis. Centrally located in the Shibuya-ku district, the facility offers activities for toddlers through high school, including virtual reality and action rides like Spin Bullet and Half-pipe Canyon, and a cafeteria for lunch or snacks. Admission is free, although some crafts may need to be purchased on site. A wonderful rooftop playground is open during the summer.
Metropolitan Tokyo is huge, about 4,300 square miles, and distances can seem daunting, but the city’s extensive subway and train service is efficient, safe and frequent. All station signs and directions are in English and Japanese, and various types of adult and child ticket pricing options make taking the train much more affordable and much faster than taxis or private cars.
One of the more interesting aquariums in Tokyo is Shinagawa Aquarium, not only because of its marine attractions but because its location along the coast south of Tokyo enables visitors to see another part of the greater metropolitan area. Opened in 1991, the aquarium has several tanks, including shark and rainforest tanks, a seal observation building and a not-to-be-missed underwater tunnel through the largest tank.
About 20 minutes by train from Shinjuku Station is Ghibli Museum, a venue so popular that only visitors with advance ticket reservations are allowed entry. The Museum’s website has information on purchasing admission tickets for future dates. There are always short films to see, and numerous imaginative spaces — including the second-floor Cat Bus, the Space of Wonder and the fascinating Central Hall — make the Ghibli an outstanding attraction for the entire family.
Another child-friendly venue is a theme park called Sanrio Puroland, located about 40 minutes by train from Shinjuku Station. The park-like amusement complex sports seven distinct areas, including Fairyland Theatre, The Time Machine of Dreams, Entertainment Hall, a Character Boat Ride and Kitty’s House. There is also a six-story building with numerous food and shopping outlets.
If your children are into Pokémon, there is no better place to pick up some additional games than in the country where it originated. A visit to the Pokémon Center in Tokyo is an easy jaunt from most hotels. The store is large and sells all types of Pokémon products. There are branches in five other Japanese cities; and although the Tokyo store is especially crowded on weekends, it is open every day of the year.
The Water Science Museum is located in the Koto district, one of the more eclectic redevelopment sections of Tokyo, and much of the museum is actually a real water-supply station. The museum part is great for all ages, especially the Aqua Planet Theater’s virtual whitewater rafting trip, and admission is free.
Tokyo Dome, home of the Yomiuri Giants baseball team, is the centerpiece of Dome City, a lively entertainment area in downtown Tokyo. Kids and parents love attending games here, with plenty of fans singing team songs and lively musicians playing in the stands. In addition to the domed baseball stadium, the complex features an outdoor amusement park with a giant “hub-less” Ferris wheel called Bio-O, an indoor amusement park called Geopolis, the Thunder Dolphin rollercoaster and the Wonder Drop water slide. There are lots of rides for the very little ones as well, including those in Splash Garden and Parachute Land. Shoehorned in among all these attractions you’ll find Spa LaQua, an upscale, natural hot springs spa complex (children under age 6 are not admitted); and the Tokyo Dome Hotel, a 43-story building with 1,006 guestrooms and numerous restaurants and shops.
A visit to Tokyo, especially with kids in tow, would not be complete without a side trip to Tokyo Disney Resort, about 15 minutes by express train from downtown Tokyo. Constructed 25 years ago, Tokyo Disneyland, like its American counterparts in Los Angeles and Orlando, continues to evolve and remains as popular as ever with Japanese residents and overseas visitors. It is one of the most-visited theme parks in the world.
There are seven themed “lands” within Disneyland, including Toon Town and Critter Country. There is also Tokyo Disney Sea, opened in 2001 next to Disneyland, and this park also has seven themed sections, all related to water, like Mediterranean Harbor and Arabian Coast. Encircling the two parks is a three-mile monorail called the Disney Resort Line.
Although the express trains from Tokyo are fast, many visitors elect to stay one or two nights in or near the park since much of the entertainment and exciting fireworks occur in the evening. Various combination packages that include train transportation, hotel and park tickets are available; visitors should book as far in advance as possible, especially during the busy summer season.
Finally, spend time in any of the large Tokyo department stores, where shoppers can not only pick up great souvenirs but also find some good food: The lower floors of the stores have excellent food markets that sell the ubiquitous bento boxes (lunch boxes) packed with tasty items and ready for an outdoor picnic in the park. Appetizing supplies of cheese, fruits, vegetables, yogurt, bread and o-sembe rice crackers are also for sale, with many vendors handing out free samples.
Info To Go
The best transport from Narita International Airport (NRT), 42 miles from central Tokyo, is the new high-speed Keisei Sky Access train, started in July 2010, which zips from the terminal to downtown in just 36 minutes ($26). More long-haul flights are now arriving at the new International Terminal at Haneda Airport (HND), which opened in October 2010 and is only 8.5 miles and 20–30 minutes by train to Tokyo’s downtown. Buses and taxis serve both airports. Visit http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp.
Lodging
Hotel Okura Tokyo
Celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2012, Hotel Okura Tokyo is both elegant and child-friendly. Spacious Grand Comfort Rooms and junior suites feature separate sitting areas that can easily accommodate a roll-away bed for kids. 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, tel 81 3 3582 0111, $$$$
Shinagawa Prince Hotel
Japan’s largest hotel includes a daycare center, an 11-screen cinema, indoor and outdoor pools, Epson Aqua Stadium, indoor sports facilities and 18 dining options. 10-30 Takanawa 4-chome, Minato-ku, tel 81 3 3440 1111, $$$$
Tokyo Disneyland Hotel
Guests receive free Disney Monorail tickets and can book a Disney Character Room. Facilities include shops, restaurants and an outdoor pool. Tokyo Disneyland, tel 81 4 7305 3333, $$$$
Dining
Aoi-Marushin
Tempura is the house specialty at this family-style restaurant near Sensoji Temple. Floor or table seating and an English menu are available. 1-4-4 Asakusa, Taito-ku, tel 81 3 3841 0110 $$$
Darumaya
Everyone will love this place, serving the best ramen noodles in Tokyo. Order ramen with grilled vegetables or daruma soba with barbecued pork. 1F Murayama Building, 5-9-5 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, tel 81 3 3499 6295 $
Homework’s
When the craving hits for an American burger, try one of 15 varieties at Homework’s, made with natural ingredients and their own bread. 1F Shichiseisya Building, 5-1-20 Hiroo, Shiubuya-ku; and 1F Vesta Building,1-5-8, Azabujuban, Minato-ku, $$
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