Almost everyone knows Atlanta. By some accounts, Hartsfield International Airport (ATL) is the busiest in the world processing more passengers annually than even Chicago O’Hare. What business traveler hasn’t flown through here at least a dozen times? We’ve all seen Gone With the Wind and Atlanta-based CNN is an information staple for jet-lagged road warriors around the world.

But even frequent visitors may never have reached the soul of the city — never found themselves lost at the intersection of Peachtree and Peachtree in this capital of the New South with a map so useless it can only have been made for a rental car company that charges by the mile. Many of us have never seen the real Atlanta.

The best way to get to know Atlanta is to start at the top. The Westin Peachtree Plaza is the tallest hotel in the hemisphere — a handy landmark when the map says, “You can’t get there from here.” Its revolving restaurant gives a great view of the city including such downtown attractions as Centennial Olympic Park, where Atlanta welcomed the world in 1996. There’s the CNN Center, broadcasting 24-hour information across the globe. The 45-minute tour is time well spent, documenting the revolutionary channel that, for better or worse, created the nonstop news cycle. Off in the distance, there’s Turner Field. Built as Centennial Olympic Stadium, its 85,000 seats are now the home of playoff perennials the Atlanta Braves. Far on the horizon are the rugged contours of Stone Mountain, the world’s largest granite formation.

Seen in full 360-degree grandeur, it’s quickly clear that the sprawling metropolis, home to corporations such as Coca-Cola, Georgia-Pacific, Delta Air Lines, SunTrust and UPS, is also a patchwork of neighborhoods, stitched together on a lush green background.

Eventually, it’s time to head back to earth. At street level, stay downtown to explore the King Historic District, where the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. rewrote American history, putting the civil rights movement on the map. The 70-acre Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Site and Preservation District, which includes the Sweet Auburn Historic District, pays tribute to the slain leader’s legacy. The area includes King’s birth home and the site where he was laid to rest after his assassination in 1968. The congregation at Ebenezer Baptist Church, where King was raised and later preached, gives visitors a warm welcome. After church — or any time — the nearby Thumb’s Up Diner welcomes hungry patrons with heaping platters of some of Atlanta’s best breakfast specialties. (Try the cheese grits.)

Walk off breakfast at one of Atlanta’s newest attractions. Georgia Aquarium opened in 2005, a gift to the city from Home Depot mogul Bernie Marcus and his wife, Billi. The world’s largest aquarium contains 8 million gallons of fresh and marine water, and is home to more than 100,000 fish representing 500 species from around the world. The technology is state of the art, making it a model for aquariums of tomorrow.

After seeing the future, head back in time. One hundred years before Atlanta struggled with civil rights, it grappled with the Civil War. The only American city destroyed in battle, Atlanta was burned to the ground in 1864 by Sherman’s army on his famous “march to the sea.” When the flames died down, more than 70 percent of Atlanta was in ashes. Grant Park’s Cyclorama renders the battle in 360-degrees of eerie realism.

Less cinematic, but no less informative, is the Atlanta History Center, where artifacts and exhibits document life in the region from its settlement by Europeans in the early 1800s to the present day. After touring the center, have lunch at the Swann Coach House, on the Center’s manicured grounds. This picturesque restaurant caters to belles of all ages. The chicken salad and cheese straws are a “don’t miss” for the ladies-who-lunch set, but gentlemen and children will be charmed as well.

Speaking of belles, no tour of Atlanta would be complete without a visit to the home of the author who created the city’s most famous fictional character, Scarlett O’Hara. The Margaret Mitchell House & Museum honors the writer whose novel Gone With the Wind (and its subsequent movie) captured the nation’s imagination in the late 1930s. Mitchell’s sweeping saga of the South’s destruction and reconstruction are covered, along with interesting (and little-known) details about her life as a journalist and her strong support for civil rights. The theater where the movie premiered in 1939 fell victim to fire, but the elegant Georgian Terrace Hotel is as grand as it was when it played host to the film’s stars. Across the street, the grande dame Fox Theatre still dazzles with Ottoman-inspired opulence and is a popular venue for the performing arts. Atlanta is also home to some of the hottest restaurants in the Southeast, offering culinary delights from sweet tea to sushi. And the soul food? Heavenly. Southern specialties abound, from the humble steam table specialties at places like Ms. Owens Family Soul Food to the haute hillbilly of such newcomers as South City Kitchen.

When they need to work off that cornbread and catfish, Atlantans go out and dance. Nightlife is never far away anywhere in Atlanta, from upscale clubs in Virginia-Highlands and Buckhead to late-night hip-hop spots in funky Five Points, Atlanta’s answer to Greenwich Village. Suckers for saxophone and snare will find that Churchill Grounds fits the bill perfectly. Adjacent to the Fox, live jazz wails here six nights a week. (Don’t miss the local improv sessions on Tuesdays.)

For those who’d rather watch athletes than musicians, no problem. In addition to “America’s Team,” the Atlanta Braves, the city plays more than baseball. The Falcons, Hawks, Thrashers and Silverbacks wow the Big Peach with men’s football, basketball, hockey and soccer, respectively. Ladies get into the act, too. The Atlanta Beat debuted in 2002, as part of the Women’s United Soccer Association. Atlanta’s lush golf courses are often the scene of tournaments for both men and women.

Cultural attractions also take a place of pride in Atlanta. The High Museum is world-class in every way, contributing to Atlanta’s reputation as the “cultural capital of the South.” In addition to a revolving schedule of can’t-miss special exhibitions, the museum’s permanent collection includes masterpieces by Cassatt, O’Keefe and Pisarro. The museum is part of the Woodruff Arts Center, whose urban campus also contains the Alliance Theatre Company, Atlanta College of Arts, Atlanta Symphony Orchestra and the 14th Street Playhouse.

The Fernbank Science Center and Fernbank Museum of Natural History provide hands-on educational activities as well as exhibits that document Georgia and the world through geology, astronomy and other natural sciences. Full-size dinosaur skeletons stand guard on the fossil-strewn marble floors, while the planetarium provides glimpses into the universe. Both institutions provide hours of fun for all ages.

For fun that’s a little more frivolous, Atlanta has that, too. Marvel at the marionettes at the Center for Puppetry Arts, or scream your way through a roller-coaster ride at Six Flags Over Georgia. Count the many flavors of Coca-Cola at the World of Coca-Cola. Sated on soft drinks? Head below the earth to Underground Atlanta for some serious shopping, restaurants and bars.

If, like me, you still find yourself turned around after exploring the city, take comfort in the fact that from top to bottom, in any direction, Atlanta has plenty to offer.

LODGING

GLENN HOTEL

South Beach sexy meets Southern charm at The Glenn, Atlanta’s newest boutique offering. Located in the heart of downtown at the corner of Spring and Marietta streets, the 1923 building has been completely renovated to house 110 luxurious guestrooms. $$$$
THE GLENN HOTEL
110 Marietta St. N.W.
tel 404 521 2250, fax 404 469 0591
www.glennhotel.com

TWELVE HOTEL & RESIDENCES

Business travelers will love the chic, contemporary decor of this brand-new hotel in the heart of the Atlantic Station development. Its midtown-Atlanta setting gives guests a sophisticated urban experience. There are 101 one- and two-bedroom suites featuring separate living, sleeping and kitchen areas. $$$
TWELVE HOTEL & RESIDENCES
Atlantic Station
361 17th St.
tel 404 961 1212, fax 404 961 1221
www.twelvehotels.com

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ATLANTA

Classics never rest on their laurels. The Four Seasons keeps things fresh with an $8.5 million renovation at this midtown property. Flawless service and large, luxurious rooms make this a favorite with both business and leisure travelers. $$$$
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL ATLANTA
75 14th St.
tel 404 881 9898, fax 404 873 4692
www.fourseasons.com

DINING

RATHBUN’S

Chef Kevin Rathbun’s concept of modern American cuisine has collected awards from Bon Appetit,Travel + Leisure and Esquire. Experience reinvented Southern delicacies such as sea scallops on country ham grits and braised brisket with poblano quesadillas in an industrial-meets-modern decor. $$$$
RATHBUN’S
112 Krog St., Suite R
tel 404 524 8280, fax 404 524 8580
www.rathbunsrestaurant.com

TAURUS

Taurus is a new American chophouse with a 1950s club feel. Chef Gary Mennie, former executive chef of the popular Canoe, opened this restaurant in 2005 and prepares select meats, game and seafood roasted on the bone for more intense flavor. An elevated seating area creates the atmosphere of a bull-fighting arena and serves as the hallmark of his dining room. $$$
TAURUS
1745 Peachtree Road
tel 404 214 0641, fax 404 214 0646
www.taurusrestaurant.com

JOËL

This popular eatery features French-inspired cuisine with Asian and Mediterranean influences and award-winning desserts. Chef Joël Antunes hails from France, previously holding positions at world-class French restaurants. The menu offers sophisticated fare such as grilled turbot with artichokes and rhubarb tart with sorbet. The three-course $39 prix fixe menus change weekly. $$$
JOËL
3290 Northside Parkway
tel 404 233 3500

INFO TO GO

Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport is one of the world’s busiest, so there’s no problem getting nonstops from almost anywhere, on any carrier. Located just 10 miles south of downtown Atlanta, Hartsfield-Jackson airport is accessible via local Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority trains and buses, downtown and suburban shuttles and interstate highways. (www.amtrak.com) Amtrak service also is available.