You feel it as soon as you step off the plane. Everything around you is big and showy, glitzy and glamorous. Las Vegas, perhaps? Tokyo? Think again. You’re in Dubai: The largest city in the United Arab Emirates stands as one of the world’s fastest growing tributes to consumerism, replete with more high-tech trappings and gilded luxury trimmings than most of us can imagine.

Yet less than a generation ago, Dubai was just beginning to wake from slumber; a sleepy fishing village on the Persian Gulf barely aware of the changes on its horizon.

One of seven former Trucial states (a reference to a 19th century truce between Great Britain and the ruling sheiks) that now comprise the United Arab Emirates, Dubai’s road trip to riches began in the late 1990s when Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktoum, then prime minister of Dubai and vice president of the United Arab Emirates, made it his mission to transform Dubai into one of the world’s leading tourist destinations.

It was a natural fit. Dubai is bathed in year-round sunshine and hugged by miles of pristine beaches. To maximize its potential, the powers that be came up with a unique idea: Make more beaches. That’s when Nakheel Corp. entered the picture. The world’s largest privately held real estate developer solved the problem by building islands — three giant palm trees and a “map” of the globe that today, just seven years after the first shovelful of sand was dropped into the Arabian Gulf, are visible from outer space.

While construction continues, the islands are already home to a growing number of luxury residential developments and exclusive resorts. By the time the multi-tiered project is completed, it will have added more than 600 miles to Dubai’s coastline.

With a population of 860,000, Dubai is the commercial and tourism center of the region. Petroleum and oil reserves dominate the economy, though more than 6,000 companies representing upwards of 120 countries operate at the Jebel Ali complex in Dubai — a deepwater port and duty-free trade zone. Dubai’s diversification strategy has made it the top tourism destination in the region: Travel and tourism now account for 3.5 percent of the overall gross domestic product. Dubai’s reputation as the “City of Gold” suits jewelry shoppers, while beachgoers, golfers and diners enjoy the spoils of some of the world’s most ambitious, intricate resorts and business hotels.

The “newness” of Dubai and the complexity of its scope are almost overwhelming; it’s as if the entire city were a movie set or a model home. You almost expect the business district to have that “new car smell,” and the resort areas are themed like a massive amusement park of fine dining, sporting activities, culture and luxury.

City planners, admittedly, brought in the best consultants in every relevant field and partnered with them to learn the ways of successful development, from construction of what will be the world’s tallest building to the first indoor ski resort. The result is part Monte Carlo and part Silicon Valley — all under the scorch of a desert sun that shines on the glowing newness of the possible.

LODGING

BURJ AL ARAB

Resembling a massive, billowing sailboat, this luxurious, all-suite, 1,053-foot-high landmark hotel is built on a tiny island (accessible by private bridge) just off the coast. Chauffer-driven Rolls-Royce courtesy cars take guests to business appointments and shopping trips; check-in occurs in one of the 202 ornate, goldaccented, two-story suites, as large as 8,396 square feet, with sweeping views, scurrying butlers and pampering that includes a pillow menu with 13 choices and a walk-in shower and Jacuzzi with aromatherapy baths prepared by the spa staff. The view from the Skyview Bar atop the hotel is breathtaking, just as viewing the Burj Al Arab’s exterior from the beach below is hypnotic.$$$$
BURJ AL ARAB
Jumeirah/ Umm Suqueim
tel 971 4 301 7777
http://www.burj-al-arab.com

KEMPINSKI HOTEL MAL OF THE EMIRATES

Europe’s oldest collection of luxury hotels embraces one of the most amazing feats of modern technology in Dubai — Alpine skiing in the desert. The hotel offers 393 deluxe guestrooms and suites plus 15 ski chalets alongside Ski Dubai — the world’s first indoor ski resort, 279 feet high and 1,300 feet long with five runs, a quad chairlift, and 30-degree temperatures. The 5-star hotel is also adjacent to Mall of the Emirates, the largest shopping mall in the region, and Magic Planet, the largest indoor family center in the Middle East. Amenities include a fitness center and spa, golf at the nearby Emirates Golf Club and full business facilities.$$$$
KEMPINSKI HOTEL MAL OF THE EMIRATES
Sheikh Zayed Road at Mall of the Emirates
tel 971 4 341 0000
http://www.kempinski-dubai.com

FAIRMONT DUBAI
The Fairmont Dubai is located in Dubai’s financial district and convenient to shopping, golf clubs and beaches. Directly linked to the Dubai International Convention Centre by a dedicated covered walkway, the 394-room property includes Fairmont’s signature Fairmont Gold “hotel within a hotel” designated floors. The hotel boasts 10 dining and entertainment venues including Cin Cin, a chic wine bar showcasing more than 300 global labels. The Cigar Bar features a range of world-class cigars displayed in a walk-in humidor and the Willow Stream Spa offers treatments designed to restore globetrotting guests’ personal energy.$$$$
FAIRMONT DUBAI
Sheikh Zayed Road
tel 971 4 332 5555
http://www.fairmont.com/dubai

DINING

AL MAHARA

A three-minute, simulated submarine ride from the lobby of the Burj Al Arab to an aquarium setting sets the stage for a gourmet Mediterranean seafood dinner. Seating around a massive, glowing tropical fish tank gives diners a submerged feeling … as if they were diving for the oysters for which Al Mahara is named. A reservation also means brief admission to the otherwise private lobby of the Burj Al Arab hotel… all part of the show. $$$$
AL MAHARA
Burj Al Arab
tel 971 4 301 6076
http://www.burj-alarab.com

SHAHRZAD IRANIAN RESTAURANT

Although Iran lies across the Arabian Gulf from the United Arab Emirates, an Iranian feast awaits inside the Hyatt Regency Dubai. An open kitchen presents a taste of Tehran — tanour bread, grilled kebabs, pomegranate paste chicken and saffron ice cream — while Iranian musicians fill the room with melodies wafting through the tall columns and sculpted ceiling creating the effect of an Arabian Nights tale.$$$
SHAHRZAD IRANIAN RESTAURANT
Hyatt Regency Dubai
tel 971 4 209 1234
http://www.dubai.regency.hyatt.com

LAYALI

For a true sense of place, the newly opened Layali, on the beach of the colorful Madinat Jumeirah resort, is memorable. Your view of the iconic Burj Al Arab hotel, especially at night when its lights change color, and the sound of the waves lapping the shore, give sight and sound to complement the taste of traditional hummus, falafel and spiced cold chocolate or Moroccan tea, while the steamy apple tobacco smoke from a bubbly shisha pipe completes the sensory experience.$$
LAYALI
Madinat Jumeirah
tel 971 4 366 6730
http://www.madinatjumeirah.com

INFO TO GO

At Dubai International Airport (DXB), the Sheikh Rashid Terminal (T2) houses the state-of-the-art, 24-hour Dubai Duty Free shopping complex. The airport’s new Terminal 3, part of a $4.1-billion airport expansion, is expected to open later this year. The new terminal is designed to accommodate the A380 with 24 gates dedicated to the super-jumbo jet. Dubai’s extensive taxi system, the Dubai Transit Corporation, is the most frequently used means of public transportation. Rental cars are also available. The Roads and Transit Authority transports over 30 million people weekly on 193 bus routes.

DIVERSIONS

Sikkat Al Khail Street, Al Sabkha and Al Ras Street in Deira feature traditional Arab markets, or souks, selling gold jewelry, seasonings scooped from open sacks, perfume, daggers and other Arabian items, household goods and toys. For an authentic trading experience, visit the souks via an abra water taxi (tel 971 4 347 7788) across Dubai Creek following a visit to the interactive Dubai Museum, (tel 971 4 353 1862, http://www.dubaitourism.ae) in the Al Fahidi Fort, which was built in 1799 and has served as a palace and prison.

Non-Muslims can visit the peaceful, picturesque Jumeirah Mosque (tel 971 4 344 7755). Thrill-seekers might find a half-day desert safari (http://www.desertsafaridubai.com) more to their liking — driving over the majestic dunes in a jeep to enjoy sand skiing, camel rides and, at sunset, an authentic barbeque dinner, shisha and belly dancing show under the stars in a tented Bedouin outpost. Beware: The ride out can be bone-jarring, although the ride back in the dark after dinner is noticeably more placid.

Camel racing and horse racing can be seen in season on Thursday and Friday from October to April at the Al Wathba Camel Track and Nad Al Sheeba Race Course, home of the world’s richest horse race. Locals can handicap the races and win nominal amounts of money, but needn’t — in fact, may not — wager their own money to do so. The recreation is a gift from the sheik, who loves horse racing (tel 971 4 327 0077, http://www.dubairacingclub.com).

Wild Wadi (tel 971 4 348 4444, http://www.wildwadi.com), in the shadow of the Burj Al Arab along Jumeirah Beach, is one of the world’s most technologically advanced, exciting water parks, featuring “Master Blaster” rides that use highpowered water jets to propel riders up the twisting, looping water slides.