While the city of Manila is the second largest in the Philippines and is its capital, Metro Manila comprises an agglomeration of cities that ranks among the world’s top 20 urban areas. And within this sprawl, which includes some of the most densely populated areas on Earth, one can observe the full spectrum of wealth and poverty that characterizes the nation.

Manila entered Western history in 1521 when Magellan claimed the island chain for Spain, an occupation that lasted until the Spanish American War, when the Philippines became an American colonial outpost. During World War II, it was taken over by the Japanese, and only in 1946 did it become a sovereign nation. This long history of occupation, as well as the splintered geographic structure of the nation, created a place with a multicultural past where English is widely spoken.

Manila’s airport deserves some special mention. There are three terminals: Terminal 3 is used by Cebu Pacific and ANA, Terminal 2 belongs to Philippine Airlines, and Terminal 1 houses everyone else and is noteworthy for being recognized as one of the worst anywhere on the globe. Arrivals can be slow, but the real test comes on departure when an undersized, dingy and depressing environment can make any wait seem interminable. Savvy travelers are advised to minimize time in this building.

Roxas Boulevard follows the curve of Manila Bay and has long been one of the premier addresses in Manila. With sweeping views of the water and, especially, its famed sunsets, it provides considerable green space in an otherwise crowded metro area. But as a primary thoroughfare, it is also often gridlocked with traffic — as are most of the other main routes. At almost any time of day, traffic can be daunting and the public transport options relatively few. The light rail system is also often crowded and seems less user-friendly than the Skytrain in Bangkok. As in many big cities, travel times need to be factored into any appointment or gathering.

Manila fountain © Joyfull | Dreamstime.com

Much of the financial and business activity takes place in Makati, a region slightly southeast of Manila. In the 1960s the area developed as a modern business hub and looks more like Los Angeles than nearby Manila, with a skyline of tall buildings, wide avenues (still filled with traffic) and huge shopping malls. Many of the metro area’s most exclusive housing communities are in or adjacent to Makati. While Manila retains many reminders of the nation’s past, Makati reflects the modern Philippines — and most of its historical importance is reflected in shops that deal in pricey antiques.

Many of the area’s major hotels either sit astride Roxas Boulevard or are located in Makati, though those on Roxas generally have a more picturesque view. Of special note is the Manila Hotel, built in 1912 and site of much of the city’s history over the past 100 years. And unlike other famous hotels, it has been painstakingly restored rather than replaced and is a piece of living history that deserves a visit even if one is staying elsewhere. It also boasts close proximity to other important historical sites of the nation’s past.

In general, hotel prices are low in comparison with many other capital cities — the Manila Hotel can be booked for well under $200 a night, as is the case with many of the high-end properties. Even suites tend to be far below similar accommodations in Tokyo or Hong Kong.

While one can never go wrong with a suit and tie, the climate is far more suited to the barong, a long-sleeved embroidered shirt that counts as formal wear in most of the country. For anyone spending extended periods in the Philippines, a custom-made barong is both acceptable and comfortable.

Manila is hot and humid for the entire year, with the much-bantered “cool season” being something of a misnomer. Rains can be torrential, and the city — as most of the country — sits in the path of many typhoons. While air-conditioning is universally available, any time outdoors will cause one to break a sweat.

In much of the Philippines, including many businesses, there exists a hierarchical system that clearly defines both status and responsibility. And punctuality is often a flexible concept. One of the societal traits that links to the nation’s Asian ethos is the concept of “face” — of being nonconfrontational. This can often be frustrating to those who want to “get to the point” as quickly as possible, but such an approach will likely be seen as imprudent, and the foreign visitor should be prepared for a more leisurely business pace than might be encountered in London, New York or even Singapore.

The Philippines has a long-established tradition of higher education and that, coupled with a proficiency in English, creates a language environment that is less challenging than may be the case in other parts of Asia. However, the nation is home to nearly 100 dialects, and sometimes the polyglot of languages and the easy substitution of Pilipino words can take visitors by surprise. In some local newspapers, language changes midsentence are not uncommon.

Often, rather than pointing with an arm or finger, the speaker will signal with pursed lips in the direction of something to be observed. Be aware when this happens and respond accordingly.

And when it comes to power meetings over a meal, the rich intermingling of cultures produces a multifaceted cuisine that includes Malay, Spanish, Chinese, as well as plenty of occidental recipes. Celebratory foods might include a lechon (whole roasted pig); adobo, which like other national staples comes in endless variations; or pancit noodles, again in many guises. For those wishing to go native, try balut, an egg with an almost fully developed embryo, usually crunched down with beer. And speaking of beer, the native brew, San Miguel, is cheap, plentiful and tasty.