In the intricate patchwork of Burgundy’s vineyards, few Premier Cru properties are held in higher esteem than Beaune Clos des Mouches. Its 62 acres are divided among more than 20 owners, many of whom preside over less than an acre. The largest single owner, with nearly 32 acres, is Maison Joseph Drouhin, the highly respected Burgundian négociant that bought its Clos des Mouches property in 1918. At its prime south/southeastern exposure in clay and limestone soil, Drouhin produces pinot noir grapes for its red Clos des Mouches and chardonnay grapes for its white Clos des Mouches.
So much does Drouhin respect the reputation of this vineyard that it did not release a Clos des Mouches red 2004. Damaged by hail, the delicate pinot noir grapes made a wine that “did not match our standards,” said Frédéric Drouhin, president of Maison Joseph Drouhin.
But the heartier chardonnay grape did weather the storm, so the 2004 white version ($70) is on retailers’ shelves — a bright, flavorful wine the Drouhins suggest we drink early. There is a superb 2002 Clos des Mouches white ($91) that melds a hint of citrus, a judicious bit of oak, richness and generosity, and promises a long life. Speaking of long life, the 14-year-old white 1992 has aged magnificently, becoming a rich, golden, almost voluptuous wine. Priceless, if you can find it.
In the atypically hot 2003 vintage, Clos de Mouches red developed a beautiful darker-than-usual color, intense berry nose, a fruitiness and a hint of vanilla ($76). In contrast, the 2002 red ($78) is all elegance and balance and delicacy with underlying spicy flavors. And if you can find a bottle of the 1990, you will have a wine that is full, round, also spicy and simply gorgeous. Like its 1992 white sister, it is priceless.
The name Clos des Mouches dates to the Middle Ages when mouches meant honey bees (today, mouches means flies) and bees were kept on the hillside that is now the vineyard. Clos means enclosure. By any name, however, Clos des Mouches means fine Burgundy wine, the pride of Maison Drouhin and the pleasure of all who drink it.
Read This Next
November 2006 Cover
2006 / November 2006
Nov 1, 2006Introducing
FX Excursions
FX Excursions offers the chance for once-in-a-lifetime experiences in destinations around the world.
#globility
Insta FeedDaily
Mar 30, 2023A New Type of Art Experience: Rotterdam’s Depot Boijman’s Van Beuningen Opens
A little more a year ago, Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen, designed by architectural firm MVRDV, opened to the public in Rotterdam. At Depot, everything revolves around the interaction between the visitors and more than 151,000 works stored in various areas of the unique building.
Sponsored Content
Exclusive Savings: Cruise Along the Danube River with Global Traveler
Exclusive Sailing with Global Traveler
Daily
Mar 29, 20234 Spring Hotel Openings
With the start of spring, travelers have their choice of new design-centric boutique properties opening in the coming months. Check out these properties for travel inspiration.
eFlyer Reviews
Mar 29, 2023Elk Cove Inn & Spa Review
Mendocino County is a self-contained universe of effortless, California-centric joy enveloped within the Redwood Forest National and State Parks, the rocky Pacific Coast and several prime wine production areas like Anderson Valley. If Highway 1 and Route 128 are the ribbons holding this package together, Elk Cove Inn & Spa can be considered the bow. Mendocino Coast’s first vacation destination, established in 1968, is an ideal 16-room gateway to the destination.
eFlyer News
Mar 29, 2023YOTEL to Open YOTELPAD London Stratford in Late 2023
YOTEL recently announced plans to open YOTELPAD London Stratford at the end of this year, making it the seventh YOTEL property in the United Kingdom and third in London, joining YOTEL London City and YOTEL London Shoreditch. YOTEL currently features properties in the United States and United Kingdom, with hotels in Boston, New York, San Francisco and, more recently, Washington, D.C.
Last-Minute Spring Deals from SIXT
eFlyer Deals
Mar 29, 2023Daily
Mar 29, 2023Get in the Spirit for the Coronation with These 4 Red Savannah Itineraries
This May, London celebrates as King Charles III will officially be crowned in the coronation. To help travelers get into the royal spirit, Red Savannah recently introduced a variety of itineraries and destinations in the United Kingdom, including the homes of monarchs and historical figures, castles and gardens.
Daily
Mar 29, 2023Set Sail on a California River Cruise with American Cruise Lines
Love small-ship cruising and the California coast? You’re in luck: American Cruise Lines offers an eight-day San Francisco Bay excursion, taking in some of the best wine country in the United States. The itinerary for American Jazz — one of 10 new riverboats in American Cruise Lines fleet — includes ports in San Francisco, Stockton, Sacramento and Vallejo. Sailing time takes in San Francisco Bay, San Pablo Bay and the Napa and San Joaquin rivers. American Jazz reaches the California Coast following a repositioning journey from Mississippi, including a transit through the Panama Canal.
ShareThis