Once the sun sinks behind the mountains of Kyoto, the city darkens, quiets and closes its doors. However, if you know where to slide open the proverbial screen, you’ll encounter a vibrant night world in this former capital of Japan, established in 794. In addition to steamy noodle shops and student-filled dance clubs, you’ll find elegant riverfront restaurants, lively pubs and entertainment ranging from kimono-clad singers to kabuki theater actors.

While business travelers to Japan tend to be escorted by their Japanese hosts, occasionally you may be on your own. If so, consider a pre-prandial cocktail at your hotel, since Kyoto’s bar scene tends to rev up after dinner. In the sleek, candlelit The Bar in The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto, you’ll find an impressive array of classic and modern drinks, while the cozy, antique-filled Touzan Bar in the Hyatt Regency Kyoto serves more than 30 different premium sakés, including several made in Kyoto.

Because of its inland location, Kyoto is famous for its vegetables, not sushi, along with Buddhist vegetarian fare (Kyoto boasts more than 2,000 temples and shrines) such as yudofu (homemade tofu simmered in water with various accompaniments). Because the emperor once lived in Kyoto, the cuisine is delicate and refined, light on spices, oils and soy. Options range from the budget-friendly Japanese savory pancake (okonomiyaki) to kaiseki, a multicourse meal rooted in the Japanese tea ceremony and considered Japan’s most lauded cuisine.

Traditional elegant kaiseki meal © Lcc54613 | Dreamstime.com

You’ll find exceptional kaiseki at the century-old Kikunoi, where, overlooking an illuminated garden, you’ll encounter a parade of small, seasonal dishes featuring such ingredients as chestnuts and fresh ginkgo nuts. In autumn dishes arrive adorned with flame-colored maple leaves. Yoshikawa near the Imperial Palace serves some of the best tempura in the city, while Ikkyu, just outside Daitokuji Temple, serves sumptuous vegetarian Buddhist temple fare as it has since the 1400s.

For after-hours entertainment, the Gion has the highest concentration of teahouses filled with geiko (the Kyoto term for geisha) and maiko (geisha in training) amusing clients through song, drinking games and dance. While it’s almost impossible to enter an exclusive teahouse without a Japanese host, you can book a performance at Gion Corner to view maiko dancing or hear zither or Japanese court music.

If you want a nightcap, realize most Japanese bars feel hidden, often tucked away down lantern-lit alleys and behind unmarked doors and smoked glass. Hello Dolly in the lively Pontacho district offers strong drinks and great jazz, while nearby Bar Cordon Noir serves approximately 600 kinds of whiskey, including several standout brands made in Japan. LGBT travelers will find few places to connect in Kyoto, unlike in Tokyo and nearby Osaka. That said, the gay-friendly bar Azure welcomes foreigners.

A final tip: Be sure to carry a card from your hotel. That way, no matter what time your evening ends, a taxi can deliver you safely (and in style) to your door.