LIKE AN APHRODISIAC, TAHITI SEDUCES.
That makes it the perfect place to plan a romantic getaway — perhaps even a wedding or vow renewal. Seas splotched with a bevy of blue hues, towering jade green volcanoes, snow-white beaches and a deeply entrenched French culture (think wine) combine to make this South Pacific getaway one of the most impassioned places on Earth.
Given that all of Tahiti’s 120 islands exude a vibe for endearment, ardent adventures come naturally here. While many explore the heart-shaped Moorea just a ferry ride from the main island, lounge about in an overwater bungalow amid the limpid lagoon of Bora Bora or play Robinson Crusoe on farther-flung, diminutive places such as tiny Tikehau, any stay in French Polynesia will awaken the lover within. But why not take the deserted island motif a step further and discover Tahiti’s Hidden Paradise Islands?
In the spirit of Tahitian friendliness, the main town on the island of Huahine is dubbed Maeva, meaning “welcome.” With a 20-mile sinuous road running beside small hamlets and ascending high into the hills, the sparsely occupied island — actually two motus joined by a bridge — boasts stellar views of crystalline, azure lagoons and cloud-white beaches. At intervals, restored Tahitian temples, called marae, and ancient, stone fish traps portray the island’s culture. Pastoral soil, fertile enough for watermelon and cantaloupe farms, also vaunts groves of bananas and mangos. Ubiquitous coffee and vanilla plantations, too, waft their ice cream shop-worthy perfume. In autumn, cheer on the paddlers in the world’s largest outrigger canoe race, the Hawaiki Nui Va’a. Surfers can contemplate joining the pros at Ayamoa Pass, where huge waves beckon.
Two other Hidden Paradise islands, like sister land masses, share the same barrier reef. Taha’a, the “Vanilla Island,” brims with plantations, all emitting an intoxicating aroma. Numbering just 4,000, the inhabitants excel at fishing in the lagoon and take the opportunity each November to participate in a fascinating stone fishing tournament. Using a centuries-old method, competitors wade into the transparent water, disturbing its mirror-like glow with stones tied to ropes. As they beat the water, they scare the fish, sending their prey ashore.
Raiatea, where the storied kings of Tahiti once congregated, remains a site of ceremony and ritual, sacred to this day to Tahitians. Today, islanders re-enact history for visitors at a local marae, honoring the traditions of the ancestors. This sacred island holds the only navigable river in French Polynesia, which locals and tourists alike cruise in outrigger canoes. Plan to sail, deep-sea fish or explore the slopes of Mount Temehani, where the rare tiare apetahi grows. Legendary, this flower features five petals, said to represent the hand of a Tahitian maiden who fell in love with a Tahitian prince. Walk at dawn to hear the flower opening, its sputtering sound poetically explained as the echo of her broken heart.
Northeast of Tahiti, the Tuamotu stretches out across more than 7,500 miles of sea. Comprising 76 islands, Tuamotu holds four atolls, island chains formed from coral. Rangiroa, the second-largest atoll in the world and one of French Polynesia’s most celebrated, easily earns its nickname, the “infinite lagoon.” Thanks to its coral ring, Rangiroa bewitches with its eyepopping array of blues, a watery expanse of cobalt, lapis and turquoise. Here, the greatest shark dive area in the world awaits at Tiputa Pass. Immersed, divers spy legions of lemon, nurse, black-tip, white-tip and gray sharks. Atop, snorkelers won’t miss out, as views boggle the mind. Expect to see scores of dolphins at play. With a terroir some liken to Burgundy, Rangiroa also produces its own wine. Small-production vineyards have been most successful with Muscat and Carignan grapes.
Instituting the first pearl farm, Manihi, another Hidden Paradise isle, set the standard for pearl farming across Tahiti. Here, black-lipped oysters continue to yield prized black pearls. Tikehau, 10 miles from Rangiroa, part of Tuamotu, boasts pink-sand beaches and exceptional scuba opportunities. Manta ray, barracuda and sea turtle sightings go without saying. Quiet, low-key, undeveloped Tikehau epitomizes the harried city visitor’s vision of a slowed-down, carefree, tranquil dreamscape.
Exotic and farther-flung, the Marquesas Islands lie 930 miles northeast of Tahiti. With a mysterious aura, they comprise 12 islands, with only six inhabited. Dramatic, they contrast starkly to much of French Polynesia as they lack lagoons. Dense jungle carpets mountainous terrain, and intense cliffs and soaring, 1,200-foot-high waterfalls compose the landscape. Difficult to access, the Marquesas offer lodging on the most populated islands, Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva. Intrepid tourists can arrive via the Aranui 5, a working cargo ship and ferry, though flights from Papeete are available as well, five times a week. Art aficionados can pay homage to memories of Paul Gauguin, who painted and retired here.
Birders and nature fans won’t want to miss Fakarava, which locals refer to as the “Dream Island.” Part of a UNESCO biosphere reserve, its unusual ecosystem results in rare flora and fauna such as the Tuamotu palm and the hunting kingfisher. Pay a visit to the centuries-old village of Tetamanu, home to one of Tahiti’s first Catholic churches, circa 1862, constructed almost solely of coral.
Understandably, more and more travelers choose Tahiti for romantic getaways — including honeymoons, babymoons and destination weddings. While actual wedding ceremonies are legal for couples from many countries, including the United States and Canada, it’s easiest to exchange vows at home and plan a symbolic Tahitian ceremony in French Polynesia. In the Hidden Paradise Islands, the event includes such flourishes as arrival to the altar by dugout canoe, Tahitian drums, dancing, flowers in profusion and a veritable headdress-wearing local priest to lead the nuptials. Add some French wine, local fare with French flavors and overwater fantasy suites, and you’ve got the tropical soirée of your dreams.
Tahiti Info to Go
Most often called Tahiti, French Polynesia is found in the South Pacific, approximately eight hours by plane from the city of Los Angeles. It lies in the same time zone as Hawai’i. Fly Air Tahiti Nui, a French airline based in Papeete, Tahiti, which operates long-haul flights from its home base at Faa’a International Airport. Travel between the islands is best achieved by ferry or short flight. A number of airlines provide intra-island service, including Air Tahiti. Both Windstar and Paul Gauguin cruise lines offer trips among the five archipelagos which compose French Polynesia.
Where to Stay in Tahiti
HOTEL KIA ORA RESORT AND SPA An oasis of stand-alone cottages on the bluest body of water imaginable, this cosseting hotel regales guests with superior French fusion cuisine and a state-of-the-art spa. Avatoru, Rangiroa $$$$$
VAHINE ISLAND RESORT AND SPA This 23-acre, private island resort, a Small Luxury Hotel of the World, offers an intimate castaway fantasy with just nine suites, three over the water. Breathtaking sunsets over Bora Bora in the distance seal the deal. Vahine Island, Taha’a $$$$
TIKEHAU PEARL RESORT A sleepy, subtly luxurious hotel with overwater bungalows and beachside casitas, this French-intoned, eco-resort-style, deserted island retreat takes you to bliss. Tikehau $$$$
Restaurants in Tahiti
OPOA BEACH RESTAURANT Located seaside, the farm-to-table restaurant serves Raiatea’s bounty. Enjoy house-baked pastries in the morning and candlelit, seafoodbased dinners at night. Opoa Beach Hotel, Uturoa, Raiatea $$$
LES RELAIS DE JOSÉPHINE Look out from this small inn across the Tiputa Pass to see dolphins crossing as you dine at its stellar, Frenchsavvy restaurant with an intimate, romantic ambience. Great place to taste Rangiroa wines. Avatoru, Rangiroa $$
YVONNE’S On the largest of the Marquesas Islands, rollicking Yvonne’s serves huge portions of home-cooked seafood and sandwiches, ideal for lunch. Expect a roast pig and live music at this alfresco spot catering to locals and tourists. Hatiheu, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands $$
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