Unless you’ve personally experienced Doha recently, you will find it hard to believe that Qatar’s capital city is on the cusp of earning a place as a world-class tourist destination. And you probably have absolutely no idea how the average citizen in this classic Middle Eastern city lives and works. So, regardless of whether you’re in the region for business or leisure travel, be sure to make time to get out and experience Doha firsthand.

Stroll the Corniche and there’s no doubt you’ll be impressed by the city’s diversity. Visitors and locals alike — representing a kaleidoscope of cultures — go about their day-to-day business without a hint of cultural tension. “Power-walkers” range from expats decked out in running shoes and shorts to Muslim women covered from head to toe in black abeyyas — sneakers peeking out from under their robes as they walk.

Change has been in the wind coming off the desert in Doha and throughout Qatar. That change began in 1995 when the current emir, hh Sheikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani, took over the leadership of the country from his father. In 2003, the emir announced his son hh Sheikh Tamin Bin Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani as the heir apparent. Both of these steps heralded a political change as focus in Doha, and Qatar as a whole, shifted from remaining a wealthy nation bent on adhering to traditional Muslim values to earning a reputation as a country on the move — making progress and taking impressive steps toward becoming a top-notch destination for business and vacation travelers.

The official language of Qatar is Arabic, but English is widely spoken at hotels, souqs and throughout the city. Doha is an Islamic city in an Islamic state so it is best to behave accordingly (see sidebar). The official currency is the riyal.

Qatar’s coffers are full. With natural gas reserves of more than 900 trillion standard cubic feet in its North Field and oil reserves of more than 4.4 billion barrels, Qatar’s standard of living rivals that of many Western nations. The financial reserves of the country — smaller in size than the state of Connecticut with a population of less than 900,000 — can, at times, seem staggering.

Laws for foreign investment vary by project and type. For example, foreigners can invest up to 100 percent in agriculture, tourism, health and education. In other sectors, a local Qatari must hold a 51 percent stake in the business. Still others, such as banking and insurance, allow zero foreign investment. The goal of the varied policy seems to be to encourage investment in areas where outside participation will benefit the country.

Getting around the city is fairly easy, but there are no trains and bus service is limited. Visitors would do well to hire a car; your hotel can make the arrangements. You’ll then have ready access to an air-conditioned sedan at a rate of approximately $11 per hour. The alternative is to hail an orange-and-white taxi — a relatively simple and inexpensive option accomplished from just about any street corner. The downside, though, is that cabs are seldom air-conditioned — a result of mechanical failure or simply the preference of the driver.

If you are so inclined, renting a car is also an option, but make sure you fully understand the rates charged and the contract. Foreigners licensed to drive outside Qatar can operate a car in the country for up to seven days. If you are involved in an accident, stop where you are — do not pull over — and await the arrival of a police officer. All accidents have to be reported and nothing should be touched until an officer arrives. Believe it or not, no repairs can be made without a properly completed police report.

Think fast. Name one progressive and powerful nation without a commercial air fleet. Give up? There aren’t any. Perhaps that’s why Qatar relaunched its national carrier in 1997. In addition to servicing the Gulf region, Qatar Airways currently connects the region to more than 50 cities worldwide. Next year (or possibly as early as late 2004), the carrier plans to launch direct service between New York (jfk) and Doha (doh).

Why enter the u.s. market at a time when tensions between the United States and the Middle East remain high? Because Qatar and the United States have a friendly and mutually beneficial relationship that includes a u.s. air base, Al Udeid, where some 4,000 u.s. troops were stationed during the war in Afghanistan. Following the war, the United States continued to store significant equipment — including two dozen kc-135 Stratotankers and kc-10a Extenders — at the base for in-flight refueling of fighter jets and bombers. Although the number of Ameri-cans deployed at the base has dropped, Al Udeid remains capable of housing as many at 10,000 soldiers.

The changes taking place in Qatar — including the investment of $15 billion in the redevelopment of Doha and its environs — are significant. There’s no doubt the investment is designed to attract high-end tourism to the region with the development of an attractive beachfront, hotels, cultural attractions and sports facilities. Projects already in the works include the construction of a structure to host the Asian Games in 2006. Akbar Al Baker, chairman of Qatar Tourism and Qatar Airways, stated recently at the World Travel and Tourism Council’s annual Global Summit in Doha: “Qatar will offer the high end of the tourist market a fantastic travel experience of beach resorts, sun, expansive desert landscapes, a rich Arabic cultural heritage, prestigious hotels and expansive conference facilities, and a major international sporting event —all in a very safe environment.”

Details of The Master Plan, as it’s been dubbed:

* Eight new four- and five-star hotels will add a total of more than 2,550 rooms. Hotels on tap include The Four Seasons (opening in December), The Pearl Hotel, Marriott Courtyard, Marriott Apartments, Renaissance Hotel, The Shangri-La, Hilton and the Rotana.

* The 12.35-square-mile North Beach Development will include 10 resort hotels, two golf courses, 3,000 lifestyle villas, 12,000 apartments, 75 acres of shopping and 1,482 acres of commercial space.

* Not to be outdone by neighboring Dubai, u.a.e., and its gargantuan Palm Island development, Doha will construct its own Pearl Island (also known as Pearl of the Gulf). Set for occupancy in September 2006, the 1.5-square-mile island development will feature 7,600 high-end dwellings, three luxury hotels with more than 900 rooms combined, four marinas with space for 700 boats and community entertainment areas.

* Cultural venues are included, too. Plans call for the construction of a 485,000-square-foot Museum of Islamic Arts. The Museum will be built on the edge of Doha Harbor and will contain exhibitions, a study library, galleries and a garden.

* Along the Corniche will stand the new National Library, designed by Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. Isozaki’s other noteworthy projects include the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles and Olympic Stadium in Barcelona, Spain.

* Also on the Corniche will be a new Photography Museum that will center on the cultural history of Qatar. Plans are in the works for the redevelopment of the Qatar National Museum, which also focuses on the culture and history of the region. Qatar’s many historic forts will also get facelifts.

* Construction of the Al Fareej Resort, a family-friendly resort village featuring Arabian-styled chalets, is taking place near Al Khor, about 25 miles north of Doha.

* The Al Mafjar, a luxury resort built around a natural breakwater and lagoon, is under construction in the beach community of Al Sumaisma, 12 miles north of Doha.

* The country’s air transport infrastructure is also getting attention. A whopping $5 billion has been earmarked for the construction of a new international airport. Set to open in 2008 and be fully operational by 2015, the airport is expected to handle 50 million passengers annually.

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LODGING

Doha Marriott Hotel

Convenient to Doha International Airport and the business center of the city, the 350-room Marriott offers high-speed Internet access and dual-line telephones. The executive lounge on the top floor offers magnificent views of the city. There’s a marina, a private beach, tennis courts, a swimming pool and a spa.
Doha Marriott Hotel
P.O. Box 1911, Ras Abou Aboud Street
Doha, Qatar
tel 974 429 8888, fax 974 441 8784
www.marriott.com

Mövenpick Hotel Doha

While it’s not located directly on the beach, this 150-room hotel is an attractive option, operating much like a boutique property. The location is perfect for those who wish to take a morning jog or power walk on the Corniche. The staff is friendly and the food — served in three unique venues — is quite good. High-speed Internet access and a fitness center with sauna are much-appreciated amenities. The clublike pool area is pleasant and tranquil.
Mövenpick Hotel Doha
Corniche Road, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 429 1111, fax 974 429 1100
www.movenpick-hotels.com

Intercontinental Doha

Located in the West Bay area between the Sheraton and the Ritz-Carlton, this 245-room beachfront hotel’s claim to fame is its outdoor swimming pool — the largest in Qatar. The hotel features a health club, tennis and squash courts and is convenient to the Doha Golf Club.
InterContinental Doha
P.O. Box 6822, Al Istiqlal Road
Doha, Qatar
tel 974 484 4444, fax 974 483 9555
www.ichotelsgroup.com

The Ritz-Carlton, Doha
The 374-room Ritz-Carlton is located on its own island. The pièce de résistance? Every room features either an ocean- or golf course-view. Currently the only five-star property in Doha, it’s a clear choice for business travelers. Convenient to the Doha Golf Club, the hotel features nine restaurants and lounges, a well-equipped spa and fitness center, indoor/outdoor pool and indoor tennis and squash courts.
The Ritz-Carlton, Doha
P.O. Box 23400
Doha, Qatar
tel 974 484 8000, fax 974 484 8484
www.ritzcarlton.com

Sheraton Doha Hotel & Resort

A convention hotel overlooking the West Bay of the Arabian Gulf, the Sheraton is conveniently connected to an excellent conference facility capable of hosting large or small meetings. Guestrooms could use a facelift and are not wired for high-speed Internet access, which makes keeping up with business dealings a bit difficult. There is a business center adjacent to the lobby with several terminals available for pay-as-you-go guest use. The 363-room hotel does not yet feature Sheraton’s new Sweet Sleeper beds, but they will likely be part of a planned renovation. Amenities include a private beach and lagoon, outdoor swimming pools, indoor tennis and squash courts, water sports and nine restaurants. A decent buffet luncheon is served daily in the lobby.
Sheraton Doha Hotel & Resort
P.O. Box 6000, Al Corniche Street
Doha, Qatar
tel 974 485 4444, fax 974 483 2323
www.starwood.com/sheraton

Four Seasons Doha (opening in September)
This 18-story hotel under construction in the West Bay Complex near Doha’s diplomatic area is set to raise the bar for luxury in this capital city. An office tower in the planned complex will serve as headquarters for Qtel (Qatar Telecom), while two additional buildings will house a total of 120 luxury apartments. The 223-room hotel (including 61 suites) will include a cigar lounge and poolside grill.

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Dining

Al Shaheen

Diners enjoy magnificent views from this French-inspired restaurant atop the Sheraton Doha Hotel. The casual Friday brunch is quite popular, so book well in advance.
Al Shaheen
Sheraton Doha Hotel
Al Corniche Street, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 485 4444

Amwaj

Prepare to feast on an extensive buffet at this hotel restaurant. Theme nights include Asian, Middle Eastern, Indian and poolside barbecue.
Amwaj
InterContinental Doha
Al Istiqlal Road, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 484 4444

Asia Live

Asia Live offers a sushi bar plus Thai and Chinese specialties. Try the delectable Peking duck accompanied by a selection from the extensive list of sake and Asian beer.
Asia Live
Doha Marriott Hotel
P.O. Box 1911
Ras Abou Aboud Street, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 429 8888

Chingari

One of Doha’s most popular dining establishments, Chingari specializes in tandoori-style cuisine served in an authentic Indian atmosphere. Menu items described as “hot” are very hot, so order accordingly.
Chingari
Ramada Hotel
C Ring Road, Ramada Junction, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 441 7417

La Mer

Located atop the 23-story Ritz-Carlton, Doha, Le Mer is the perfect setting for a business dinner with important clients. Sit back and enjoy expansive views of the Arabian Gulf.
La Mer
The Ritz-Carlton, Doha
P.O. Box 23400, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 484 8000, fax 974 484 8484

Café Batteel

Featuring a décor reminiscent of a native dwelling, Café Batteel is noted for its fine bakery and second-floor restaurant. Menu options range from hamburgers to Arabic specialties. The restaurant does not serve alcohol.
Café Batteel
Salwa Road, Doha, Qatar
tel 974 431 2313

Fisherman’s Cove

Located in the marina at the Doha Marriott Hotel, Fisherman’s Cove is popular among the city’s expat population. Shellfish kebabs and grilled fish are specialties. Book well in advance for the Friday brunch.
Fisherman’s Cove
Doha Marriott Hotel
P.O. Box 1911, Ras Abou Aboud St.
Doha, Qatar
tel 974 429 8888

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Sightseeing

Wander through the city’s many well-preserved forts and wonder at the expansive sand dunes, but be sure to build in time for a visit to Khor Al Udeid, or Inland Sea. Despite its name, this body of water is not actually a landlocked sea. It’s a long, narrow channel of the Gulf that runs along the border separating Qatar from neighboring Saudi Arabia. It’s a bit off the beaten path. You’ll need a four-wheel drive vehicle or boat — the concierge at your hotel can help with arrangements — but it’s well worth the effort. The government-protected area is noted for its natural beauty and bounty of wildlife and migratory birds. You can drive over the sabkha (salt flats) to access the expansive and pristine beaches.

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Shopping

You’ll feel right at home during a shopping excursion to Doha’s Carre Four Mall. Starbucks, Hardee’s and all of your typical American mall stores blend seamlessly with their European and Middle Eastern counterparts. The design is unique and features an ice-skating rink at the center, inside an atrium that is at least four stories high. The city souq is great fun and offers an opportunity for die-hard bargain-hunters to test their negotiating skills in the maze of shops featuring everything from local household items, spices and clothing to intricately designed gold jewelry. As you haggle with shopkeepers, don’t hesitate to ask to borrow a calculator to figure out your best offer.

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Info to Go

Doha International Airport (DOH) is located three miles from the city center. Open 24 hours a day, the airport currently services in excess of 20 regional and international airlines and serves as the hub for Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com). The airport is undergoing a multi-million-dollar refurbishment and expansion program which will increase its capacity from 4.2 million passengers a year to 7.5 million passengers a year and provide a range of enhanced passenger services.

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Social Code

* Visitors should dress modestly. While it’s acceptable to don beachwear — even bikinis — at the beach or hotel swimming pools, cover up elsewhere.

* While visiting malls or souqs, women should avoid wearing sleeveless tops, see-through fabrics or anything that could be construed as “skimpy.”

* Men should avoid wearing tank tops and short athletic-style shorts. Stick with golf course– appropriate attire.

* Public displays of affection are unacceptable and, if deemed immoral, may lead to prosecution.

* Request permission before photographing local residents.

* Drinking alcoholic beverages is a serious offense in any public venue other than a licensed establishment.