In the busy harbor of Al-Wakrah, Qatar, the skipper of dhow No. 3564 invited me aboard. A wobbly wooden plank spanned the distance between the concrete quay and the deck. I crossed the gap with my arms outstretched for balance.

“You are most welcome,” said the skipper, grabbing hold of my arm just as I felt myself in danger of toppling into the oily water that slopped around the boat’s hull.

I was about to thank him, but at that instant his cell phone rang and he soon was wrapped up in an extremely heated argument with the caller. Meanwhile, I explored the boat, and discovered that it was not quite what I had expected it to be. On first view, the dozens of moored dhows in Al-Wakrah harbor had appeared timeless; a window on a scene from any date in the last 2,000 years. But close up, I found that this was not a dhow in the traditional sense. It had no sail, was made of fiberglass rather than wood, and the deck vibrated to the lazy rhythm of the idling engine.

From the boat’s prow, I looked across at the town of Al-Wakrah, and it too presented a face that was deceptively medieval. Through the mist of early morning, I could make out the shapes of old mosques and flat-roofed buildings. It seemed timeless, though as with the dhows, the modern world is transforming Al-Wakrah.

I had traveled by car from Doha, Qatar’s capital; a 10-mile journey that had taken 20 minutes. Along the way, the road had bisected Doha’s current international airport, and the brand new one, which will open in 2009 at a cost of $5.5 billion. Sleepy Al-Wakrah, situated immediately south of the vast new airport complex, is poised to benefit.

“Al-Wakrah is the same as Doha 20 or 30 years ago,” said my driver as we entered this unassuming town of 26,000 people.

Anyone who predicted Doha’s dramatic transformation from low-rise backwater to 21st century metropolis probably reaped an incalculable fortune. Now the bets are on for Al-Wakrah.

As we drove toward the harbor — which has always been the town’s epicenter and is currently in the process of a $12 million upgrade — we negotiated narrow alleys between abandoned tumbledown houses. Some of the houses are being restored, though most are beyond rescue. They had been the homes of the Hadar — Bedouins who settled in towns instead of following the traditionally nomadic paths of their fellow tribesmen.

The Hadar of Al-Wakrah were never truly settled. From here, each January, many of them would set sail in their dhows, catching the trade winds that would take them around the Arabian peninsula and sometimes as far as the east coast of Africa. In July, when the prevailing winds switched direction, they would sail back home loaded with exotic spices, metals and ivory. Others would stay closer to Qatari shores, making a living from pearl diving and fishing. The fishing continues today, but it is not just the dhows that have changed with the times. The men aboard the dhows represent a break in the lineage of Al-Wakrah’s fishermen, for they are no longer Hadar. Rather, they are migrant workers from India and Bangladesh.

The skipper of dhow No. 3564, who was from distant Dhaka, finally ended his phone call. He rejoined me, shaking his head.

“This is a bad day. Very bad. Perhaps we will not even leave port.”

I directed my untrained eye beyond the harbor. The Arabian Gulf appeared to be tranquil enough, and the mist was beginning to lift. The conditions seemed perfect for a fishing expedition.

“The weather is not the problem,” he said. “It is the ice.”

He explained that ice is an essential commodity for commercial fishermen in the Arabian Gulf. It is used to keep the fish refrigerated in the hold, enabling the dhow to stay out at sea for two or three days. But the previous week, bacteria had been found in the ice blocks used by the Al-Wakrah boats, and consequently the ice-making factories throughout Qatar had been closed by government decree.

“We must now buy our ice from Saudi Arabia,” the skipper complained. “Normally we pay $2 for each block. The imported ice costs more than double. It is too expensive. I am telling the hotel that buys my fish that they must pay more, but they say the price is fixed.”

Behind us, the skipper’s men were starting to carry the expensive Saudi ice across the gangplank onto the dhow. The skipper was now resigned to absorbing the costs himself. I disembarked to enable them to make the final preparations for the voyage.

Driving away, I pondered the problems of living in this harsh desert environment, and the incongruity of importing ice from Saudi Arabia. On the northern outskirts of Al-Wakrah, there was another reminder of the underlying challenges of life here. We passed the Ras Abu Funtas electricity and water plant. Aside from generating electricity for the whole country, this huge complex is also one of the most important desalination stations, converting more than 90 million gallons of seawater into freshwater each day.

I suspected that the skipper took this daily miracle for granted. Qatar’s booming economy, fueled by lucrative reserves of gas and oil, has ensured a constant supply of drinking water and even ice — imported, if necessary — in a land that is parched and often ferociously hot.

Far to our right, beyond the desalination plant, several dhows were heading out to sea. Perhaps 3564 was among them. We pulled over and I stepped out to view them through binoculars. By now, the air was completely clear, and our surroundings shimmered in a heat haze. I looked back at Al-Wakrah, which was warped in mirage. The minarets of its mosques were distorted, and appeared as broad and as tall as skyscrapers.

I returned to the air-conditioned sanctuary of the car, and wondered what the future holds for this ancient fishing port. Look at this view in 10 years time and chances are the highrise skyline will be no mirage.

Entry Requirements

U.S. citizens must have a valid passport and an entry visa, which can be obtained on arrival at Doha International Airport (DOH). A single-entry visa costs $16, payable by credit card only, and is valid for 21 days. For a longer stay, apply for a visa through the Embassy of Qatar in Washington before your trip.

More Information

Embassy of the State of Qatar
2555 M St., N.W.
Washington, D.C.
20037-1305
tel 202 274 1603