Over the last 30 years Bangkok transformed itself from a sleepy backwater that literally flooded during monsoons to a plugged-in cosmopolitan metropolis — the latest version of this Buddhist city reincarnated dozens of times over the last century.

This new version of Bangkok is a delightful concoction of old and new, where the spires of ancient, glittering, gold-domed temples compete for skyline space with sparkling, modern, glass-sided office and condo towers. A city where the entrances of plush white-linen dining rooms share the sidewalks with frenetic tasty street food stalls, and the noisy hawkers of lustful hedonism compete for attention with the solemn chanting of meditating Buddhist monks.

Over the centuries Bangkok expanded outward from the Chao Phraya River, its main trading artery, so you’ll find most top attractions within easy walking distance of the river. To avoid the crush of tourists, start your day off early by hopping a water taxi to the Grand Palace across the river on Rattanakosin Island. The 200-year-old palace complex with its lavishly decorated Wat Phra Kaew (Chapel Royal of the Emerald Buddha) is the most beautiful and important Buddhist temple in Thailand.

After a couple of hours at the palace, take a water taxi to the dock servicing the city’s Chinatown. From there it’s a short walk to the famed Thanon Yaowarat (Yaowarat Road) that runs through Chinatown. Amid the gold, textile and souvenir shops you’ll find some of the city’s best eating establishments, such as Hua Seng Hong, where you can savor a dim sum lunch with roasted pork buns and spicy khao mu daeng, red pork with rice.

Before heading back to your hotel to freshen up for your Chao Phraya River sunset dinner cruise aboard the Grand Pearl, make a quick stop at the Wat Po Thai Traditional Medical School for a rejuvenating traditional Thai massage.

Bangkok’s sheer size and sensory overload can be overwhelming to first-time visitors, so don’t try to do too much with your day off. Better still, plan on staying a few extra days.